paoldschool

If you have 134a in the A/C system then check the A/C compressor to see if it is turning with the A/C on high. That might be the cause of your noise, the compressor has a clutch on the front of it, that engages the compressor. If the compressor still does not engage, then check the wires running to it to make sure they are connected and not broken. From there fuses and relays. Good luck.

Just did my 96 R50 with the split bushings from 4x4 parts. WOW!!! I cut everything and replaced all the nuts and bolts, and also replaced the shocks. My patthy is fun to drive again!!! My only problem now is my 16 year old son likes to drive it too.

The bleed order also has something to do with the ABS system. If your R50 has the load sensing valve on the rear brakes that should be done before either one of the rear wheels. I flushed my system after everything was apart to replace rear axle seals. It is amazing the difference new fluid makes.

Mine had leaked down a bit, so I didn't have to drain anything. My was damaged while putting the upper plenum back on after replacing the valve cover gaskets and the timing belt and cam seals. So it wasn't all the way full, the leak was found on the first start up. After the leak was fixed it took about 1/2 gallon to fill the system. I used black permatex on the fittings and also where the hose went over the fitting. So far so good, no leaks. Next project is to rebush the rear trailing arms, and new rear shocks...

I was able to thread the hole with a 1/4" pipe tap. I put a street "L" in it and a 1/2" hose barb and hooked everything back up, and so far so good...

I have a coolant leak where the line connects to the upper plenum by the egr valve. This line runs over to the throtle body and then back. My question is why does coolant run through there, and could the lines that run to the back of the upper plenum just be looped to do away with this???

So back to the topic at hand, when putting in an electric fan where is the best place to draw power from? Then where to connect so that it will come on and off at the proper temp? I am a R50 noob. I am in the process of replacing the timing belt, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, and then a tune up. Mine has 174,xxx miles on the ticker, and it is my daily driver. I too am trying to get the most bang for my buck for fuel milage. I am also planning a set of manual hubs in the near future. I have been working on my sons 05 Xterra OR for the past few years, and when this R50 came up for sale I jumped on it as a good project. Thanks for all the good info!!!

So I have been paying more attention to my MPG since gas has started going up here again, and my average is 18.7. I live in Northwest PA and have a 28 mile commute that is up and down on 2 lane 55 MPH roads. My Pathfinder is box stock no mods at all... YET. Anyway I am thinking if I put manual hubs on it and keep my foot out of it low 20's should be in my future.

Put in a new Pioneer head unit. It was easy and it sounds great. Now I have to do the real work, rebush the trailing arms and replace the clutch... I guess I got the important part out of the way first!!!

I looked on Dormans web site, and the part no's are 905-802 for the uppers and 905-803 and 905-804 for the lowers. My question is this, they say they are for 97 to 04, what about the 96???

Ok so I am new to all this Pathfinder stuff... My son has an 05 Xterra Off Road, and I just bought a 96 Pathfinder SE. It runs great, but the rear suspenion is toast. I have been looking around, and I am wondering which is the best way to go, split bushings or solid? I know you have to press the solid ones in, that is not a problem, I am just wondering which will last longer and perform better. I was surprised to see the 5 link set-up in the back, as I said I am used to working on my son's X. Any advice would be great!!!