unccpathfinder Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Used cooregated rubber from Lowes like 3 yards of it to make mine from cardboard cutouts and used sst hardware for my gap fillers U can see them sorta in my HD motor mount post..I need to redo them Do the bl and they're like 8 years old Edited July 12, 2011 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) kiwi pete & unccpathfinder- thanks for the material suggestions. i'll see what i can come up with... as far as my steering shaft goes, i have appeared to have fixed the problem by using a slightly smaller diameter bolt with 2 washers and lock tite to clamp my steering shaft around the steering box. it worked great, and its on there really good. i'm going to keep an eye on it, but i think this should work. now everything done for my body lift install except the notching the floor for my t-case shifter, and trying to fix my floor boards. i still cant get the carpet underneath the floor boards the way it originally was. the edges of my carpet have this plastic trim along them, and no matter how hard i try, i can not get them to stay put underneath my floorboards in the front seats. they want to push up the floorboards if i try squeezing the plastic trim underneath. i'll get some pictures up soon. and i want to try and raise my rear bumper... and i need to find a 31" spare... my old tires are not in the best shape, the treads are ok, but they have lots of cracks. hopefully i can get a few bucks for 'em on the lego Nissan rims though cause they're just taking up space now... Edited July 14, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 so how about some of those pictures? i want to finish that document for Steve. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 here's my gap guards. i used my old ones as a template and cut them from the corrugated rubber uncc speaks of. I used zip ties to hold them on and it's worked great: You can also bend your T-case shifter so that it clears the edge of the hole in. Try to avoid "notching" the floor since it will leave a hole around the rubber boot where noxious exhaust fumes can enter the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) hey unccpathfinder, sorry its taken me so long to get these pics up. partly its because i been reallt busy, and partly its because the pics i have suck, but i'll post what i got. i think a simple explanation might help a lot with these pics for anyone who hasnt already done this. The Body Lift kit comes with 4 x flat metal brackets with 2 x holes drilled in each for use as front bumper re-location mounts. What you have to do is, attach one end of each metal bracket to the bumper brackets, and then attach the other end of the brackets to the original holes for the bumper brackets located on the frame. The re-location brackets should be straight perpendicular to the frame, not angled like you can see in my pics (it took me a minute to figure out how they're supposed to fit, and i took the pictures as i was figuring it out, not after it was done correctly, my bad, i just got carried away with my work and completely forgot to snap some pics of the completed work). All your doing is using the re-location brackets to raise the original bumper brackets up about 3". Here's my pics: this is the front, you can see the silver metal re-loctaion brackets. they shouldnt be angled like the pics shows, but straight up and down. And this pic shows the bumper bracket and re-location brackets from the tire side. again, the re-location brackets should be straight up/down, not angled like the pic. hope that helps! I've started writing out a "how-to" for the complete body lift install on a Terrano, but it will be awhile 'till i'm done yet. i have much better pics for the rest of the install, i only slacked at taking pics at the very end! Nige- i found some rubber, but its not as thick as i was hoping for, it should do the job though. i've looked everywhere for the type of rubber found on my truck in the wheel wells, etc, but i cant find it anywhere... as far as the t-case shifter goes, i will try and bend it to shape first, i just didnt think it would be enough from what i've read. but i also read that if you get a longer shifter from the Hardbody you will still have to notch the floor anyways, so i dont see any point in shelling out the cash for a longer t-case shifter. i intend to make a waterproof seal around the t-case shifter boot and the floor, and then again around the t-case shifter boot and the t-case shifter itself on top. i want it to be waterproof for water crossings when i add my snorkel, so it should also keep out any fumes i would think? or so i hope. we shall see when everything is done... Josh Edited July 29, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) try a landscaping store or nursery. Pond liner will also work really well. The tcase shifter took a few tries to get it in the right shape so it cleared the dash and back of the hole, but that is with a 1994-95 dash. Since you have the older dash, you should be able to slide a pipe over the end and bend it while it's still attached to the truck. I think you do the bending when it's in 2HI, I'm not sure. If you are worried, you can take the lever off the tcase, make your bend and offer it up again to see if it's enough. Bender (good name) and I slid one end in the 2" hitch reciever and a pipe on the other end to do the bending. It ended up resembling a half-streched lightning bolt when it finally fit. you gotta go pretty deep and stop/get stuck before water starts coming though that hole. It will probably get in through the door seals or holes in the floor first. keep cleaning and oiling that frame and don't let rust sit on it for long. you'll be sorry down the road if you don't Edited July 29, 2011 by nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 Nige- will do about the nursery, havent checked a place like that yet. yeah, i think i'm gonna start doing a rust treatment yearly. its about $100 before the winter, and $150 during winter here. should have started doing that when i first got the truck... oh well, if i can keep things the way they are i'll be happy.... I was going to try bending my t-case shifter while it was still attached. if anyone wants to comment on how they bent there t-case shifter to get into 4Lo with a 3" body lift, please chime in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 I am going to replace my inner guard rubber with a truck or tractor tube. Just pop into a tyre shop that deals in heavy machinery and ask for an old tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 I bent my shifter with a pipe while it was still in the truck. Didn't damage anything. I did have someone under neath with some heat to allow it to bend easier. Nissan sells new tcase boots for around 30 dollars. Well worth it IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 kiwi pete- another good idea.... Adamzan- good idea also. somethin to think about... Nige- instead of using zip ties to hold on your gap guards, i found real plastic rivets like those from the factory at Parts Source: http://www.partsource.ca/ you may be also able you find something @ canadian tire... just thought you may be interested. thought it make it look more professional, and its an easy job, but really its not important and i'm sure your gap guards work just fine the way they are... I did call around at some landscaping nursery's, and i found some rubber sold by the foot used for pond liner. i'm not sure how thick it is, i'll have to go check it out, and it's way out in the suburbs.... anyways, seems like i'm getting closer to finding my rubber source! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 On my hardbody after the body lift I used a pair of semi mud flaps (cut to fit) to cover the front wheel well gap, fairly easy to find them, I also used bolts inserted thru the inner fender sheet metal from the engine side, than I put a nut on the bolt so the bolt would stay in place, added the rubber and used a washer and another nut, this way if I needed to remover the rubber liner the bolts will stay in place, and you would just be removing the nuts and washers. Just make sure to use a bolt long enough to go thru the metal and rubber, this method worked great for me and makes it easy to remove the liner or only half of it when doing a oil filter change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 ^ahardb0dy's bolt and double nut suggestion is a great idea for someone who pulls the gap guards often, especially if using a thicker rubber (I personally used a factory cargo area mat out of a Bravada) a bit more durable than plastic rivits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Thanks, I was going to drill the bolts on the pass. side and use a washer with some type of clip to make removal easier but ended up just using nuts, The semi mud flaps worked good for me, and when replacing the oil filter I only had to take half of it loose. If I EVER lift the PF I will be doing the same thing, right now am thinking if I want to keep it or sell it as I just can't afford to get anything for it, things are so much different now from when I had my hardbody, of course prices always go up but it was so easy back than (and cheaper) to get parts with the discount I used to get on everything. Sorry for the off topic ramblings back to topic now. one thing if you have the stock wheel well liners you can use them to trace out the pattern on what ever you choose to use after the body lift, just add the 3" difference to the new ones in the middle, should work out fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) ahardb0dy- great idea about mounting the gap guards! i think i will definently be copying that idea! I may try and raise my rear bumper as has been suggested, or i may just cover the gap with rubber and rivets or bolts back there also... i want to get a custom rear steel bumper made up eventually... i found rubber floor mat sold by the meter/yard @ the hardware store, the thickness is perfect, but it has raised treads all along it. it doesnt look so bad, but it clearly looks like a floor mat. I could use the back side, but its not the same rubber looking surface on the back, it clearly looks like the backside of a floor mat (hard to explain). hoping to find just regular flat/smooth rubber at the right thickness. looks like i'll have to make a drive out to this landscaping nursery and have a look at their pond liner... who would of thought it would be so hard to find some descent rubber?? Edited July 31, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Semi truck mud flaps, smooth one side logo on the other,about 1/4 " thick, easy to find, truck stops, truck dealers. just found these for an example, 1/4" x 24" x 36" $7.65 each http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/key/JKC%202436S/pn/Mud-Flap-1-4-rubber-24--x-36/erm/productDetail.do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 ahardb0dy- hey, great idea. those are huge. those will definetly work for gap guards and a new t-case shifter boot, might be even to thick to form a t-case shifter boot, but i have thinner rubber already that should work well for that. its not long enough to cover the gap caused by raisng my body 3" above my rear bumper, but thats ok, i should really raise my rear bumper rather than cover the gap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 There should be holes 3" higher in the frame to allow you to do that. You just use 1 less bolt. Still 2 bolts per side which is absolutely fine for the stock bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Simon- thats interesting. havent heard that yet. why is everyone doing modifications to raise the rear bumper then? i'll have a look on my truck. thanks for the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) well simon, it was just as you said pretty much. i raised my rear bumper using the 2 holes already found on my rear bumper bracket. one hole lined up perfect, the other hole didnt, i had to drill it out to make the holes match, and i had to cut the bracket in half that was used to hold the 2 bolts together at a specified space because the spacing wasnt right for the new holes, but it was minimal work, and it came out perfect. its perfectly straight, and looks like it came from the factory. thanks a lot for the tip. i was putting this off cause i didnt feel like cutting my bracket in half or flipping it, even though flipping it wouldnt be much work, it seems like it makes the bumper sit at a bit of an angle, i could be wrong though, i've only seen it in pictures... maybe i'll get a pic up if anyone cares to see how it looks. ahardb0dy- i did some internet surfing today and couldnt find a canadian retailer for rubber semi truck mud flaps, so i contacted the company you linked, and they want $80 shipping to mail me some mud flaps! unfortuantely i just cant do it. but it looks like they would be right for the job, so now i just need to find a canadian or local source... and now that i've raised my rear bumper, i really only need rubber for gap guards. i'll use the thinner rubber i have for the t-case shifter boot... i had a look under my t-case shifter today and there's also a rubber boot underneath, mines totally decrepit and ripping, so i'll replace that boot also, and have a kind of double boot. then i'll silicone the seam between the boot and floor, for both top and bottom boots, and again up top around the t-case shifter in the cab, and it should be really waterproof. i know water will come in through the doors if i really push it deep or sit in the water for long, but i could see the t-case boot being a point of access for water also. Edited August 1, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 it seems like it makes the bumper sit at a bit of an angle, i could be wrong though, i've only seen it in pictures... maybe i'll get a pic up if anyone cares to see how it looks. mine sits at a slight angle (top out a little more than the bottom IIRC, I'm used to it so don't honestly notice it anymore) and duh we want pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 I wasn't suggesting to order them thru the mail just wanted to show the price and what I was referring to. Do you have any truck dealers up there? Mack,kenworth,Peterbuilt,Sterling, Any truck repair shops or truck stops should have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 ahardb0dy- yeah, i know you suggested to find 'em locally. i'm sure we got a truck dealer here, probably several, but nothing came up on my google searches. i'll have to hit the yellow pages (forget if you guys have those or not? havent been to the states in 10 years almost, yellow pages=phone book). heard you got colored money now though. bey ya tons of stuff has changed, i used to spend tons of time there, but thats off topic... nunya- we'll get a pic up later, forgot how much you guys like pics, hehehe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 well simon, it was just as you said pretty much. i raised my rear bumper using the 2 holes already found on my rear bumper bracket. one hole lined up perfect, the other hole didnt, i had to drill it out to make the holes match, and i had to cut the bracket in half that was used to hold the 2 bolts together at a specified space because the spacing wasnt right for the new holes, but it was minimal work, and it came out perfect. its perfectly straight, and looks like it came from the factory. thanks a lot for the tip. i was putting this off cause i didnt feel like cutting my bracket in half or flipping it, even though flipping it wouldnt be much work, it seems like it makes the bumper sit at a bit of an angle, i could be wrong though, i've only seen it in pictures... maybe i'll get a pic up if anyone cares to see how it looks. i didnt cut or flip any brkts just htat stud-plate and moved it up to the holes there maybe they were different from the factory but i dont think so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 hope that helps! I've started writing out a "how-to" for the complete body lift install on a Terrano, but it will be awhile 'till i'm done yet. i have much better pics for the rest of the install, i only slacked at taking pics at the very end! lol mine not good enough? nah jk...i was in a hurry to get it done and missed a good bit but i think i did a lot better than PA...when your done hook steevo up with a copy of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 lol mine not good enough? nah jk...i was in a hurry to get it done and missed a good bit but i think i did a lot better than PA...when your done hook steevo up with a copy of it Yeah I was kinda disgusted when the PA instructions said "cut your floor to have 4 low again" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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