BrianD Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I have posted before about replacing my brake lines - so that went well but now I've got a low brake pedal - Bled them 2 x all 4 wheels - even removed the ground from the battery but still I have to push the brake pedal quite far before getting any action - Suggestions pls? Thanx - Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I have posted before about replacing my brake lines - so that went well but now I've got a low brake pedal - Bled them 2 x all 4 wheels - even removed the ground from the battery but still I have to push the brake pedal quite far before getting any action - Suggestions pls? Thanx - Brian Don't know about the R50 but the WD21's equipped with ABS you have to bleed the ABS unit also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Adjust the rear brakes. The drums could be way out of adjustment, causing the shoes to move far further than they would normally have to in order to contact the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXPATH Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Master cylinder could be on its way out. Internal leak can cause loss of pressure....just my wild guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Adjust the rear brakes. The drums could be way out of adjustment, causing the shoes to move far further than they would normally have to in order to contact the drum. ^ This happened to me when I changed my rear brakes. I thought it was not bled properly but then I adjusted them and it was nice and tight. However if the parking brake feels normal to you or feels like it always has then I don't think its the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Agree with the brake adjustment suggestion. Between that and proper bleed sequence (not sure on r50s but wd21s got a wHierd backwards proper bleed sequence) and see what it feels like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 i am having the same issue new axle lines and shoes adjusted even had to bypass the proportioning valve to get half brakes back not even driving and i have to pump 1-2 times to get full brakes before proportioning valve bypass it was 3- 4 pumps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Sometimes bleeding brakes can be a pain... air gets stuck and it's hard to get it out. During the process maybe try hammering on the brakes a ton of times occasionally (with all the bleeders closed). Like for 30 seconds straight, pushing really hard over and over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Or try gravity bleeding, crack each bleeder and let it go for about 15 mins. Keep an eye on the fluid level at the master though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Sometimes bleeding brakes can be a pain... air gets stuck and it's hard to get it out. During the process maybe try hammering on the brakes a ton of times occasionally (with all the bleeders closed). Like for 30 seconds straight, pushing really hard over and over. Tap Gently. Hammering breaks stuff. Alternatively, replace the bleeder screws with speed bleeders and/or use a pressure bleeder. Motive products makes a very nice one that had adapters for many different cars. I've used on for years. It makes a frustrating job routine, and a lot less messy. Even so, you may need to run the bleed procedure a couple times to get any air trapped in the ABS actuator, and get it to collect in the calipers/wheel cylinders to get it out easily. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Tap Gently. Hammering breaks stuff. Hehe, perhaps, but I'd like to know that I can hammer on my brakes if I need to! With the truck off (no power brakes) I doubt you're going to do much damage unless it was already almost busted, in which case maybe it'd be good to find out in the garage? But I'm only talking about there being a small amount of air in the lines. Anyway, no warranty comes with my advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmons Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Sounds like the master cylinder. Not hard to replace. Careful with the brake fluid, will eat your paint off. I would make sure your wheels are off as well if your going to bleed the brakes in case you get brake fluid all over which will eat the paint right off those black steelies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 I have posted before about replacing my brake lines - so that went well but now I've got a low brake pedal - Bled them 2 x all 4 wheels - even removed the ground from the battery but still I have to push the brake pedal quite far before getting any action - Suggestions pls? Thanx - Brian Thanx everybody - in the owners manual on page 8-19 (do it yourself) there's a procedure to check the brake booster - which I did and it seems to work better now - Oh ..I also did the emergency brake handle pull(also in the owners manual)which is supposed to adjust the rear shoes - the pedal is still a bit low and bugs me - I gotta get 4 rubber tubes and bottles for bleeding. However ..in the workshop manual - it says to bleed the load sensing valve FIRST!( I do not see a bleeder vavle for it) then do the bleeding in order of: Left rear - rite rear - left front - rite front - which I've dun 2X - duh! I was also told to leave the brake fluid resevoir lid off over nite and sumtimes it will bubble the air out on it's own - Which I have not dun yet...if have any luck with all of the suggestions I will post again...it rained all day yesterday and I have no garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Hehe, perhaps, but I'd like to know that I can hammer on my brakes if I need to! With the truck off (no power brakes) I doubt you're going to do much damage unless it was already almost busted, in which case maybe it'd be good to find out in the garage? But I'm only talking about there being a small amount of air in the lines. Anyway, no warranty comes with my advice! What I meant by "Tap Gently" is to actually tap repeatedly on each caliper with an actual hammer to help shake loose any bubbles stuck to the inside of the caliper fluid chamber, so the fluid passing through it can carry them out of the system. Stomping("Hammering") on the brake pedal can move enough fluid to break residual bubbles loose, but since I rarely have a helper with brake bleeding, I use a pressure bleeder with clear vinyl tubing attached to the bleeder valve so I can see the fluid condition and watch the bubbles coming out. Be sure to run the tubing up from the bleeder valve before curving it down into the collection container to create a trap so the air bubbles don't work back up the tubing into the caliper while you are trying to close the valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianD Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 What I meant by "Tap Gently" is to actually tap repeatedly on each caliper with an actual hammer to help shake loose any bubbles stuck to the inside of the caliper fluid chamber, so the fluid passing through it can carry them out of the system. Stomping("Hammering") on the brake pedal can move enough fluid to break residual bubbles loose, but since I rarely have a helper with brake bleeding, I use a pressure bleeder with clear vinyl tubing attached to the bleeder valve so I can see the fluid condition and watch the bubbles coming out. Be sure to run the tubing up from the bleeder valve before curving it down into the collection container to create a trap so the air bubbles don't work back up the tubing into the caliper while you are trying to close the valve. Thanx a lot - I never thot o that - will do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now