rocknforchrist

I'm just gonna throw this out there and say 2010 was a good year for Pathfinder pics! Great job everybody who was nominated!

I use Rain-X on all my clients cars(detail) and have used it for years on my own vehicles. Most days it rains here i dont have to use my wiper blades at all. And also in the winter time here in SW Missouri it aids with ice removal. Also good for door seals to keep them from becoming froze to your doorjamb. As far as wiper blades Rain X Anco and Bosch all seem to hold up the same esp with all the ice we get during the winter. But the Anco's dont take the summer heat well...bought a new pair for the Galant this summer and they were torn in just acouple of weeks!

Yeah I'm not gonna put 5qts in it! Well I put a ground wire on it from chassis to the plug and it fixed it. So I dunno what happened but I know since I've owned it it's not been connected so go figure.

Since Ive owned it never seen a wire connected to it? I thought it was just a ground wire anyways?

Last night my oil light kept flickering on the way home! On straight roads is would occasionally flicker and corners it would stay on. So my first guess is low on oil......wrong. Just emptied the oil into a measurable container and got out 3.5qrts. Any ideas?

Anybody have any favorite or tested brands of coolant additives. Interested to see if there is anything out there to prolong antifreeze and prevent rust.

No none at all. I dumped the system before i started. You could see it there sitting in the neck but i never even got a drop on me. Its nice were having an "Indian summer" here right now and these 70deg days make pre winter maintenance a must! Couldnt imagine doing all of that with a foot of snow on the ground! Now i'll be able to pullout the people who get stuck and broke down this winter because of lack of maint and they will be warm and toasty sitting in my warm pathy

Thanks K9sar! Well i got done putting in the thermostat and man did it make a huge difference! The heat was luke warm to cool so i knew what i had to do but didnt realize it was making my pathy run so cold. The temp gauge never got off the cold line even after several hrs of driving this summer to camp site. And it always ran kinda crappy at highway speeds..no power a little chugging. My thermostat was not opening up and therefore engine never getting to proper operating temp. So changed it out and it was covered in rust! The previous owner didn't apparently see the need for changing coolant. Got everything back together and let her run for about 5-7 min. Temp gauge started climbing and the heat was working great...like it would run you out of there! So went for a drive an instantly noticed alot less chugging and more power at 60-75 mph. Great! Funny how something so simple could cause all that! Anyways here are pics of the process just in case someone needs a hand. took off idler pulley bracket after removing lower radiator hose removed thermo housing, very tight space! the old thermo was caked in rust and a black gunk! looks like an OE part w 200K! all parts cleaned and ready to go back on clean area good to get gasket material to stay on! And install jiggle valve in Up position all put back together and ready to fill and bleed system for air now here's where my temp is running and heat works great!

Accidentally deleted a file my FSM was in. Anybody got a link to download it again? Changing my thermostat today and i have my Chilton handy but would also like to look at the FSM. Also i know its not a hard task but would anyone care for a how-to pics included on this subject....couldnt find one on here.

520! Oh man im glad i did it myself! I couldnt afford that right now. Was that cost for the headers too?

How did you pull injector plugs underneath the plenum? I could get to the front one under there but not the back two. And all the ones i checked so far are working.

Yeah im going through the same thing now. Except mine stills runs.....like crap but it runs. No power up hills on the highway and kinda chugs at 65mph at 2400 rpm. Same CEL 51. Just need to check it out this week.

Well finally the weather has cooled down here and that means taking care of my pathfinder. Been dreading fixing the broken exhaust studs but figured i'd give it a shot. After breaking all the nuts loose (much PB Blaster!) I found that the front 2 were broke flush with the head and the others except one had been replaced with grade 8 studs. I don't have a body lift so space was very tight! Went to work and got a 6inch long 1/8 inch drill bit. Drilled about .2 deep in both broken studs. Used a torx head bit drove into the studs to remove them. They actually came out fairly easy! Once again the pathy is quiet, so hope this helps somebody. Here's some pics of the tools I used. http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/Pat1475/IMG_0435.jpg http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/Pat1475/IMG_0436.jpg http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp20/Pat1475/IMG_0437.jpg

Yeah the switches are working sometimes but for sure cant leave my dome light switch on door position. Ive came out 2 different times to a dead battery! And yes im running on spare rims....they were on there when i traded for it waiting to by some crager soft8's and BFG TA/KO's.

Need to find the switches for the dome light on my pathy. Did some searching for a part but haven't come up with anything yet. Is this a dealer part or a junkyard only part? Or can they be rebuilt?

Great write up Precise1! Mine haven't worked since Ive owned it and decided today was a good day to fix it. After taking both motors out both shafts were stuck solid! So i took apart the motor completely and gave them both a heavy dose of WD-40. After some turning and working back and forth they both became free again and the WD removed all the rust and debris that was causing the problem. Then i went ahead and scuffed the motor contacts up and put some lithium grease on the input and output of both shaft surfaces. Put them back together and tried them out before reinstalling and they work good as new! Again thanks for the "Do it yourself" info and keep those ideas coming!

Thanks for idea MY1PATH! Anybody else?

Hey fellas! Looking for a o-ring kit for my fuel injectors. Did some searching online and ebay but not sure what i need in a kit? Anybody have any good ideas for a good o-ring kit,and besides the upper manifold gasket what else should i consider changing out while ive got the manifold off?

You can check your connections to the gauge but I bet it's just bad. Our vehicles are pron to gauge problems. I just replaced my speedo because it was doing the same thing. Your best bet is to look on eBay or search the junk yards for one.

Yeah I got the same problem with mine. Cel code 51 and going up a hill doing 60 it has a hard time without shifting down. Might be a leaky injector. I haven't pressure tested mine yet but did a full tune up, plugs, wires,distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter. Didn't help but now I know it's not that.

Yeah Redneck Engineering is just a way of life here in SW Missouri. Trust me there will be more ideas coming on fixes on the "cheap". I'm all about replacing it with new OE if it needs it but stuff like this requires a little imagination to rethink.

Yep it is! Money's still tight right now and every little thing i can do to keep my pathy on the road and running im gonna try and do it myself! My kids education and house payments are way more important than a 30 boot. So i thought id just share with everyone a cheaper way to do it.

Yeah id thought about that but decided that about as many times as i go underwater were few and far between. And i did put another piece on top of the stick just to ride over the area that was cut. Not a permanent repair but one definitely on the cheap and good for my 30 mile trip to work.