Slick Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) SO! I have been doing a LOT of thinking lately. (i know, right! brain burn!) those of you who know me and my rig will hopefully give me some sound input on this. I am seriously considering going with 35x11.5x15's on my next round of tires. Reason for this being it will help with my ground clearance issues. I have plenty of room now with my 33x12.5x15's in the rear, but up front they rub the inner fender at full lock on a bad angle. (i have cut front fenders to the max). now, my t-bars are very low due to alignment issues. but i will be getting the longer bolts so they can shim him out more, so i can lift my t-bars a good 2" more then. I don't want to go 10.5 width, narrowest i want to go is 11.5, personal preference. I think a huge part of my issue up front besides low t bars is the width of my tires, they are some wide ass tires. I will be getting the STT'again as I love them to death. my question is; stick with what i have (if i keep 33's, ima keep the 12.5 width), or go with the 35's? i am not even sure the 35's will work, or reduce my flex clearance so bad that they're a hindrance more than a help. Edited June 5, 2011 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zibi Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 I say why not? If you can get them to fit, go for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Stick with the 33" tires, fix the UCA bolt issue, crank it up as appropriate and enjoy. Bigger tires aren't always the answer... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I think your going to start breaking other components due to the weight of the tires personally. Check the weight differences between tires, and let us know. I'm curious myself. If you're rubbing with 33's due to the width, perhaps it can be addressed with different backspacing on rims. You're tires do look a little wider then 12.5 really and they look to be sticking fairly far out of the fenders then when I had mine. I used 3.75 and the only placed WI rubbed was on the front frame rail cause I took the knuckle bump stops off. (not advisable for those thinking about it after reading this) And also, for the cost of tires, and what not, perhaps it would be better to buy a cheap set of different UCA's, the front diff drop down bushings, and ditch the Trailmaster lift altogether? Perhaps it would be a better option if belly clearance is the ultimate problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 I think your going to start breaking other components due to the weight of the tires personally. Check the weight differences between tires, and let us know. I'm curious myself. If you're rubbing with 33's due to the width, perhaps it can be addressed with different backspacing on rims. You're tires do look a little wider then 12.5 really and they look to be sticking fairly far out of the fenders then when I had mine. I used 3.75 and the only placed WI rubbed was on the front frame rail cause I took the knuckle bump stops off. (not advisable for those thinking about it after reading this) And also, for the cost of tires, and what not, perhaps it would be better to buy a cheap set of different UCA's, the front diff drop down bushings, and ditch the Trailmaster lift altogether? Perhaps it would be a better option if belly clearance is the ultimate problem. i won't spend another penny on suspension mods as i am saving fro my SAS, which i hope to get done by next summer. yes, my tires really are 12.5's, but they are a WIDE 12.5 lol, i love them to bits, do great in everything (so-so in real bad mud), and will get another set. i dunno what my current BS is on these rims, they are 15x10's as well, a lot of people run 12.5's on 15x8 rims which makes a difference too... i am swaying towards keeping the size tire i have, but i will get the weights of the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I'd honestly say stick with 33s while your ifs, If you ran an 8"wheel I'd say skim to a 10.5 tire as well, but that ain't the case. BUT I know your gonna sas at some point and I'd personally be tryin to shove 35s under King too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Bigger tires aren't always the answer... B Bigger is always better!! Bigger tires, more power, bigger axles!! If you dont believe me just ask any pron director!! Or watch the Boneys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 save the 35 for the sas and a skinnyier tire does better in the nasty stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) save the 35 for the sas and a skinnyier tire does better in the nasty stuff i would go with a narrower tire if these fatties didn't do so well in everything BUT the real nasty mud. they are awesome in ice, snow,rain, loose dirt, and dry conditions, so of all those they have 1 fault..... deep, heavy mud, and i personally think it's my front end clearance that is the biggest issue. I think they also help stabilize the truck in turns (i have no rear sway bar). i was considering the 35's as i really have my heart set on having the SAS by next fall and don't want to buy ANOTHER set of tires if i chose to go with a 35 then. i am also looking for a VG33 to build up for more pony power, and an open diff for a locker. Edited June 6, 2011 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I'm betting the problem is the 15x10 wheels with whatever backspacing they have. I had my 33x12.5's on a 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing, and never had an issue at all. I wouldn't be concerned with running 12.5 on a 8" wheel either since I ran mine at 10 psi thru pretty crappy environments and never ever lost a bead. Perhaps the only thing to be weary of is maybe getting some sidewall scrapes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I'm with Dowser. You're running a 15x10 rim with very little backspacing. Switch out the rims, and your issues will vanish. Lots of people run 12.5" wide tires on 8" rims. Some even run them on 7" rims without issues. If you changed rims, to a less aggressive stance, you'd fit your 33's, or even narrow 35's. with minor trimming. People don't pay enough attention to rim backspacing when discussing tire fitment. It makes all the difference in the front end while turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 I'm with Dowser. You're running a 15x10 rim with very little backspacing. Switch out the rims, and your issues will vanish. Lots of people run 12.5" wide tires on 8" rims. Some even run them on 7" rims without issues. If you changed rims, to a less aggressive stance, you'd fit your 33's, or even narrow 35's. with minor trimming. People don't pay enough attention to rim backspacing when discussing tire fitment. It makes all the difference in the front end while turning. oh, i had put a lot of thought into the BS, but don't know which way to "go" with it. i have no idea the current BS on these rims, they are yota rims. i have been wanting different rims for a while, and will probably go with a 15x8, i just don't like how the 12.5's hang over the rim so much, i really like the look of the 15x10's with these tires, but again, when it comes down to it, if i do go 35's, they will have to be narrower and run on a narrower rim...... *le sigh* decisions decisions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I'd recommend 33x10.5LT15s on 15x7s. It minimizes rubbing, and will keep your IFS in more-or-less one piece, and keeps the track narrow so you don't have side-to-side clearance issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I say screw this 33 or 35 thing and slap on 44's on it ! ( I guess I had no opinions and needed to say something... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) I'd recommend 33x10.5LT15s on 15x7s. It minimizes rubbing, and will keep your IFS in more-or-less one piece, and keeps the track narrow so you don't have side-to-side clearance issues. my personal preference is 11.5 but i prefer the 12.5's, for a few reasons i have very little rubbing, even with my t bars dropped low, only when i am at a bad angle, full lock (my steering is not set very extreme) and i bounce. i have no width issues, i have gone everywhere anyone else has... remember, out here it is the land of the overgrown off roader. i am small in comparison i have yet to brake anything up front, i don't beat on my truck, and it's the 1 good thing about the trail master lift Edited June 9, 2011 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Stick with the 33" tires, fix the UCA bolt issue, crank it up as appropriate and enjoy. Bigger tires aren't always the answer... B I don't get why people need more spacers up top...when you crank the T-bars you need less spacers on the UCA to adjust camber...that said Slick...if you dont have any upgraded steering and i'm not talking idler arm brace...i'm talking chevy 1 ton, calmini or something other than oem I wouldnt run over a 33...i went from 33 12.50 to 33 10.50s...dont like skinnies but they're working alright for me with 35's you're going to destroy the front end if you crank the tbars...lesson learned from MOAB...cranking increases angles on TRE"s and causes easier bends (when traction is gained b/c i dont have that issue as frequently in mud or the granite rock here)...running 33 1250 R15's with 4-4.5" BSing and a panhard drop i rub the body/frame on the inside with full flex...i have installed 1.5" wheel spacers with my 8.50's and i dont seem to be bragging any frame or body front or rear (up front i am now b/c my t bars are at stock height with 33's to gain clearance either SAS or get rid of that trail master lift...personally i'd get rid of the TM lift all together b/c the way I wheel they would have been ripped off a long time ago...the jim conner racing bars had a 2.5" tall attachment on the trans Xmember and i broke it off on some pipes at Gulches making me go to calmini tbars...couldnt imagine dropping my tbars 4"....they'd be Eff'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Why not split the difference and get some 34" Super Swamper LTBs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 lesson learned from MOAB...cranking increases angles on TRE"s and causes easier bends So sayeth Tierod! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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