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Drilling the pitman


SamTex
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Yall have any better methods of enlarging this hole to 5/8? I've already had the grassroots CL installed for a year or more, but I'm going for better results when modifying the pitman. I've pulled the steering box from my parts truck and want this hole to be perfect. The first time I did it I had to stop half way through and leave for work, my dad elected to "help" while I was gone and finished the drilling for me. The result was a hole that a 5/8 bolt would fit through, but was more or less "egged" allowing the bolt to wobble around. As the old saying goes, if you want the job done right.....ask NPORA

 

I really don't want to trash another $25 bit or chance a less than perfect result. Give me some options!

Edited by SamTex
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A drill press and a heavy vice if you have experience using one. Personally I had planned on using my mill to drill it out (indicate in the arm/hole, etc) but I could not remove the arm no matter what I tried... P...

 

Take it to a local/small machine shop and ask the guy how much...

 

B

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I have a drill press at my disposal and acess to a mill but quite simpy after doing the system the 2nd time...(used a drill press on pitman and mill on idler the first time)

I found the easiest route to be with a fresh Unibit it will pickup the original size and then step up in perfect increments to avoid binding or overheating. Just hit each side of the hole and then clean out the center with a regular drill bit. This was quick well centered and easy compared to my first try and the hole had allot less play.

 

Yes, a Very GOOD UniBit will run $30-$45+ but they are tough, turn thru cast metals like butter, great for enlarging holes while staying perfectly centered and you may find many more uses for them as well.

Edited by MY1PATH
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A drill press and a heavy vice if you have experience using one. Personally I had planned on using my mill to drill it out (indicate in the arm/hole, etc) but I could not remove the arm no matter what I tried... P...

 

Take it to a local/small machine shop and ask the guy how much...

 

B

I did mine on a mill. Used a 5/8 endmill with a .03 radius so it didn't want to grab. Indicated it in and just pecked my way through. Makes a nice round and very smooth hole.

James

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I've got a drill press, just not sure how I'll get that whole steering system up there, secure and level for a nice clean bore. Ha, I tried getting that arm off the first time, not even going to try that route again.

 

I looked at stepper bits too, couldn't find any that ended in 5/8, they kept going a few sizes larger. Time to use the internets for that perfect bit.

 

If all else fails I'll just find a machine shop. They'd probably do a better job anyway...

 

Thanks guys!!

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I looked at stepper bits too, couldn't find any that ended in 5/8, they kept going a few sizes larger. Time to use the internets for that perfect bit.

 

Like I said;

Just hit each side of the hole and then clean out the center with a regular drill bit. This was quick well centered and easy compared to my first try and the hole had allot less play.

 

As in stop at the 5/8 step on each side. this will leave you a small ridge in the center to overcome with a regular drill bit. I'm tellin ya, I've done all 3 methods and I prefer the Uni-bit for this one.

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Like I said;

 

 

As in stop at the 5/8 step on each side. this will leave you a small ridge in the center to overcome with a regular drill bit. I'm tellin ya, I've done all 3 methods and I prefer the Uni-bit for this one.

 

Rite on, I'll try that!

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remember that a drill bit doesn't drill a circular hole...its triangular...you will need to either ream it or plunge with an end mill...you can pick up a dial indicator to indicate center as B said and use a drill press as long as you verify that the bit is true to the table/vice

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:( nobody likes my uni-bit

As a machinist, no.

But I can see how it could work fine too. :shrug:

 

Unccp, and JamesRich even more, are correct about the proper 5/8 end mill in a mill approach. I simply said drill as that is what most people understand. Hell, I have the drill, end mill, boring head, reamer and mill in the garage to use if I could have just gotten the damn arm off!! P...

 

I hand drilled out mine with a 1/2 stub drill, then 5/8 and did a good enough job that it seems to be fine. :shrug:

 

Your idea is great in a "git-r-dun" manner and is not a bad thing other than having to drill from both sides which compounds alignment issues and is not a good recommendation to someone without experience.

 

TWENTY LASHES!!! :whip:

 

B

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:( nobody likes my uni-bit

I like unibits but in my experiences using them on anything but sheet metal dulls them out too quickly.

 

As a machinist, no.

But I can see how it could work fine too. :shrug:

 

Hell, I have the drill, end mill, boring head, reamer and mill in the garage to use if I could have just gotten the damn arm off!! P...

 

B

You spent too much money on milling tools to buy a good pitman arm puller? :D

I posted a picture of the snapon puller I used, comes right off. I pulled 3 off in the pick a part trying to find the right length arm for the duel box mod. I guess I have the advantage of being a broken mechanic, I have lots of good tools. Maybe if you didn't live on the other side of the country I could loan you some.

James

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LOL No, most of the stuff I have at home is cheap crap, intended for 'garage work'; the good stuff stays at work. I did use a pitman arm puller, but not the same quality/design you have. I seriously tried everything (heat, penetrating oil, shock, puller, etc) and then just gave up. I honestly think I'd rather just drill it out on the truck rather than pay $50-60 (IIRC) on a tool I will only use a few times in my life max.

 

<--- Cheap Bastage... :lol:

 

B

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