skulptr Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 i dont know how anyone has been doing their brakes and bearings without it, but i finally came across the tool number on nissanforums, thought i'd pass it on here. tool number is OTC7698 here she is, in all her glory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Looks easy enough to make... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Where do you get it from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 (edited) Where do you get it from? YES, there are all kinds of tool numpbers in the FSM but many of them cannot be had anymore or are extemely hard to get For example; KV10110600(J339B6) the vavle spring compressor that bolts where the rocker shaft goes so you don't have to pull the head to change vavle springs. Yeh good luck finding that one. Better off making one of your own. Edited September 24, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Snap-On makes all of Nissan's specialty tools. Go figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 /\/\/\/\ Yep, I forked over $85 for my 4wd lock nut tool and that was from a dealer that cut me all sorts of breaks and about 6 years ago at that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 just google the tool number, i found the socket for $20 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Not the same part #, but I sent this one to Grim Greg a couple years ago for secret santa... http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panbacca Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I ended up using a very light touch, and a screwdriver. haha... Tedious, but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyV Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 (edited) Dude! I just did my pads/rotors last Friday and drove 30 miles to pick up this. I've been sporadically searching for the FSM tool for the last 2 years. I contacted the dealer, snap-on and all sorts of other manufacturers/distributors to get the tool in the FSM and no dice. The dude from the dealer was using the same tool shown above. The socket would be 100x better mainly because it can be torqued to speck and backed off. Plus negotiating my tool when the nut is recessed back onto the hub is a pain. Edited September 27, 2010 by EmptyV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I ended up using a very light touch, and a screwdriver. haha... Tedious, but it worked. Same method I have been using on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maikan Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I ask for this tool from NAPA and they said that it was worth 60 $ so I hang up ashame of my poverty. But seriously 20 bucks is the kind of money I have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 If I ever get my welder I will make a bunch of these things, cheap ones for refresher practice before get into bigger things; a pipe and 2 rods sticking out and witha nut welded to the back for a wrench to grabb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I'm going to look into grinding down a socket so just the two prongs remain. Does anyone have the dimensions (ID, OD, height, width)? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyV Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I'm going to look into grinding down a socket so just the two prongs remain. Does anyone have the dimensions (ID, OD, height, width)? B Well the pins shouldn't be any wider then 1/4" in diameter. I'm not sure aboout the offset though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qx4donald Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Not to re-raise the far-away-and-long-ago thread... but... I searched Amazon.com for th OTC7698 tool in the original post, found this info: Amazon.com OTC7698 $35 Application description identifies this for: 1988-newer Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Amigo, and pickup; 1989-newer Honda Passport; and Jeep J20 pickups with Dana 60 axle On Autozone.com, I also found a corresponding tool: Autozone.com, Sunex Spindle Tool (part# SUN10202), $15 And it's application description identifies it for: 1988-1995 Isuzu trooper, rodeo, amigo and pickups, 1985-1989 Honda passport and Jeep J20 pickups with Dana 60 axle Not to be soo "n00b" and use application descriptions to judge a tool, but I figure since both are used for the Dana 60 axle, that it should be the same dimensions... Edited June 8, 2011 by Qx4donald Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I'm pretty sure I got a chevy one from checker and ground down 2 of the 4 prongs then had to grind the remaining to just a little to get them to fit. It was only $15 at checker/oreilley and did the job well. So if you're in a pinch and can't wait a couple of days to order one in like I was, this works like a charm and is much easier than the screwdriver approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 You dont even need this to service the wheel bearings.....id rather spend 15 bucks on beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qx4donald Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 You dont even need this to service the wheel bearings.....id rather spend 15 bucks on beer how do you torque it to seat the bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 how do you torque it to seat the bearing? The procedure should be in the FSM. The general idea is to install the bearing, torque it tight (50 ft-lbs?), rotate the wheel a few times each way to work out any play, then loosen and tighten the locknut as usual (i.e. barely at all). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qx4donald Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 The procedure should be in the FSM. The general idea is to install the bearing, torque it tight (50 ft-lbs?), rotate the wheel a few times each way to work out any play, then loosen and tighten the locknut as usual (i.e. barely at all). sorry, I was a bit ambiguous with my question. My intention was not to know "how" to do it, but I wanted to know how 01silverpathy did it without the tool... I know the wheel bearing needs to be seated via torquing the locknut, but was wondering if 01silverpathy had a trick to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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