JJ331 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I've never really pushed the abilities of any of the 4x4s I've owned since they were my DDs. This one is for wheeling only. I've been told the IFS won't handle rocks. What are my limitations? We're going to Hidden Falls in Marble Falls, Texas for Labor Day weekend. The vids show some pretty gnarly stuff. I have enough sense not to try the stuff the buggies are on, but I'd like to see what I and the Pathy are able to handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Take it slow, crawl your way around and you should be okay. It's when you start charging around at speed that you will break steering components. You will wear them out faster than usual but you shouldnt break anything if you take it slow. I would still bring an extra idler arm, center link, and tie rods tho as spares...even junkyard ones just so u can still get it back home/ to the trailer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Pretty much what he said from what I understand. I'm not a WrokKrawler but as long as you go easy on the skinny pedal and don't let the front end hop or spin up and grab hard you should be ok. The above mentioned parts are a good idea, but tie rods would be number one from what I have seen. I keep an old set for good luck... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Like anything else, if you beat it hard enough, it will break. I never had issues till I tried to take on trails that required heavy modifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Thanks for the advice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJpathy Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Mine rockcrawls great (although I'm twin locked), but the clearance is a nightmare as you can't lift the IFS much. Another problem is when you are driving a hard section and the front end bounces in the air, the IFS tucks the wheels underneath the car and then lands on them at an awkward angle, not too good. Can't wait to SAS. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I found it was my centerlink that wore first before my tie rods surprisingly, but that is with 3+" of torsion bar crank and balljoint spacers/low pro bump stops. After the 2wd swap I haven't had any issues though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 />I keep an old set for good luck... B You never know when you're going to hit a curb in the mall parking lot! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Or just some redneck kid. I've run a lot of miles off road, just not in this truck. Some day you will have responsibilities and priorities and... Nah, you won't. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Should probably start a new thread, but here goes..... I knew the passenger side rotor was bad. Tried to push it, and ended up barely getting home yesterday. Took it to my buddy's house today to fix the brakes. Ends up both calipers are bad, and the passenger side bearing is about half missing. Truck didn't wobble or shimmy like you'd think it would and there were no strange noises I could hear. The bearing is frozen to the hub. Going to take some heat to get the bearing out so the hub will come off. Fun stuff.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) Apparently Autozone doesn't have the monopoly on morons that I thought. The lock washer was missing from the hub, allowing the bearing to eat itself. He ordered the wrong part, which naturally is only available from the dealer. Edited August 8, 2013 by JJ331 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I hate it when that happens (the wrong part, never had the other happen). I'm not sure where in Texas you are but check out Rob Lacy (alkorahil), he is a great source for factory parts and information and is in the D/FW area IIRC. Best prices as well... WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COMphone 1-866-742-0297 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I sensed a disturbance in the force..........so I jumped online to see what Precice1 was doing.. Tearing up the outer bearing and hub may have also damaged your axle and inner bearing. Take a good look at it all your compenents. You mentioned calipers in the rear so I assume you have rear disck brakes. 38164-31G00 SHAFT ASM, REAR AXLE $147.32 43232-42G10 SEAL-OIL, AXLE, REAR, OUTER $6.03 43070-01G00 SPACER, AXLE, REAR $3.05 43082-42G00 CAGE, AXLE, REAR $37.22 43085-42G00 SEAL-O RING, REAR $4.71 43210-42G10 BEARING, AXLE, REAR $66.31 43064-R9000 WASHER, LOCK, OUTER $2.62 43069-R9000 WASHER, LOCK, INNER $1.71 43231-42G00 NUT-LOCK, AXLE, INNER $12.39 43252-VW000 SEAL-OIL, AXLE, INNER $6.03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 I guess I wasn't clear. It was the front end. The half shaft survived, unlike the hub. I got a hub from the junkyard. Has both bearings, but the grease is milky looking, so we'll replace them. Turns out there are 12 junkyards on N. Shepherd in Houston. Still waiting on the lock washer to come in. Glad to know there is a source for parts, even if I have to go to DFW. We have plenty of family and friends there, so it can be a dual purpose run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 12 junk yards on N. Shepherd? Crap man, I wanna go! Next time you need to go call me, all I can find around here they don't have any thing for our trucks, and I hate going to LKQ over there on Wallisville, its too huge for one thing and then you gotta pay to get in, then you gotta pay again if you want to go to the other side. I've tried calling a couple of the ones on mykawa and pasadena and they never have anything for our trucks, they don't even look they just say "94 Nissan path? No, don't got it." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 (edited) For you Houston people, the parts dept at McDavid Nissan sucks. I called Clear Lake, and got much better treatment. They told me there are only 2 of the lock washers in their inventory nationwide. I had to special order it since McDavid can't even figure out where in the order process they are. If I wind up with both of them, I'll let you know. Once I see it, I'll either try and duplicate it myself, or have someone do it on the plasmacam. That last part all depends on if I get a job teaching at TSTC like I hope. I had the same response when I called the junkyards in Pasadena. One of the guys who answered the phone even spoke English! Edited August 14, 2013 by JJ331 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 (edited) btw: you wont break anything with stock tires. Even with the full skinny pedal treatment. R200A and 180lbft...you'll be fine... I lose zero sleep over it and I have 33's. They used the same exact diff for the Supercharged and VQ35 trucks.... Edited August 14, 2013 by Inyourface1650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 IMO the diff and axle shafts are plenty strong it is just the steering parts you have to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Thanks for all the input! We finally got it back together last night. The junkyard hub had the lock washer, even though I was told it didn't. I'd been driving around with it for a week, waiting on Nissan... DOH!!! I now have that one, and the one I intend to take back to McDavid since they overcharged me. Truck drives fine, Now I just need to figure out what's wrong with the driver's side headlight. Yes, I changed the bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 When I took off the nuts to take the hub off, 2 of the studs backed out. Naturally they've vanished. I can find part numbers all day long, but I can't find the stud dimensions. If anyone knows, please post up. Otherwise, I'm just going to take one of the nuts to the hardware store and get a couple of grade 8 studs..... and some locktite! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I know the thread is M8x1.25mm and when I measured some old studs that came with some used Warn hubs I bought, there were two different lengths, 43 and 50mm. It shouldn't be too hard to pull one of the remaining studs to get an OAL from, just don't lose it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ331 Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Thanks! I knew better than to put them in the tray of my stool, there's a gremlin that steals every small item I put there. It was dark when we finished, they probably got kicked into the grass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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