wilson

right on, that sounds like what I got going on.

alkorahil, I recently pulled a blue 18 tooth out of the junk yard and found that it wont engage when I put it in my truck. I wouldn't say it was light blue, would an early blue 18 not work in a 94?

just kept smacking that that puppy. eventually came off.

yessir

I have a seized slide pin on the the passenger rear wheel. it is the top pin and is part my off. any suggestion other than pb blaster and beating the piss out off it? Ive also taken the rubber plug out of the inner side and have been shooting pb blaster n there as well.

nobody?

I just replaced my stock 20 tooth gear with an 18 tooth. as I suspected, the speedo now doesnt work. how can you change gear sizes without changing the spacing between axles the gears spin on? or am I missing the trick to get the gears to engage?

mounted a roof rack using well-nuts.so In reality I have (8) 1/2 in ch holes in the roof!!! hilarious. now I'm not sure I like this solution. I think the rubber areas will wear through over time with any serious weight up there on a bumpy road. I really just want to reduce the size if the holes, so Ican just put some smaller bolts through it. ahardbody where can I get that thing? it is exactly what I'm looking for!

you know of any good source that show how to do this?

its a clean hole.

So Ive done something stupid ...again. I'm now lookin for ideas to fill a 1/2" hole in my roof. I have no access to a welder. bondo?

yes! that is what I meant! haha. I too have 7 marks thanks for this info. its all coming together now.

awesome, the mark for TDC being 0, or the first mark on the flywheel?

Sorry, it is what the manual refers to as the left hand cam sprocket. meaning drivers side.

also I acquired a mechanics stethoscope and have pinpointed the noise to be coming from the timing belt cover nearest the left hand camshaft sprocket. this sounds bad, thoughts?

umm .. no. I just lined it up as close to possible to the way it came out.. what is the process to get the #1 cylinder to TDC? do I have to remove the plugs? can I turn it over with a socket and breaker bar? my flywheel has 7 lines and with the distributor cranked all the way in one direction I can only get the second from the left to line up So I assume the distributor installed incorrectly.

someone should make a bumpers sticker that reads " everything I know,I learned on NPORA". you guys kick ass

well I scored a distributor from the local JY. I put it in while trying hard to mantain the original timing. the truck now runs a little rough and lacks a little power. I assume the timing is now incorrect. am I right in assuming this? at this point i need to set the timing again. so I need a light. when I point it toward the crankshaft, I see the indicator(arrow) there. I loosen ahd turn the distributor till the timing is correct? what will I see when it is correct? I guess I'm asking how do I use a timing light. thanks in advance fellas FYI replacing the ditributor did not fix the noise. damnit.

I have four wheel disc. all the rear lines are braided steel. the fronts are stock. I thought about the balloning effect. I have felt the lines while someone was standing on the brakes. I saw/felt no balloning. what about the "plunger" that comes out of the booster? is this adjustable in some way?possible to elongate it so as to engage the master cylinder earlier? what would it feel like if the booster was going bad?

The other day I was driving way too fast down a dirt road when I discovered that my brake pedal went right to the floor! I hadnt' replaced the rear brake line since I lifted it and was waiting for the new line in the mail. I pinched the line quite badly and assumed that was the culprit. the line arrived and I replaced it and the master cylinder as it was leaking from the firewall side. now I gravity the system as suggested by the FSM: bench bled the new master cylinder abs/load sensor( gravity bled) -drivers rear -Pass rear -pass front -drivers front - re-gravity bled the ABS unit.this resulted in a firm pedal. heres the question. there is now more "play" in the pedal. meaning the active part of the stroke is further down. while the pedal is firm when it finally reaches said portion, it is a bit worry some. what could be the cause of this ???

are the front and rear disc brake pads the same?

so there is a bear the whole thing spins on below the cap? there is no need to replace the distributor? I feel up to the task for sure. I'm going to mexico with it so the peace of mind is neccesary.

me neither

yes, I did that. I saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it difficult to replace the distributor?

I've been chasing a noise that I thought was the A/C tension pulley. I've determined that it is coming from under the distributor cap. The noise sounds like a bad bearing sound, not high pitched but a kind of low pitch grinding that comes and goes. I jiggled the cables and that tends to initiate it but this is inconsistent. I took it off and saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it possible there is a bad bearing below the cap? The cap and rotor are relatively new, a year and a half. should I be worried? figures it starts a week before we leave for the Baja 1000.