PamPoovey

Quite weird!! Thanks! You're THE best!!! Next time, I'll try to grow taller

Let's start with your guidance of #52 fuse 7.5 -grabbed a cinder block so I can get a better view with me being height challenge and all -the diagram says there should be a fuse there, there are receiving connectors there, but there is no fuse! oooooohk! So i temp borrow the fuse from alt, also 7.5 and test the horn -it's a cheap miracle! How did this happen? I know I had worked in a place that I was not everyone's favourite, but not an area where I would panic if I forgot to lock my vehicle, so maybe then? No answers. I feel gey and retarded. Such a cheap remedy! I did check fuses before, but I just didn't take a headcount to what the cover says should be. I got the clock spring as a genuine Nissan part from UAE for it was the cheapest, so obviously, my college education was further proof that sometimes, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I truly appreciate you taking the time to research and guide me. That first clue of yours of #52 is what caused me to pay closer attention, your efforts did truly benefit me! Yes, the cruise control is also back on the menu. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! God bless you!

Thank you so much for taking the time to not only research, but explain it in a way that isn't complicated! I'll report back once I am able to put your words into action. I just wanted you to know your kindness is greatly appreciated.

02 manual Pathy, owned since 2016. Horn hasn't worked since maybe Nov? Sorry, i live in area where you can go months without using a horn, so I do not know when the problem began. I mostly have a short commute, so Nov is the first I noticed cruise wasn't working. I can turn the cruise control on and that is it. Horn isn't working at the same time. When I had the factory radio replaced, I did not pay for the adapter so the steering wheels due to budget restrictions at the time. I have swapped relays, put in new fuses (easiest fix), replaced the clock spring. What else are both Cruise and Horn interwind with? I checked to make sure the tabs on the clutch and gas pedals for the ASCD switch weren't broken. The ASCD click when I push on them. I don't see any issues with the horns themselves (but I didn't remove them. If I have more time tomorrow, I can try and figure out how to check if there is juice flow). It's obvious to me whatever is wrong, they are connected. So what else can I check that uses cruise and horn or do you think if there is a malfunction with one, it takes out the other, like the old style Christmas lights where the hole thing doesn't work until you find the dead lightbulb? Thanks in advance!!!

The sparks was certainly a celebration! I think I may of actually had a beer that night! lol The pedal is stronger than ever -quite impressive! Thank you for asking! Zero damper is the way to go! Thank y'all so much for your support! It makes ALL the difference!!!!!!

Vice grips got involved and still couldn't tackle it That Dremel has saved me countless times Thank you!!!!

I should had just cut the hydraulic lines (using a Dremel) within the first 20minutes since neither bolt would budge. In the end, I end up sending that Nissan bypass part that was $20 and used this under $5 one (3/16 brass compression union) from Autozone, so the path didn't go as planned:

Thank you so very much! You are such a blessing, Slartibartfast!!!! I'll take the less hassle path. As a dump truck driver, I never know how much free time I'll have to spare.

So it appears the clutch damper is leaking in my 95 and I am unable to locate the part 3066009G01 anywhere. I have found this one for the pickup version on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/235335340912 and I turn to you guys for guidance. We filled up the master on Friday evening, vehicle sat all weekend, and Sunday evening, the master is barely above minimum. Slave was replaced 2 weeks ago and the wetness traces back to the damper. What are my options? Is there a way to rebuild it? https://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=373 Or this possible option? https://datnissparts.com/brake-line-straight-thru-fitting-fits-many-datsuns-nissans-also-for-clutch-damper-delete-02463-64000/ Thank you amazing chaps in advance!!!

It is weird! There was a slight difference in the one from Amazon & the one it came with. For instance, the Amazon one only had one bleeder hole in the thread area & it was slighty poinntier. Slartibartfast, the Nissan from where it came, I got a special email with it; the chap thanked me for keeping a manual transmon the road. Thank you for your help!!! I might had just returned this slave without your guidance.

Thank you for all your advice! Right, I made sure I had a clear view of the valve and the banjo bolt. My son too the air compressor air gun attachment to the slave clutch cylinder. I also got an assortment of bleeder screws from Amazon and that resolved the issue. I don't know which one resolved the issue but grateful my 95 is back on the road

Thank you for taking the time to write me a novel It sounds like user error but this is so basic.(Two 14mm bolts, 12mm hydraulic bolt, 8mm.nleeder valve tighten to close loosen to allow bleed). I replaced this slave last time about 9yrs ago and replaced the one on my 02 earlier this year. I am underneath and seeing just the bleeder valve leaking on all three. The screw comparison, I have previously done. I definitely need to figure out what is causing it: me or the part.

I have not found anyone with this exact topic, but googling has led me to a similar, but with calipers (for the two I found, they kept replacing the caliper until they got ones that didn't continuously bleed, going through around 4 of them before they got ones that didn't bleed). So I would love your opinion because this is bonkers! I have bought Nissan, which is not easy to find. The first one wouldn't stop bleeding from the valve. Second one, wouldn't stop bleeding from the valve. I tried a made in China one that was supposed to be made in Taiwan, wouldn't stop bleeding from the valve. It is two hours past my bed time, but this vehicle has been down going on three weeks now with trying to have a reliable part and having to track down a Nissan that actually has it in stock. Any of you think it's me and not the part, that's fine. I never intended to be this involved when it came to vehicle repairs. Is it the slave clutch? is it defective and I am having a bad string of luck? Is it the bleeder valve? Side note, i didn't want made in China because it would probably fail within a year.

After a long battle with the snap ring (I just haven't mastered the pliers, nor feel I ever will lol) Also, to find out after the fact, I never needed to mess with the snap-ring lmao I finally got off the related parts and scrubbed all the contacts with white vinegar. And this was after I couldn't remove anymore grime from the contacts The horn works!!!! I don't know if the cruise control does, for I am still waiting on a slave clutch cylinder to arrive. Thank y'all!!!!

I'll have to give it a ago this weekend, most likely. I don't think I got peanut butter in there for they do bounce back when I push of them, so maybe, I got some graham crackers or Cheezits on them? I have owned this Pathy since 99, so decades of food crumbs and road dust! Thank you for the guidance! It helps knowing where to start with disassembling it.

Temps were tolerable earlier in the day. Another win is that my neighbour's has a steering wheel puller. It's been years since I last looked at it. [](https://postimg.cc/XGpYDWSc) I am not having any luck in figuring out the part number as of yet. I appreciate all your help and support! And anything else you may be able to provide.

Thank you for the advice! I'll check back tomorrow and let you know -your kindness is greatly appreciated!!!

Thank you for your quick response! Mine is a 95 (I also have an 02, but that R50, has a working horn). I was struggling to remove the steering without one of those fancy tools, but I wonder if a hardware section in Lowe's, whatever, would have something. We're having an excessive heat warning for today, so I may not tackle it further until the temps cool off.

The worn down rods on the plates between the steering wheel and the shaft -does anyone happen to know a good replacing where to find it? I have yet to access them, but would love to get the horn working again. Thanks in advance!

Thank you!!! I wondered about that myself, just due to the age of the vehicle. This Pathy has spent 18yrs in Vegas, so rust isn't a dominant concern for the time being.

I am sorry, I've been meaning to update y'all but being a truck driver sucks sometimes... So I am lacking knowledge in the mechas department, so back in Jan, vehicle de ided to not run, but would start. I guessed because the fuel pump was last replaced in 2007. That turned out not to be the problem in Jan (it was the distributor whichnprobablynlasy replaced in 2009), so I hung onto the fuel pump. I decided to swap back to the old fuel pump because that was something I could try on my own. It started right up! POS Delphi, with a 30 day warranty. I found a made in Japan fuel pump in UAE : https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=1704241G03 -which just arrived yesterday, for back up purposes. Thank you all for your help and support!!!

Is it still perfect? I replaced the wheel bearings and set the locking screws torque spec and they keep coming loose, resulting in the wheel vibration. Seems like either I am missing some special trick or tighter is the way to go.

I just wanted to update, being a truck driver, in situations like this, I wish I had normal working hours... I was able to get the ECU and shake the bits out without having to remove the cover. I used a valve tool I had for the a/c when I had replaced the o-rings, to turn the ECU back into the non diagnostic position. I have swapped out the relay so far. Tomorrow, I hope to have time to swap out the fuel pump and see if the issue persist. Thank you so much for your help and words of encouragement!

This may be related to my other topic: Pathy on Saturday sounded like it ran out of fuel (but has half a tank). Sunday, I remembered about the ECU thanks to you fine people! I got the process started, the engine light went off, I went to turn the screw the opposite direction and that is when I discovered I broke it. Argh! Yesterday, was the first day I tried to start it since Saturday. The start up sounds like a kill switch or like the distributor needs replacing (it was replaced a few months back). Does the ECU create a sort of kill switch effect? The factory alarm has been unplugged for about two years and has no other alarm. Do i need to put the ECU "switch" in the original position in order for it to return to normalcy? If so, is there a way (after removing passenger seat) or do I need to replace the entire unit? Just something that popped in my head at 3am when I should had been sleeping. Thanks in advance!

Yay!!! I had similar issue once, but with a starter. And then, the next starter. Then, 6 months later, the starter again. I wish mine were to be that simple! I am worried about it being extensively complicated like fuel injectors (since they aren't easy access). The relay has to be ordered. Big surprise lol hopefully, it will ship tomorrow.