918pathy Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Are the ball joints on a center lnk ends replacable, I have one that have the rubber boot all tore up on it. I been looking at online at Checker, Autozone, but they dont show it, only the entire center link. Its the boot that is on the Power steering side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) I'm not positive but I think you're talking about the inner tie rod ends. If so, yes they can be replaced, it should help your steering too if it's loose or wobbly at all. Edit: Just looked under my truck and saw that I was forgetting about the ones built into the centerlink. Overlander is right, if it's those, you'll have to replace your whole centerlink. I'd suggest a hooha centerlink if you plan on doing a lot of offroading. Edited February 9, 2012 by rwd5021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 As said above if its the one that connects the wheel to the center link via to tierod then yes. But if its the ones that are build into the center link that connect to the idler and pitman arm then no you will need to replace the entire center link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I had to replaced my whole center link because mine were not replaceable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
918pathy Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Son of a !!!, mine is the ball joint on driver side the idler arm connects to the center link, it steers fine and seems ok pretty tight, just the rubber "boot" on it is cracked and torn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Son of a !!!, mine is the ball joint on driver side the idler arm connects to the center link, it steers fine and seems ok pretty tight, just the rubber "boot" on it is cracked and torn Yeah you will need a whole centerlink for that one i just got done replacing mine due to that exact joint going bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 If you are planning on actually wheeling your pathfinder, consider getting a HooHaa centerlink. The factory units just don't hold up under trail use. http://www.grassroots4x4.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 the factory units just don't hold up in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 X2 on the HooHaa. I have put mine through hell and it is still strong... check out grassroots as already mentioned... I need to dig up some pictures of mine so you can see it installed, unless someone else wants to chime in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) http://purenissan.com/wd21_steering.htm This is what you really need. The rest is ghetto rigged nonsense. That grass roots link is an economical alternative but if you are going to go that way be sure to REINFORCE the idler arm with a brace. Edited February 9, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 The Grassroots CL is far from ghetto rigged nonsense. I purchased one over a year ago and my steering is doing just fine. I do have a idler arm brace from 4x4parts, and a stock steering stabilizer. Buying the GR CL and a idler brace is still way cheaper and you wont have to wait a year to get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Uhhh yea, sorry dude but the brass sleeved bushing setup is what is ghetto...IMO. I deleted my idler arm and now run a dummy box (until I finish the SAS)... No issues whatsoever....matter of fact I have SERIOUSLY been hard on it, especially since I am doing the solid swap...it has held up through it all.. Ghetto, I think not!! Economical? Well it cost me $250 with 3 cores... still WAAAAY cheaper than Calmini ever thought about being... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 i said the grass roots was an economical alternative but it only removes one issue to add another i'm sure it works fine but you will have to do something about the idler arm if you go that route the dual ball joint setup on the center link is done so that the cheesy idler arm doesn't snap off and so that the tie rods don't ever bind it's a really crappy system but it works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Idler Arm Brace, Bracing on Idler Arm and Pitman Arm, Grassroots Centerlnk, And 1 Ton Chevy Tie Rods that fit the Centerlink Taper and are WAY stronger considering they are the same Tie rods chevy uses on its 3500 series trucks. Still plenty strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Tung, was not trying to start a war man... I realize that opinions are like... well you know... That was just mine... I am running GM tie rods as well, mainly because they don't bend as easily as the Nissan equivalent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amfq120 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Any chance you guys know the part number for those GM tie rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amfq120 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Also, isn't the tie rod end itself pretty strong vs. the center tapered part? Any way to strengthen that, or is that a 1 ton chevy part too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 No, the factory tie rods are weak. I broke them before and my truck failed inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 X2 on the model and year of Chevy to buy for the tie rods? Is this for both tie rod ends and the adjuster on each side? Or just the ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm replacing my tie rods next week and i'm also very interested in which tierods to use. Is it inner and outer and also do you use the stock adjusting sleeve or chevy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm sure these tie rod ends y'all speak of fit the larger taper on 94 and 95 models right? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I will have to look when I get home... I think I even saved the box ends for future reference.... For me it took a little bit of measuring... I work PT at AZ, and when we were slow one day I took the factory replacement for the Pathfinder and lined it up. with the equivalent 1 ton Chevrolet. I replaced the adjusting sleeve as well, because if I remember correctly it was quite a bit larger than factory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 This is from about 30 mins in moab on metal masher on stock ifs and snapped one in half: I'm going with these that I've made and changing the taper to Chevy 1tons haven't figured out which ones for sure...also will make a custom CL until I can SAS...i also have an IAB This with some new LCA bushings should allow me to beat on her hard enough till I get the SAS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) I don't know how many have done this before in the past but someone on facebook suggested swapping to a Hardbody 2WD setup. http://www.courtesyparts.com/hardbody-truck-parts-d21u-1995-1997/genuine-nissan-parts/steering/485-steering-linkage/-c-5388_5389_5499_5502.html Edited February 15, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 To be honest that setup doesn't look half bad. i'll check to see what all need swapped out minus center link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now