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87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...


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Now it is time for you to explain the meaning behind "Grandpa X!"

 

Ok... so 9849CY was my Alaska license plate number... thus "AK9849CY"

 

During Gone Moab in 2006 we were comparing the Xterra's to my Red Pathfinder.. I started the conversation saying the frame for the WD21 was purdy much the same as the WD22.. thus making the Pathfinder effectively the Grandpa of the Xterra's. For the rest of Moab they called my red Pathfinder "Grandpa X". It is my radio handle at Moab to this day...

 

Moab Rim during 2006 Gone Moab. Back then it was maybe 50 rigs... now it is around 200 or so...

 

0702_4wd+red_pathfinder_articulation+medium.jpg

 

More pics from that week..

 

0702_4wd_01_z+2006_gone_moab+line_up.jpg

 

0702_4wd_22_z+2006_gone_moab+nissan_xterra.jpg

 

0702_4wd_21_z+2006_gone_moab+tipover_challenge.jpg

 

0702_4wd_20_z+2006_gone_moab+2002_nissan_xterra.jpg

 

Clicky

Edited by GrandpaX
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  • 2 weeks later...

So what are you going to do about the drive shaft? Will the factory one work...?

 

The Xterra uses the same drive shaft only with Spicer 1310 joints... Have one here from a fella who installed a Calmini SYE.

Edited by GrandpaX
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Any particular reason why you used a bushing on either end instead of a heim or similar adjustable joint on one end?

 

This rig is my swiss army knife. It will be driven daily.. tow.. run trails.. etc. However this is not my "wheelin" rig... that would be my HB. The links are matched up, so it is just a matter of placing the mounts correctly. This can be a pain in the arse.. however once it is set it ends up being a long term "low maintenence" setup. They should be good for 100k or so....

Edited by GrandpaX
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Hey ryan...u gonna crash into anything above the links/truss...pic may be deceiving but it looks like with some articulation it may hit the floor or that rear x member but maybe not...I know this won't be as extreme as the hb but figured it'd be worth mentioning

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Hey ryan...u gonna crash into anything above the links/truss...pic may be deceiving but it looks like with some articulation it may hit the floor or that rear x member but maybe not...I know this won't be as extreme as the hb but figured it'd be worth mentioning

 

Take another look at the bump stops... :o)

 

Everything was repositioned/raised 2 inches on the axle... uppers, lowers, panhard mount, and the stops for the bumpstops,

 

Also check out how the rear mounts for the arms do not hang under the axle any more... :o) Two less things to get hung up on..

 

The springs are not longer factory in the back... these are some JGC coils that raised the rear two inches. So it ended up being a two inch lift (total) and runs 35's...

 

So truck is two inches higher than stock and the arms are essentially the same angle as before.

 

I may have said this before... but the idea would work great for an IFS guy who wants a two inch suspention lift. Cut all the stock mounts off... weld on a truss with new mounting points... run the same shocks, springs, arms, panhard as stock... only the truck is two inches higher. The rear link geometry would be nuts on stock... This is not a rock crawler fix... more of a fella wanting to run 33's with a tbar crank and the end effect being factory antisquat etc.. (Don't look at my link/spring setup.. think stock stuff all the way!)

 

Just think... no shocks, springs, or jacked up pan hard angle... to deal with. (Add it up!)

Edited by GrandpaX
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Yea like I said...I figured u had it right but the picture is deceiving...I have dealt with things that people didn't look in the open and close or in and out position so its great in one position but not abother...one was locking an oil filter b place and making it non removable....or one of my heat shields I designed straight out of school and it couldn't be installed after market...it happens

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This rig is my swiss army knife. It will be driven daily.. tow.. run trails.. etc. However this is not my "wheelin" rig... that would be my HB. The links are matched up, so it is just a matter of placing the mounts correctly. This can be a pain in the arse.. however once it is set it ends up being a long term "low maintenence" setup. They should be good for 100k or so....

 

Okay, makes sense. I was not second guessing you bra, I know you do top notch work and all, just was curious why you were going one way over the other. Kinda makes me want to sell the heims I bought for the rear and go with the XJ bushings... (much cheaper to replace when they wear!)

 

On another note, what is your opinion on going with a triangulated 4 link rather than one with a panhard? I realize the former would wear quicker due to the angle of the control arms, but the articulation gained would be significant...correct?

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Tri tracks straighter.. and you are correct with shorter life span. Heims work better in that application.. being they do not have any give. Actually a 3 link would work well with what I am doing too.. the only problem would be I plan on towing with it... so the more links/joints to spread out the force/wear the better.

 

I didn't take your statement as a second guess.. it was a viable question for sure. Being this is somewhat of a build thread I try to answer this stuff as if it applies to the build. Sometimes I don't have a ton of time to make what I type perfect.. just trying to get to the point and run. Can't wait to see your build!

Edited by GrandpaX
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  • 2 weeks later...

how did you mount that front bumper? i had a winch set up on my but it used the top bumber brakets and in a mudding incedent a few weeks ago i broke i off, right now the bumber is on wih only the bottom bolts and a smal small tack weld at the top. looking to re design my winch braket and plate so it is stronger.

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how did you mount that front bumper? i had a winch set up on my but it used the top bumber brakets and in a mudding incedent a few weeks ago i broke i off, right now the bumber is on wih only the bottom bolts and a smal small tack weld at the top. looking to re design my winch braket and plate so it is stronger.

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how did you mount that front bumper?

 

This front bumper removed the lower valence that your radiator mounts to. It is a one off deal that probably wouldn't be useful to most folks.

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  • 1 month later...

You are my hero... :clap:

 

As long as my nine year old thinks that... I am good! Thanks Bro!

 

However....

 

Just mounted a flip down DVD player yesterday. May make a cubby hole under the rear seat for the inferred headphones that go with.

 

Watching craigslist for a cheap 94-95 to grab the newer dash/ front interior from.

 

Boulder Nissan is checking for new Pathfinder stickers for the outside. May give it a new shot of color down the road...

 

I am having too much fun tinkering with this rig. Good chance it will get A/C again with the new dash and be more of a daily driver than expected. If it ends up going down the DD path, the twin turbo setup may be ditched for a simple single turbo. It will be tuned for gas mileage rather than crazy power. There is an 86 300z ecu Nistuned... and there is a M30 ecu in that pile somewhere too. So a nice economy tune is highly possible. Who knows, a neat pathy on 35's that gets 25mpg and has 280 horse... it rings a bell right now with me.

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Fitting little sub under seat...

 

100_0876640x480.jpg

 

100_0877640x480.jpg

 

100_0878640x480.jpg

 

I thought about making a compartment like this under my rear seats for a truck gun. It was just an idea so far, I didn't look to see if there would be enough space for what I need. My floor doesn't have any rust back there or else I would have done it already. It would be cool to have a place to leave an old rifle and some ammo out of the way of prying eyes.

James

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