Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 What makes you think the cats are shot? Does your engine burn a ton of oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 It might just be that I want to get rid of them haha, but they do have 123k on them. I dont burn any oil between oil changes Its probably just my heavy right foot that determines my big gas mileage fluxuation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Yeah, if you don't burn any oil and never had a misfire condition for a significant number of miles your cats are most likely fine. Mine are fine at 131k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Definitely had some misfiring, car ran like junk when I got it. Ended up being 1 coil pack and 2 VTC sensors and a vacuum line to the intake tube. I just wish the exhaust manifolds/cats were atleast visible in our rigs. I expect if ever take it apart I would need to replace everything, and remove alot of parts in the way of any exhaust related bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Misfiring dumps excessive raw fuel into the cat and definitely does harm by reducing its reactive surface area. Which cylinder was misfiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Passenger side closest to the rad. Im pretty certain its technically cylinder 1. Its the only one on my VQ that is different physically than the other 5 anyways, which is why I stupidly bought it last I also had no luck using the Maxima MAF when I swapped it in favour of the cleaned OEM piece, the maxima one just never ran well (forget the symptoms it was 18months ago) and I went back to the OEM one which Im currently using. I actually have two maxima mafs in the garage from that ordeal. One new, one barely used, maybe I should try em again Edited February 24, 2012 by WOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Yep, that would be cylinder 1. Bank 1. What's wrong with your current MAF that prompted you to try a Maxima MAF? Strange that you've having issues with one. You purchased this MAF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) I think it just wasnt running right, bad idle and startup I believe. And for the hundred or so the maxima units cost new, I tried it. Then another. Then just cleaned the oem one and thats how its ran best Thats a couple bills Id like to have back for the casino Edited February 24, 2012 by WOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 If it still passes emissions and they don't glow red and the truck isn't down on power, they're fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paoldschool Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 So I have been paying more attention to my MPG since gas has started going up here again, and my average is 18.7. I live in Northwest PA and have a 28 mile commute that is up and down on 2 lane 55 MPH roads. My Pathfinder is box stock no mods at all... YET. Anyway I am thinking if I put manual hubs on it and keep my foot out of it low 20's should be in my future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 i hear manually locking hubs will pick up 2-3mpg I've heard this number quoted several times, but if you look at fueleconomy.gov, the 2wd comparable year pathfinder is only getting 1mpg better city and highway, so how would anyone get 2-3mpg better... I am not trying to be rude, just trying to seek ways to get mine up from my last tank of 11.5 US MPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E_ROCK Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I currently average just over 19mpg but I was averaging about 17mpg before installing the Warn hubs. Mostly highway miles and usually the tail end of rush hour traffic or none at all. Everything (suspension/wheels/tires) is stock running at 35psi and I don't rev the engine above 3000rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alloyguitar Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 mine gets around 15 city/19 highway with 210k on the clock. I think a lot of it is that all the stations around here run an ethanol mix, which will hurt your mileage since alcohol has half of the energy potential than gasoline does. Just another reason why my daily driver when it isn't raining is a dr250s. 70-75mpg is hard to argue with. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) mine gets around 15 city/19 highway with 210k on the clock. I think a lot of it is that all the stations around here run an ethanol mix, which will hurt your mileage since alcohol has half of the energy potential than gasoline does. Just another reason why my daily driver when it isn't raining is a dr250s. 70-75mpg is hard to argue with. lol I've converted mine over to all synthetic fluids and did the air filter/fuel filter and plugs,maf clean, throttlebody clean over this winter, i'll wait until the winter mix gas is not used anymore, and re-evaluate, before i head down the o2 sensor or something else road. Maybe 12mpg is all its going to get in the winter. I run 91octane, which here has no ethanol, our 87 and 89 has 10 and 5% respectively. Edited April 2, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 If your mileage takes a noticeable dive with outside temperature, then the thermostat may be to blame. I still say though: these are old SUVs and they will never be good on gas. However, I just bought an Accord for $2500, and I figured out that it will take roughly 40,000km for it to have paid for itself in better mileage compared to my Pathfinder (numbers used were my own recorded averages). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I have 4WD with the Warn Hubs. Recently serviced the trans. (I was pleasantly surprised of the drain plug, btw...) I average 16mpg. Freeways - 70-80mph + city, of course. I also have the heavy front bumper. My BFGs are 30x9.5x15. Tuneup is in the near future....just hit 216k. Why were you surprised by the drain plug? -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Why were you surprised by the drain plug? -Kyle Many vehicles don't have drain plugs on the transmission or differential(s). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Many vehicles don't have drain plugs on the transmission or differential(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 (edited) Ford is famous for that. The last F150 I had (2008) did not have drain plugs, and I had a couple ford crown vic's and you had to crack the tranny pan and rear end to change fluids. now that's nice. picture 13L of ATF fluid just running everywhere... I am not sure I will ever buy another domestic. Ever since I ditched ford and chev (never had any dodge) and went to Honda, Toyota and Nissan I've had much less for problems. However, as much as I want a Tundra, I really don't want the poor fuel economy that comes with it, or the extra $10-12000 new or used. I can swallow a lot of ATF and put a lot of ball joints in for $12,000. My F150 was a 2008, had 110,000KMS on it when I got rid of it, and I put basically all new front end parts, and one new lower control arm, and the cab mounts needed changed. Not to mention the 2 complete rear differentials (First one at 60,000KMS under warranty, second not long after), one set of bearings after that, pinion seal, and at least one u joint. I am not even sure if I didn't have to put a driveshaft in that, becuase the hanger bearing went bad and was all part of it. But the motor was solid as a rock... So, ask me, why would I buy another ford? I feel like pounding the piss out of my pathfinder just to prove to myself that its better and I don't ever want another ford truck! Edited April 3, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I get between 16-17 with open hubs, 4.6 gears, AC lift, and lowly 31" tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkinpark Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Right now after recalculating for tire and gearing difference I get about 14. But in the summer I get 17-19. 3.3, 5 speed, 4.3 gears, and open hubs. Its supposed to be 4.6 gears but havent put those back in yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Ford is famous for that. The last F150 I had (2008) did not have drain plugs, and I had a couple ford crown vic's and you had to crack the tranny pan and rear end to change fluids. now that's nice. picture 13L of ATF fluid just running everywhere... I am not sure I will ever buy another domestic. Ever since I ditched ford and chev (never had any dodge) and went to Honda, Toyota and Nissan I've had much less for problems. However, as much as I want a Tundra, I really don't want the poor fuel economy that comes with it, or the extra $10-12000 new or used. I can swallow a lot of ATF and put a lot of ball joints in for $12,000. My F150 was a 2008, had 110,000KMS on it when I got rid of it, and I put basically all new front end parts, and one new lower control arm, and the cab mounts needed changed. Not to mention the 2 complete rear differentials (First one at 60,000KMS under warranty, second not long after), one set of bearings after that, pinion seal, and at least one u joint. I am not even sure if I didn't have to put a driveshaft in that, becuase the hanger bearing went bad and was all part of it. But the motor was solid as a rock... So, ask me, why would I buy another ford? I feel like pounding the piss out of my pathfinder just to prove to myself that its better and I don't ever want another ford truck! I don't even want to imagine how annoying draining ANYTHING without a drain plug will be. That is litteraly as obvious as it gets for one to be able to see that the engineer who designed that, wasn't an engineer or REALLY hated either ford, his job, or both! lol Right now after recalculating for tire and gearing difference I get about 14. But in the summer I get 17-19. 3.3, 5 speed, 4.3 gears, and open hubs. Its supposed to be 4.6 gears but havent put those back in yet. Nice user name! And i can average about 16 according to this app that have, completely stock, so I'm looking forward to my warn hubs!!! -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I don't even want to imagine how annoying draining ANYTHING without a drain plug will be. That is litteraly as obvious as it gets for one to be able to see that the engineer who designed that, wasn't an engineer or REALLY hated either ford, his job, or both! lol Nice user name! And i can average about 16 according to this app that have, completely stock, so I'm looking forward to my warn hubs!!! -Kyle I wonder if it would be possible I have an auto hub locked full time or something? How can I check my auto hubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Let's be clear about nomenclature, here: Manual hubs = hubs engage and disengage with manual intervention, where manual means you have to physically operate them with your hands to disconnect the front wheels from the front driveline Auto hubs = hubs engage and disengage automatically without manual intervention, based on a torque differential between the driveshaft and wheel. If driveshaft torque > wheel torque then hub engages. If wheel torque > driveshaft torque, hub disengages. Drive flanges = hubs are permanently engaged to axles, so the front driveline always rotates with the front wheels A stock R50 Pathfinder has drive flanges. There are no auto hubs that fit the R50, so unless you physically rotate a knob on the manual hub to engage/disengage them, your hubs are always "locked". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Let's be clear about nomenclature, here: Manual hubs = hubs engage and disengage with manual intervention, where manual means you have to physically operate them with your hands to disconnect the front wheels from the front driveline Auto hubs = hubs engage and disengage automatically without manual intervention, based on a torque differential between the driveshaft and wheel. If driveshaft torque > wheel torque then hub engages. If wheel torque > driveshaft torque, hub disengages. Drive flanges = hubs are permanently engaged to axles, so the front driveline always rotates with the front wheels A stock R50 Pathfinder has drive flanges. There are no auto hubs that fit the R50, so unless you physically rotate a knob on the manual hub to engage/disengage them, your hubs are always "locked". Ten four, so adding manual hubs to my pathfinder which now I assume has drive flanges will not work then. i also have the auto 2wd. I wish I Had a 5spd with the lever 4wd! But I got an auto with the allmode 4wd The AUTO is kind of useful when i send my wife out with it though in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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