Precise1 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Ok, remove the defective unit and tap the metal housing moderately a few times against a solid metal object. FYI, the top pump is for the rear, the bottom/harder to get to one is for the front. Plug in the connector and test it for function by holding it in your hand and activating the switch. It will either function normally, not function but clunk internally ever so slightly (this is why you are holding it in your hand, so you can feel it) or do nothing what so ever. If the results are the last two, try this. Remove the 3 screws in the end of the impeller housing and remove the end cap. You will need the EXACT size philip driver!! I had the pump in a vice and used a right angle ratcheting hex bit driver and went through 4 bits before I found the right one. The impeller just slips over the motor's output D shaft. Try turning the impellor by hand. It's frozen, isn't it?? With some precision needle nose pliers, grasp the D shaft and try to turn it. If you aren't careful or the D shaft refuses to turn and you bugger it up, throw it away, the motor is seized. If it turns a little, keep rotating it one way and another and it will loosen up some. Put the impeller on and use it to spin the shaft a bit more. Remove the impeller, plug the motor in and actuate the switch. It's spinning, isn't it?? Clean, reassemble and reinstall. There is a seal around the shaft and it may be getting tired, allowing moisture into the motor and freezing it up or it may just be age. Just thought this might help people who's pump 'doesn't work', just like the junk yard item I picked up today. A little messing with it and it runs like a champ now... BTW, I grabbed the two motors today because a few people had been asking me for them in my part out thread. Anyone want to buy a set of tested/working washer motors? check out the parts for sale section. B BTW, the motor/end cap orientation depicted above is correct for assembly. If you are looking at the bottom of the assembly with the electrical connector pointing up, the fluid input pipe should point to the right. I almost goofed that... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Awesome! I too have the blues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Well Mr. Machinist and Precice... what size phillips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Well, the bit says #1, but it was the 4th of that size that I tried, since different manufacturers don't even come close to the same size with blunt tip diameters, flute depths and fin angles. Here is a picture of a dime to make you feel rich happy... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 the problem I had with mine was the rubber seal on the plastic bottom part was leaking badly but the 2 I got from the junkyard solved that problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 There is a seal on the bottom and a 45* for it to seat against. The right size o-ring would work fine also. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Crap.....I just spent 120 bucks for a whole new tank from Nissan. A day late and a dollar short it seems.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Is that the dealership behind you in your avatar?? Sorry bud, I left the tank behind but I could have gotten 3-4 of them yesterday... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 hahaha.....good one Precise1....might as well be I guess....the tank came with both pumps brand new too.....I'm sure this will out last the truck though and end up on someone elses down the road....oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocknforchrist Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Great write up Precise1! Mine haven't worked since Ive owned it and decided today was a good day to fix it. After taking both motors out both shafts were stuck solid! So i took apart the motor completely and gave them both a heavy dose of WD-40. After some turning and working back and forth they both became free again and the WD removed all the rust and debris that was causing the problem. Then i went ahead and scuffed the motor contacts up and put some lithium grease on the input and output of both shaft surfaces. Put them back together and tried them out before reinstalling and they work good as new! Again thanks for the "Do it yourself" info and keep those ideas coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 You are welcome but you actually went farther with it than I did. No pictures though?? Thanks for the written description though. I considered disassembling it all the way but the only way I could see to do that is bend back the 3(?) metal tabs that that crimp onto the plastic impeller housing and I was afraid of breaking something. Is this what you did?? No problems?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Will pumps from another Nissan work? I'm tired of trying to find some in the scrap yard and I'm not ready to pay the $120 yet, but glad that still is an option. The local pick a part has some newer sentras and maximas, think they will be the same? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 Ok, just got this from RockAuto's web site. ACDELCO Part # 86726 washer pump: $20.79 HONDA PASSPORT DX (1994 - 1996) HONDA PASSPORT EX (1994 - 1997) HONDA PASSPORT LX (1994 - 1997) ISUZU RODEO (1991 - 1997) NISSAN 240SX (1989 - 1993) NISSAN 240SX LE (1991 - 1992) NISSAN 240SX SE (1989 - 1993) NISSAN 300ZX (1984 - 1989) NISSAN 300ZX 2+2 (1984 - 1989) NISSAN 720 PICKUP 1986 NISSAN D21 PICKUP (1986 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP SE (1991 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP XE 1994 NISSAN PATHFINDER (1987 - 1992) NISSAN PATHFINDER LE (1994 - 1995) NISSAN PATHFINDER SE (1990 - 1995) NISSAN PATHFINDER XE (1990 - 1995) NISSAN PICKUP (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP KING CAB XE-V6 1996 NISSAN PICKUP SE (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP SHORT BED XE (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP XE (1995 - 1996) Please refer to catalog for application details. I looked at the set I have out, and while the motor appears the same, the wiring connectors and intake/outlet ports on the bottom are quite different so I don't know what the hell they are talking aboot. The one pictured looks like it is the bottom (front) pump. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 That's what Happened to me Precise when I bought a After market no name brand meant for us. Everything was there but the electrical connector was in a place so that it wouldn't fit on the reservoir without some dinking around. they are NOT the same. which is the reason I've been looking for a factory one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 I'll ship them next week, I promise... It's just been hectic lately. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 I went to pick a part today and pulled a couple Nissan pumps. A 94 maxima and I think a 96 sentra. Both pumps were exactly the same. Then I went home and compared them to my pumps. The main pump is basically the same. The only difference is two plastic clips on each side of the pathfinder pump wiring plug that help hold it to the reservoir. On the cars the tank was molded to hold the pump but other than that it was exactly the same. I stuffed it in the rubber grommet and I'm pretty sure it wont fall out. The rear pump motor is probably the same but has a different plug and the pump is totally different so no go unless your motor is bad and you want to switch the pump to the good motor. Cut the wiring harness off the car you get the motor from. At least now I will be able to clean my windshield. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 All good man. I'm in no hurry since I'm still on Jack Stands. Just one of a 1000 Pathfinder projects to complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACEX2 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thanks for the advice. I took everything apart. But they both aren't the same motors correct? The one you pictured is for the front. The one for the back was completely different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANDY Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 thanks B for the info got mine working took 5 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Mine was seized, but I got it working. It's not that much more work, just a little more disassembly, and shining up the shaft and the commutator. Just be careful of the brushes, and make sure you remember how it all goes back together. I put a little oil on the bushings when I reassembled it and it's still kicking a year or two later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Cool, glad you had the easy fix scenario. I just messed with it one day and can't see why anyone with screwdriver would not at least trying the same before going to the stealership or without... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 fixed mine just now! ran some wd40 down the shaft of the motor cuz just turning it wasnt helping. and now its fine! it zings! lol. sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I fixed mine a little while ago (rear wiper) and it was a different pump that had a rubber impeller (yeah soft rubber). It works now but it sounds like a bag of cats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 funny I see this now. I just spent about a half hour fixing 3 pumps, just like I'd fix my starter motor. remove the screws and the lower cap, slip the impeller off, bend the three tabs out straignt(if not straight, you may have some issues slipping the electrical connector off. Pull the black part off of the shaft. You will probably have some difficulty with this since this is where the issue is typically. As you pull on the black part, press the shaft into it so you don't remove the commutator yet. If you can't do this, you will need to sneak inside and spread the brushes to allow the commutator to come out without bending the brushes. Once this is out, slide out the electrical connector ring/assembly that holds the brushes. You can then remove the commutator easily. The repair: Clean the shaft of the commutator that holds the impeller. There was a bit of rust buildup on all three of mine due to leakage past the shaft. Turn your attention to the black insert that the shaft goes through. Clean all the rust off of it and run a tiny brush or twisted paper towel end through the small opening to remove all the buildup. Clean the brush area on the commutator to bale sure there is no carbon buildup in the contact slots. Dab a little silicone grease on the impeller shaft and use a wire or toothpick to get a little bit into the opening. Slip the impeller shaft into the black part and make sure it turns freely. Remove it. Add a touch of grease to the top bearing in the metal cap that holds the magnet and insert the commutator. Carefully insert the electrical connector and brushes, taking care to spread the brushes as you get them into their final position and not get any grease on the surfaces. I gave a tiny bend to the brushes to give them better contact but this is probably not necessary. Once the commutator and the connector/brushes are in place, make sure there is still a touch of silicone on the impeller shaft and slip the black part on. Before bending the tabs, I used clips to jump from the pump conncetor to the harness and held the motor as I tested it by pulling the washer lever. If all works, bend the tabs down, insert the impeller and screw the base back on. You can smear a little silicone or some RTV on the bottom (or a tiny o-ring) to help it seal, then put the screws back in. You should now have a working pump. It doesn't take long and it beats the hell out of paying for a new one or not being able to wash your windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldone Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) Inside picture of front motor Tips for Newbies The pumps are both attached to the Windshield Washer tank To remove the tank it take three screws best to use an extension with 10mm socket, a Phillips if really in a bind. You will need to pull two hoses. Need to crimp down with needle nose on the two plastic barbs to get it from tank. On the motor itself I used a #1 from a jewelry screwdriver set without issue. Needle nose to pull up the three metal tabs. Edited December 22, 2016 by Baldone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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