ahardb0dy Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Rob, I'm sure the Rebuilt starters that Nissan sells are a much better quality than the overseas parts but do you see a higher return rate with the OEM rebuilts compared to the original OEM starters? Or no difference in how long the rebuilts last? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Rob, I'm sure the Rebuilt starters that Nissan sells are a much better quality than the overseas parts but do you see a higher return rate with the OEM rebuilts compared to the original OEM starters? Or no difference in how long the rebuilts last? I can honestly say no difference whatsoever in the return/warranty rate. I cannot even remember the last time we had to warranty a reman alternator/starter/distributor....if ever. The last reman Nissan starter we sent back as a core to Nissan on that I can remember was off a Quest van and had been on it since like 1996 or 1998 and that was about a year ago. From personal experience, I have a rebuilt Nissan one on my hardbody and it has been on for 3 years now after the original one died. The one on the Pathy is 5 years old and still turning over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Sounds like a good deal ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 I do buy USA whenever possible, and I do believe in getting what you pay for! Once I have the funds, I will be getting a starter from you, Rob! FYI Rob, I replaced the starter myself last time.... I know the process will go quicker this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 it always does the second, third time, etc LOL!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 I only had to replace my starter because I freaking dropped it when I removed the tranny for the RMS replacement, and screwed it up. The truck was on a lift so it was quite the drop. It's not hard at all with a body lift! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 either is changing the oil filter with the body lift ! back on topic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 it always does the second, third time, etc LOL!! OMG noooooooooooooooo!!!! LoL I'm getting the OEM when it's in the budget (So far, starter is playing nice) -so I don't become a supreme expert starter installer BTW, I tried the silocne spray on the window -it didn't want to go back up!! (the original issue to the passenger window not working was resolved with duct tape to make sure the connector in the door panel wouldn't come loose every again ... I tugged on the tibit of window that was peering from above the door, and it decided to move -just as slowly as before I thought I'd let it sit overnight and try again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 You may need to pull the regulator/motor and clean the motor (inside) worth a try before having to replace it. Did you try to roll the window down from the drivers side window switch? They are known to fail, if the window that doesn't want to play nice is the pass side try the pass. switch to see if it works. Make sure to spray the windshield rubber so the silicone runs down and lubes the rubber inside the door, be careful on the ground because some will probably drain out the bottom of the door so watch you don't slip on it. Another tip if you need to pull the regulator/motor assembly, after removing the door panel and the plastic barrier, roll the window down far enough to get to the 2 10mm bolts that hold the plastic clips that are glued to the glass to the regulator, after the 2 bolts are out, raise the glass all the way and use wooden wedges between the glass and inside weather stripping to hold the glass in the fully closed position, Than it is just a matter of removing the regulator upper and lower bolts and three bolts for the motor, and un pluging the plug that goes to the motor, I have pics: the two bolts that hold the glass to the regulator: regulator mounting bolts: ok, sorry back on topic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Ok - this thread caught my eye since my starter is grinding horribly with increasing frequency..... and has almost not turned over a few times lately. My concern is that there may be damage to the flywheel and a few teeth may have been mangled. I don't remember from the last time I changed it out but does anyone know if there is a flywheel inspection window where one can have a look. Or is the access through the starter - gear hole the only way to see in ? For Rob -do we pay shipping both ways ? ( Starter and core ) Is there any way to do this where I pay you and pick it up at local dealer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 You may be able to see more of the flywheel if you remove the starter bracket that mounts to the block. Its only 2 bolts so not hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I don't think there is a core when you buy from the dealer even though they are remanufactured, would have to double check with Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 you might try silicone on the window track, also on the starter if you have a 5 speed the problem could be in the starter interlock relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 You may be able to see more of the flywheel if you remove the starter bracket that mounts to the block. Its only 2 bolts so not hard. Ok , thanks adamzan. It's really grinding loud when I turn the key and I've replaced it a couple times over the years so I'm starting to wonder if a damaged flywheel is chewing up the starter gear or if its just crappy starters + all the oil from the filter running down at each oil change. Gotta get this done before winter ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I don't think there is a core when you buy from the dealer even though they are remanufactured, would have to double check with Rob. Oh, ok. I saw that Rob listed a core charge of $60 so I assumed he would refund that if you sent the core. I check with him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 For Rob -do we pay shipping both ways ? ( Starter and core )Is there any way to do this where I pay you and pick it up at local dealer ? Unfortunately yes, the buyer pays to ship cores (and part warranty claims) that is how Nissan has it worded in the paperworks, etc. but at least you dont pay tax. All the dealers are independent of each other so they would not do that for you. You may be able to talk them into offering the same price I give, never hurts to ask, worse they can say is no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I don't think there is a core when you buy from the dealer even though they are remanufactured, would have to double check with Rob. It depends on the part, some have a core charge that is billed up front and refunded back when the core is returned, some parts do not have a core charge at all. Please note, to get the core refunded it must be a Nissan part returned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PamPoovey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 You may need to pull the regulator/motor ....... ok, sorry back on topic I'm extremely grateful for the info!!! I did try the silicone spray -there seemed to be an improvement, but then it got slow again. Maybe I didn't use enough? Maybe I didn't spray it in all the right places? I appreciate the pics, that may be a future project of mine. Work is just really wearing me out -I just want to veg when I get home... especially now that I know I need to replace the ball joints (I looked at the steps on that wonderful website you provided earlier in this thread) -sucks ruining expensive tyres...especially when you're already broke and behind on inportant bills.... like rent... but the right tyre won't hold much longer driving 50 miles a day. Blech. With the starter (that has yet to be replaced) sometimes, just holding the key in place, of course the clutch all the way down -sometimes after 20 seconds of holding that position, the truck will start up. Putting it in reverse doesn't have an effect, like one stated earlier... soooo looking forward to being caught up financially... I love my truck & I just want it to be like it was Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Oh, ok. I saw that Rob listed a core charge of $60 so I assumed he would refund that if you sent the core. I check with him Yes, that would be correct! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 I don't think there is a core when you buy from the dealer even though they are remanufactured, would have to double check with Rob. It just depends on the part and what Nissan wants to to that month. Most reman units from Nissan have a core charge, but not all. Even some new units have a core charge so they can build up stock to start making remans. Catalytic converters also have core charges ($140!)now so Nissan can recycle them. Many transmissions and engiens have core charges and we also have some transmission valve bodies and throttle bodies with core charges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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