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Everything posted by PamPoovey

  1. I managed to squeeze my man-hands from above with the Liquid Wrench and git r done! Woot woo! I damaged the 27 year old air duct attempting to remove it. It was cracked, but that's not where it broke hahaha. I'm such a Pam Poovey! I poured out the old oil and got about 3oz out of that. I saw a video where the bloke recommended replacing the drier every time you replace the compressor. Is that a good rule of thumb? The drier is probably 18yrs old. Any other recommendations? Yes, I'll put in all new belts.
  2. Hopefully someone can guide me. I am in the process of replacing the a/c compressor and the bolts underneath, are not budging, so far. I am just using extender bars to reach the bolts from underneath. I cannot reach both bolts with liquid wrench due to typical rice burner stuff being in the way. Is accessing these bolts on a creeper my best bet or is there another angle I haven't figured out that would be better? Lastly, any recommendations on how much lubricant to put in it? I know the housing says 6oz but concerned about residual oil in the system and not wanting to be "over" on the a/c oil. Thanks in advance!
  3. Thank you for the heads up. I expect many swear words in my future! And maybe, some tears.
  4. Thank you for writing all that! I am going to attempt it tomorrow, since I had jinxed myself and the alternator died today.
  5. I wanted to provide an update, and hopefully, I don't jinx myself.... I got a new USB charger, still had the code. I bought an alternator on 4/21, but then hurt my hand at work, so I decided to put off replacing the alternator for when my hand is usable -and I haven't had the code since.
  6. Thank you for the info?. I do have a new one on the way, coincidentally.
  7. Thank you bot! I did learn a lot? but, so far, what I've found is my USB car charger/ volt meter -the phallic like connector part, was pushed inside the shell, and upon correction of that, I don't receive the brake / battery dashboard message. Weird, huh? I didn't think much of it back in Feb when it did that, until I found the same challenge recently -for the numbers would not always register or the USB charger work. So um weird?
  8. Over a month ago, the battery and brake light remained on the dashboard after the other lights go off after the start. After a few minutes of driving, the lights would go off. I was working at AutoZone at the time, and their tester told me the alternator is fine. It that that no more than 3 times that week, same thing, would go off after a few minutes of driving. It did it again today, again, after a few minutes of driving, the lights go off. I made my destination, and when it was time to leave, it started with no warning lights. I did notice yesterday and today, everything starts up just fine, that the engine ran quieter and shifted up to it's normal sound. I don't know if this plays into it, but a co-worker who claimed he could replace the timing valve cover gaskets, well, he did a sloppy af job. When the lights originally started taunting me that first time, I ended up finding a screw driver that wasn't mine, "resting" against the power steering pump. The lights stopped coming on after that...until now. If it is the alternator, any tips on replacing it? I know it's at the bottom -I had just replaced the starter last week, and whew hoo that was fun! ? Thanks in advance!!!! You guys rock!!!!
  9. I get dashboard lights and I hear the "click" (is that the starter?) Nothing else. I think I hear the fuel pump whirl noise, I just never thought that's what that sound is... In January, I had someone I was led to believe knows car stuff, replace the timing valve cover gasket. He did a very sloppy job like leaving things hanging that obviously shouldn't be. I found a hose clamp lower on the hose like one does, when they temp going to disconnect a hose (which I suspect why it had thrown the P1130 code). About 2wks ago, the battery / brake light would randomly stay on when it did start, but would go off in minutes. I found a flathead screw driver resting against the power steering pump. The vehicle has behaved since. Now, 2 wks have passed, I wanted to go home from work, and it was dashboards lights only. After at around 10 attempts to start, it finally started. I work at Autozone, had it tested when it first did the brake/ battery light so the battery, starter, and alternator came back as good. There's an aftermarket alarm, that was installed in 2016.
  10. My friend swore it was the fan clutch and after I replaced the fan clutch, the noise still exist. Then it became cold here, so I haven't messed with it. I may try this weekend. Sorry to keep you waiting. I thought squealing was loose belt related? Mine doesn't squeal, more of a bearing failing noise. Just so much runs off one belt lol
  11. Thank you all, you're all very kind and encouraging! Especially Donuthands, who has now made me hungry! -what's your favourite donut? Mine is apple fritter. That's really good to know that it can be done without the entire compressor price! This weekend, I should be able to resolve it.
  12. Thank you all for all your suggestions and time! I'm going to take a crack at things by New Years weekend.
  13. I still own both, actually? I don't know what I am doing with the a/c, but was hoping to find someone who knew for sure if the a/c bearing could be replaced without replacing the entire compressor.
  14. Belts were replaced 4yrs ago when I bought it. The noise is only when it's winter weather cold out. I've replaced the belt tensioner hoping for an easy fix, and the noise persist. The noise is coming from the a/c side. Thank you for the idea, though!
  15. Is it possible to replace just the bearing in the a/c for my 02 Pathfinder? Or does the entire compressor need to be replaced? The squeal only goes on when it's cold out, and I've owned this R50 for 4yrs now...with that squeal...or can it just be greased? The a/c works fine. Sorry if this has been asked, I tried the search, and just got other results.
  16. I bought my 02 in 2016, and the clutch sticks when it's 80º or higher outside. I am guessing something that may be deteriorated rubber is relaxing too much when it gets to a certain temperature. Does a brand matter? I would like something that is going to truly last. I saw on a Nissan part's site about a Nabco brand. I've also read about a NAPA/ ALTROM brand. I don't want any made in China crap. Any brands you recommend and how long has it been going strong? Thanks in advance!
  17. I have the same issue with the P1145 / intake valve timing solenoid circuit bank 2 not clearing. I got one from Amazon, and got one from pick-a-part and the engine light would stay clear if I don't turn off the engine. The next time I drive, the engine light returns. The parts are not interchangeable. I've driven for weeks with this issue. Does anyone know how to permanently resolve it? I change the oil every three month with high mileage oil filter and semi synthetic. I have the faulty engine that burns oil, so with my typical driving, I have to put in a quart a week. Any other information you need to help me resolve this, I am all ears. Thanks in advance.
  18. Thank you very much! I appreciate the time and effort you placed into trying to help me. I'll look into it.
  19. I appreciate you getting back to me. I believe the leak in the pic is unrelated. During warmer weather, more like summer weather, the clutch tends to stick. Having finally found this https://photos.app.goo.gl/VraBvWvFQdnB5upE6 I am I am wondering if there is an O-ring or a rubber washer that may need replacing which is why there is the wetness as seen in the original posting???
  20. I know it's not easy to figure out what it is. There's framing in the way, making it harder to get a proper picture. I appreciate the info on the Master Cylinder. I will not be able to try that for a few days. Does that rule apply to all Pathy's? You mentioned your 93 & 95 and this issue is on my 02. The Master Cylinder does not look wet anywhere on the outside though. I will have another look when I can. In the first picture, you see it's bolted on either side and then it has that bar coming from it. The second pic is one of the bolts and the center area between the two bolts in the first picture. Thanks for chiming in. Even a guess helps with the stress.
  21. In my 02 Pathy: I noticed this as a slight wetness some months back when I didn't have the right tools, and then snow came. The past few weeks, I'm needing to refill the Master Cylinder about every week, so I wonder if it's related. Area is located under the gear shift and whatever it is, it's bolted to the side of the transmission. I am sorry I couldn't get better pictures of the area. There's like a rubber sleeve over it. The area is definitely increased in greasiness since last I had looked. Thank you in advance. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5bGZEnEmj8LRSEgJ9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/4q5wqZKzUiWn2LmEA Repair manual area narrowed down: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Gi6oeGhgzzSuqRK9 Sorry for the links, I can't seem to get the images to be inserted properly.
  22. thanks for trying to make me feel less archaic!

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