wilson Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 (edited) so Ive been running JGC springs in the rear of my truck for some time. I found these springs in the junkyard, I believe they were aftermarket as I was unable to identify them in the usual fashion. they are super beefy. they gave me a bunch of lift but the ride was rather harsh. so I got rid of them and replaced them with a pair of AC springs. The ride is MUCH better but the truck is stinkbuggin like crazy. I have a 3" suspension lift in the front and it way higher. I'm wondering if the springs will "relax" over time and lower the arse back down a bit. also I have to replace the short, flexible brake line that comes from the hard line to the T that splits to the back brake as it is too short. I only noticed this today after installing the second set of springs . scary. my question is what is the fitting/thread size that I 'm lookin for here? In the spirit of sharing the old springs are up for grabs for the cost of shipping. they would be great for someone that does alot of hauling/towing. Edited October 29, 2010 by wilson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 (edited) AC sells an extended brake line in varying lenghts just for that axle connection. For the record I bought XJ 3" lift springs from Rough Country and cut the pigtail off. They are the almost the spring rate (175/180 lbs per inch) same diameter, wire spacing and wire dameter as the oem springs but they stand 3" taller because they have more coils. (stock spring is 16.5" free and XJ3" lift is 19.5" with the pigtail cut off.) ALL aftermarket PATHFINDER springs are a higher spring rate. No stinkbug and no sag after a few years of having them on. Edited October 29, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside180sx Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 PM sent for JGC springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 what is stinkbug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Arse in the air drag racer stance... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I just ordered some Moog springs from Rockauto. I'm just trying to get some more firmness in the rear with less bounce. (I think that could be used in a rap song somewhere, lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I just ordered some Moog springs from Rockauto. I'm just trying to get some more firmness in the rear with less bounce. (I think that could be used in a rap song somewhere, lol) That should do the trick, the Moog replacements are progressive so they get firmer as the load increases. Let us know how you like em, I'm thinking about getting some for my 94. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Just last week I also ordered some Moogs. I'll post the results after I install them in my 95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 10-4. I should have them by Tuesday and in by the end of the week. I'll let everyone know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 One other thing......To install these springs, I only need a spring compressor right? Compress, pull out old one, uncompress, compress new one, pop it in, uncompress right? Are there any other tools or steps I need to do? The FSM only talks about dropping the whole 5-Link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I didn't use a spring compressor to change mine. Jack truck high in the air and put jack stands under frame in front of rear wheels. Support axle with floor jack and raise just a little before fully extended. Remove lower shock nut and pull the shocks off of the stud. Loosen all 8 bolts on the 4 links and the two on the panhard bar. (you will probably have to take off the diver side of panhard to remove shock.) Remove brackets that hold the E-brake cables. Remove 4 bolts that holds sway bar to axle. Lower axle until springs fall out. Put spring isolators on new springs and install them then jack axle back up to hold them in. Put shocks and panhard back on mounts then raise truck and remove jack stand and set it back on the ground. Now, at riding hight, tighten all the link bolts and replace the e-brake brackets and sway bar bolts. I've done this three times by myself and feel it's way easier and safer than messing with a spring compressor. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 (edited) don't forget, depending on how high you go, to disconnect your brake 'T' from the axle so it can flex and you parking brake anchors too. I needed to do so when installing my rough country springs. Edited November 4, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 I haven't done it (my ford springs are totally loose when the rear is jacked) but wow James, that sure SOUNDS harder than just attaching a spring compressor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 It's not. Try getting the spring compressor out of there after. THAT is a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 I haven't done it (my ford springs are totally loose when the rear is jacked) but wow James, that sure SOUNDS harder than just attaching a spring compressor... You must have never used a spring compressor! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Hey guys, I got it done, and without all those steps involved. All I did was jack the back end up as high as my jack stands would allow, dropped the lower shock mounts, put another jack under the diff to support it, jacked the truck up a little more on the rear cross-member with a bottle jack to get the wheels about 4-6 more inches off the ground. Lowered the jack under the diff till the axle was just starting to hang (no pressure on the springs anymore), then used a long prybar on the bottom of the springs to wedge them out, which was real easy. Pop'd the new ones in the same way the old ones came out (don't forget the boot on top of the spring) and all in like 30-45 min. taking my time. Thanks for the write up though JamesRich and everyone else. Now, how is the ride? Way better! No more bounce in the rear or body lean around corners. I only took one pic of the old/new spring side by side because the process itself was so easy and self explanatory. I gained 3/4 of an inch in the rear, so I need to bring the torsion bars up now too I guess, but it's hardly noticeable. Here's my pathy with the new springs. No more sag. Edited November 4, 2010 by Specv1973 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah, I admit to not having used a compressor Anyway, truck looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah you can do that with stock springs but the lift coils are much stiffer and wouldn't go in that way for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Yeah, I admit to not having used a compressor Anyway, truck looks great! If you like tuning a wrenh(litterally) for the sake of turning a wrench you should try it.weird angles and pinched fingers are common. we used a strut compressor on each side of my friends z28 springs and that was a little easier... so the moog had 9 winds instead of 7 and 4 of them are close spaced for progressive comfort and the rest are for ride height and load handling. NICE side by sid shot. 3/4" isn't much for a new stock height replacement you old ones may have sagged a bit and your new ones may need to settle in a little so the most important part is that it feels and drives better. The rear can be 0.5~1" higer to aid with polite road handling under loaded conditions. Edited November 4, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 A stock Pathfinder should sit around 3/4" lower in the front, for improved road manners and handling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah I kinda thought that too with the 3/4in. thing. I'll probably just leave it alone. Now I want some new wheels. Trying to save up for those or get a good craigslist deal. I want a nice offset. I like the look of wide wheels in the 31" sizes on these trucks, since I only have the P235/75R15's now. I saw one once it looked nice. I think they were Mickey Thompson Baja Claws on black steele's. I found some just like them recently on craigslist, but the guy sold them the day before I called. Story of my life....I know they would probably rub on the fenders bouncing around off-road, so they would mainly be for the street, and I would put some mud-terrains on the legos I have to swap for offroading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) 15x10's look great if they're just gonna be your street wheels. Not recomended for abuse on IFS tho. Edited November 4, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) MY1PATH said: (so the moog had 9 winds instead of 7 and 4 of them are close spaced for progressive comfort and the rest are for ride height and load handling. NICE side by sid shot.) SO, I'm a dumba$$. After reading your comment, I thought, wow, I didn't know that or notice that either. So I went out to the garage and looked under my truck. One spring is upside down So, I get to take it apart again tomorrow. I confirmed this by actually looking in the box for an instruction sheet and seeing a little folded up piece of paper stuck in the corner edge, unfolded it, and low and behold, the coils that are close together go towards the top, and the passenger side is not. Typical man I guess.......didn't think a simple part like springs would need instructions, much like an alternator or starter or battery wouldn't need any I thought. Live and learn I guess....... Edited November 4, 2010 by Specv1973 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 15x10's look great if they're just gonna be your street wheels. I agree! Exactly what I was thinking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 SO, I'm a dumba$$. After reading your comment, I thought, wow, I didn't know that or notice that either. So I went out to the garage and looked under my truck. One spring is upside down So, I get to take it apart again tomorrow. LoL nice. yeah the softer (closer)side goes to the body I think the theroy is that its not responding to the inertia of the rest of the spring so it gives a more comfortable ride... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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