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87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...


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It needs a few months of heavy use before the will be offered to folks. There will be an upcoming truss made the reflects the production model. This is the second version.. the third will have all the tweaks learned from the first two.

 

The things this truss has to offer so far..

 

Lifts all the mounting points up 2.5 inches.. uppers-lowers-panhard (the production model will have the panhard going the OEM direction)

 

JGC coils normally lift our rear ends about 2.5 inches after settling. The all the mounts lifted the same the links are close to factory configuration again.

 

With the bracketry lifted 2.5 inches.. nothing hangs below the axle tube.. :o)

 

The bumpstop catches are also 2.5 inches higher.. helps keep bigger tires from hitting wheel well.

 

The upper arm mounts can be made to fit three configurations. 1) The stock upper arms 2) The stock lower arms to upper arms 3) Full-On triangulated 4 link (no pan hard).

 

It allows a Pathfinder owner to install a Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44 with disk brakes/parking brakes. Doesn't really sound all appealing until you start upgrading the axle. Gears are half price, name a locker.. everyone makes lockers for the D44!

 

A couple of us in Colorado have used these axles with 38 inch tires. They held up! Not saying this is the best axle for the bigger tires.. however if they took that beating.. it should hold up to 31-35 inch tires wonderfully!

 

The 90-95 Rodeo axles are 58ish wide. The 96-97 axles are 60.5 wide. The later Rodeos (98+) have a different ring and pinion. I need to do a little more research on this one.. not sure it has much support. However it comes in around 64 wide.

 

We can get these axles at the local "pull you own parts" yards for 150-250 dollars. Find a (Disk/Parking Brake) replacement for the 233b that ever comes close to this price and has the support of a Dana 44 with it! Nothing comes close!

Edited by GrandpaX
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Looks freakin sweet...when will those be available.?

 

So to answer your question... It will take a little time to make this a "great" product. I would say two-three months you will see something offered. Probably see what folks think at Gone Moab before it is.. (This setup will be made to work for the first gen Xterra folks too)

Edited by GrandpaX
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So to answer your question... It will take a little time to make this a "great" product. I would say two-three months you will see something offered. Probably see what folks think at Gone Moab before it is.. (This setup will be made to work for the first gen Xterra folks too)

 

thank you...

off topic...how did you hook up your Parking brake cables for the Rodeo swap..?

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thank you...

off topic...how did you hook up your Parking brake cables for the Rodeo swap..?

 

I have not done it to this axle yet... They are configured the same way. The only problem being how they hook up. The easiest way would be to cut the lever and all out of the floor of the Rodeo.

 

In the past I kept the backing plate that holds the cables in place. Then made deal that held the two cables on one side and hooked up to the Nissan lever on the other.

 

This current setup will be different being I am changing the parking brake lever to be the under dash assembly from a Hard Body adapted to the the Isuzu cables. This will make room for a nicer center console. Love me some cup holders....

Edited by GrandpaX
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Putting some scrap steel to use...

 

196613_10200193371743920_946069396_n.jpg

 

Do you use this to notch tubing or do you use a proper tubing notcher? If so what are you using? I saw someone online using this type of setup to do it that's why I ask. I was thinking about doing this just to get me by before I buy a proper metal bandsaw.

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I have not done it to this axle yet... They are configured the same way. The only problem being how they hook up. The easiest way would be to cut the lever and all out of the floor of the Rodeo.

 

In the past I kept the backing plate that holds the cables in place. Then made deal that held the two cables on one side and hooked up to the Nissan lever on the other.

 

This current setup will be different being I am changing the parking brake lever to be the under dash assembly from a Hard Body adapted to the the Isuzu cables. This will make room for a nicer center console. Love me some cup holders....

yea i was thinking to just go cut out the Rodeo set up...probably do that this weekend...ill hit you up if i run into any issue...thanks

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Do you use this to notch tubing or do you use a proper tubing notcher? If so what are you using? I saw someone online using this type of setup to do it that's why I ask. I was thinking about doing this just to get me by before I buy a proper metal bandsaw.

 

I use this most of the time anymore. The notchers are almost too exact...

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that looks pretty sweet...i ended up wrapping mine in camouflage...

 

you know its January and its okay to take you Xmas lights down...LOL

 

I just finished taking mine down Saturday :aok:

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The idea of this rear built was to use JGC coils... once the first mock-up was together it was obvious the Jeep coils were not stiff enough. A guy can find stiffer coils... however they tend to be short and don't flex as well as the longer coils.

 

So off to the drawing board again.... imagine that! :blush:

 

So after a couple cups of coffee laying under the rig a new idea popped up. The factory rear coil buckets have quite a bit of extra room above them. So why not make new coil buckets that are a couple inches taller.. and while I am at it.. make the new buckets adjustable. Oh darn.. something new to make!!!

 

With a little research some Rubicon Express 3.5 inch lift coils were purchased....

 

So after 3-4 days of fabbing up new stuff... the new mock up come to a weight on wheels rest. This is far from being done.. .however thought I would share the progress.

 

101_1204Small.jpg

 

It ended up being the exact same lift as before with longer/stiffer coils... Sweet!

 

101_1203Small.jpg

Edited by GrandpaX
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The links look awesome but Where is the fuel tank ?

 

 

it's there, its behind the axle.

 

 

Yes it is back there... kinda hard to see being this rig is setting on 2.5 inches of lift. Normally the fuel tank/skid would be up a little higher for sure.

 

I still need to figure out a way to get the sway bar and shocks mounted up.... pics of those will probably be next.

Edited by GrandpaX
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The idea of this rear built was to use JGC coils... once the first mock-up was together it was obvious the Jeep coils were not stiff enough. A guy can find stiffer coils... however they tend to be short and don't flex as well as the longer coils.

 

So off to the drawing board again.... imagine that! :blush:

 

So after a couple cups of coffee laying under the rig a new idea popped up. The factory rear coil buckets have quite a bit of extra room above them. So why not make new coil buckets that are a couple inches taller.. and while I am at it.. make the new buckets adjustable. Oh darn.. something new to make!!!

 

With a little research some Rubicon Express 3.5 inch lift coils were purchased....

 

So after 3-4 days of fabbing up new stuff... the new mock up come to a weight on wheels rest. This is far from being done.. .however thought I would share the progress.

 

101_1204Small.jpg

 

It ended up being the exact same lift as before with longer/stiffer coils... Sweet!

 

101_1203Small.jpg

 

You know you could have just unbolted that drive shaft Lol!

James

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That is called axle out from under Rodeo in 10 minutes... gotta love the 18V porta-band. Plus I get that yoke/u-joint for free this way... LOL

Edited by GrandpaX
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