Steve_RI Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Well, I replaced my radiator and thermostat....in another post. I replaced the radiator because the truck is running on the hot side, but not overheating. The radiator was shot - cooling fins deteriorated from the harsh winter salt up here. This has happened in the past so I did not think that this was a big deal. However, I'm not getting any coolant to the heater. I have a T-fitting in the top heater hose (from the Prestone flush kit I installed years ago), so I can tell that there is no flow. I replaced the thermostat, although I determined the previous one was working fine. There was no sediment or build up that I could see and when I flushed it, the coolant came out nice and clean from the block (both sides). Nothing seems blocked. Could it be the water pump, but that just doesn't make sense given it is a mechanical pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 (edited) Inspect the radiator cap following the instructions in this TSB and replace with a new OEM one if necessary. Edited May 26, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 You could try a high capacity water pump, maybe that will help. I put FF Dynamics electric fans on my 96, never gets past 185f now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Did you burp the system? (run it with the cap off for a bit, heater on full blast, and topping up the coolant as it goes down and air comes out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Could be the cap or pump. I dought its the cap because that should not affect the coolant getting to the heater core, Getting back from the over flow bottle maybe but not the core. Start with whats cheapest and work your way up untilyou find out what the problems is. Or yeah, did you purge the block? they could be air build up in it causing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 To get a quicker burp, park the vehicle on an incline. They burp best when the front is as high as it can be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Sure you have to burp it after a rad change, but you said it was running hot before the rad change right? Is the temp with the new rad higher or lower than it used to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 sounds like the impellar on the water pump may be wore down and it's not pushing water. If you have a new radiator and thermostat may also want to check the fan clutch after you find out why the water is not flowing thru to the heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 The symptoms were the same before the new rad and thermostat, but now I have no heat at all. Before i had a little bit, but that's probably because I had coolant in the entire system. The impellars on the pump can actually wear down, huh? I have tried some of these suggestions, but it looks like I am breaking this down again and checking the pump. Hopefully, that is it. T-belt time as well regardless... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 I read on another forum that if you don't put the thermostat in with the "jiggle" valve to the top than air can't get out and it will cause the problem you are having. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 I made sure to put the thermostat with that valve up, but it should still be circulating fluid...I put nearly two gallons of coolant in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 According to the owners manual for my '88, a VG30's coolant capacity is 10.5 US/Quarts (2.625 US/gal) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 yes the impellers can wear down but not during the life of the engine LOL u just have air in it or the valve from the heater control is not turning properly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 I know I'm a little light on the coolant because I am not getting any coolant to the heater. I have the T-fitting from the prestone flush kit on the upper heater hose, so I can peek in there and clearly see there is no coolant. I would think that would be the best spot to bleed the system since it is the highest point? That has worked well in the past. I am going to try to bleed this thing one more time as I do not want to take this thing apart again, yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I agree with madhornet, check those first. I know you said it's not blocked but you were talking about the engine block water system right? Have you run a hose thru just the heater core to make sure it's not blocked? Do the pipes to the heater get warm or do they stay cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Well, it has to be the water pump because the bottom hose is not getting warm. I don't know why I didn't think to check that earlier. There must be some sediment or something in the water channels blocking the flow because I doubt the impellers on the pump are an issue. I'm a little early for a T-belt, but it doesn't make any sense not to change that out at this point. I'll post back what the solution was. Thanks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 If the engine has had straight water in it for it's lifetime the impeller can wear out, I doubt yours had straight water running thu it for that long but I threw that idea out there as a possibility, do you or have you noticed any water leaking out of the bottom of the water pump? weep hole I think they call it? I replaced the water pump on my old 87 hardbody way back because water was leaking out the weep hole, I don't recall the condition of the impeller but something failed in it causing it to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Ordering up some parts .... No, I haven't really needed to add any coolant (I use G-05) since I changed the T-belt in June 05, so I haven't had anything leaking. I probably should have flushed the coolant at the 5 year mark, but I do not put a lot of miles on the vehicle. The radiator was beat up, but internally it looked fine. I suspect I'm going to find the system plugged up at the water pump, which I am going to replace regardless of the condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 Well, I took the WP off and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I flushed the motor, blew out the heater lines, checked the thermostat again for good measure and put everything back together. I had some trouble with the T-belt, but it fired up and everything is fine now. I do not think the WP was an issue, so I think it may have been some sort of trapped air issue as several of you suggested. Thanks for the help, I'm just glad it's good to go now for summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I got a leak at the water pump, what a royal PITA this is turning out to be. I was never a big fan of that wp gasket, I must have overlooked somethng putting it on....probably means a new T-belt as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I know people say you shouldn't but I used RTV on the wp gasket to help it seal, it also holds the gasket in place when you refitting the pump 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I used it as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Okay, after round 2 everything looks good. The only issue now is that I need a new front skid plate. I was test driving the truck and I had the skid plate lying on the ground next to my trash and one of the many scrap metal guys came by and snagged it. Bad timing, I tried like hell to find him, but no luck. I have a post up in parts wanted, but if anyone has one for sale let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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