Guest 0pti0n Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Judging from the people here, crankin the T-bars and getting JGC springs quite a common thing. So my question is, how easy is it to do? And any recommendations for doing it, ie procedures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Hey OptiOn. I'll beat everyone to the obvious and standard answer... Use the 'search' function and read. That being said, there is a good write up by 88 at the top of the garage section titles 'rear spring options...' or something equally identifyable. Coil spring compressors, jack and jackstands are about all you need other than common sense. The T-bars are easy.... Jack up and support the front end. Loosen the locking nut, turn the bolt clockwise (while securing the second nut I believe). If your truck sits even (from side to side) just count the turns and do it the same on both sides. If you crank them up a lot, have it aligned. The T-bars should take you 20 minutes.... Good luck. Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 You usually don't need spring compressors, though. I had to use them on mine cause I have spring spacers top and bottom as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 14, 2004 Share Posted December 14, 2004 Yeah, I didn't need spring compressors at all. BTW, I took the bolts out for guides for the brake lines during the install which freed up a tad more distance that I could drop the axle in order to get the springs in. No problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 I had no trouble installing my rear coils with new p/u isolators. I had a friend to wedge a piece of wood in to pry the axle down so i could slide the new coils in. It's easier if you set the top of the coil in place first, then work the bottom in. You might need to use a prybar, but it's not likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Ok, maybe you dont need coil spring compressors if you remove brake line guides, have friends with wood wedges, prybars, etc. I have a set of spring compressors from working on strut front ends, so I didn't think about the work arounds.... I'm sure they all work... Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 88, you mention spring spacers, top and bottom.... How much do they space ? Is there a reason why not just to install the spring spacer on the bottom and use the stock springs to gain lift ?? I just replaced the rear shocks with ProComp ES3000 shocks and as Mr Pickles said, they are stiff, so thats not a worry. 2" is all I want, but maybe spacers don't come that thick ? Clue me in please... Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 I have some 3/4" reinforced rubber mat available, so I cut out two rubber donuts to space the top and bottom of the springs. Works fine. That's about a 1.5" spacer height amount...with the amount the ends of the springs sink into the rubber, I'd say about 1" tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Ok, maybe you dont need coil spring compressors if you remove brake line guides, have friends with wood wedges, prybars, etc. I have a set of spring compressors from working on strut front ends, so I didn't think about the work arounds.... I'm sure they all work... Bernard I wouldn't call it a work around at all. Its about as simple and common sense as can be had. The axle drops a certian amount before lines are stretched, which is all that help my install back. So I just freed up the guides for the lines and gained a bunch more extension, which made the install pretty much brain dead work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Got ya 88. I had imagined a hard insert with the contours of the spring cup that could just be placed in there. Understood Mr What I meant by work around was how to do it without spring compressors. Yes, there is more than one way to install the springs, none is right or wrong, just what tools you have and how you prefer to do it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 I bought a set of ACs 2" coils really cheap. When I went to put mine on I removed the pan hard bar and shocks, and the wheels. Let the rear end sag as much as it could, and the stock springs fell out. I set the top of the new spring in first and was able to pop the passenger side one right in. The driver's side wouldn't go in so easily though. Well, being half done at that point and without a spring compresser, I used a ratchet strap. I dropped the strap down through the openning in the middle of the top spring pertch and hooked it towards the bottom of the spring then hooked the other end to my slider. Then cranked on the strap slowly while prying on the bottom of the spring to get it over the bottom pertch. The hook on the srping slipped a few times but finally it held enough to work. Gotta love redneck inginuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=3980 $10.99, coil spring compressors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=3980 $10.99, coil spring compressors Ya, I couldn't go to harbor freight with the truck in pieces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 What's your other Pathy for, then? Hm? hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 Man, you all make me feel like I'm tarded! I'm gonna have to try my torsion bars again. I didn't get the lift I was expecting. The front still slopes down unlike the rear. I'm angry! :furious: Once I get it to where I want the front, I'll get an alinement and then some pic's for ya'll! All you guru's make me :oops: , but we love ya for all your knowledge. -study- Thanks guys/gals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 What's your other Pathy for, then? Hm? hehe Didn't have it then ( year and a half ago) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 I'm planning on cranking the torsion bars tomorrow. Roughly how many rotations does it take to achieve about 1 inch of lift. Will I notice the truck rise as I turn or is it more gradual than that? I only want 1 inch because I figure ball joints will wear less than if I did two inches, also I don't want my dad to notice a difference or he'll start bitchin' at me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 LOL, dont need to piss dad off !! Do what I did after I pulled the T-bars to yank the tranny if you need to estimate. Have the wrench/ratchets with you + tape measure. Crank a few times (equal on both sides) and measure it. You HAVE to drive it inbetween to let things 'settle' but it works. If you want to be more precise, use a 1' finely graduated steel rule, and measure the A arms, with the same crank and drive method. Patience kills the savvage beast, or something like that... Just make sure you are on lever ground when you take measurements !! Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madizm620 Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 what is the max lift you can crank out of the torsion bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 2 inches. Well, 2 inches without replacing the torsion bars altogether with stiffer ones. 3 is being very ridiculously stupid- hope I don't offend anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-finder Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I'm going to get the CALMIMI springs and control arms this spring to do the 3" lift. If I keep the stock t-bars can I get the 3" of lift in the front? I can't decide on buying the springs and control arms separate with bilstein shocks, or just buy the CALMINI 3" kit with the springs, control arms, new t-bars and the CALMINI shocks. It equals out to about the same price. Does anyone have an opinion? Which would give a better ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 As far as your t-bars are concerned, depends on how old and tired they are. Have they been cranked up before? How's the front end ride? How long have they been in there? If they have been in there a while, and you are going Calmini everything else, might as well go ahead and replace em, since it will be easy to do while you're in the same area. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-finder Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 Mine have sagged some. I cranked them some to raise it maybe 1/2" now. They are the original ones that came on it. I can tell by the ride that the shocks and the t-bars are worn out. I didn't know if by the time I crank them enough to get 3" lift I won't be able to stand the ride. Has anybody tried it, and has anybody know anything about the CALMINI shocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 Yipeekieyae! I have an inch of lift in the front! Stop laughing, I swear it's a 1" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted January 29, 2005 Share Posted January 29, 2005 Ok, now I want to do this JGC spring thing in the back, but I only want one inch of lift (so I don't plummet the nose and also to hide it from my dad). 88 has posted that I may only get 1.5" out of them because of the extra doors and tire rack... good. But I still need another half inch less than that. If I lop off another 1/8 of a coil that should lower it about where I want it. Here's my problem: Will the springs fall out of their sockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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