Toby Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 What is the easiest way to remove the axle from the front differential? I can't seem to figure out an easy way to removing the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 would help to know if your working on the front or the back. the back is super simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 he said the front differential Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 he said the front differential ooooops.. missed that, I'll shut up now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 For the hub side, you'll have to unbolt the hub, and probably the upper ball joint and tie rod end, to get the outer CV out of the hub. Then for the diff side, just a ratchet with and extension, loosen the bolts and it'll come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 This is what I removed: 4wd hub snap ring upper ball joint tie rod end shock absorber. Be careful the cv at the diff is attached with 12 point bolts. That other stuff should come apart in minutes if everything isn't rusted together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Yeah I didn't have time to wait days to get a response. A regular ratchet will NOT get the bolts off the front differential. If it isn't the axle spinning it's the lack of room with the T-bar in the way. I used an impact gun and got it pretty well. My bolts were old and rusted so I gotta get new ones. But not a big deal. It's already removed on the hub side. Just gotta get it out. Removing the tie-rod is not an option. Don't have time. Might just try with the shock removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Removing the tie rod end takes less time than removing the shock. One nut, pop it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 removing the Tie rod wouldn't do anything anyway. I am in the process of trying to remove the shock. That's being a pain right now because the top bolt keeps spinning. Hold the shock cover or whatever and the bolt/nut still spins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 So update. Had to cut the shock off. The bolt was seized and broke off the top off the shock. I'll have to get a new one. I tried to get the Tie-Rod end off but it will not come off. So needless to say i'm stuck again. I'm about ready to just junk this thing as it's spent the better part of the month in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I wish mine was only in the garage for a month. Its been over a year for me now. But that's because I rarely have time to tinker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) Get the rod off... get 2 2lb+ hammers. (best if you have a 4Lb and a 2.5LB mini hammer) spay the tapered shaft of the TRE with PB blaster Place one hammer firmly on one side of the tapered hole (not the TRE itself) Rap the opposite side with the other hammer. Do this from sveral differant directions. You should feel the shock jump your stationary hammer, try to keep it firm. if you have 2 wieghts make the heavier one stationary. This will shock the part (free hopefully) and help the PB penitrate. If your lucky the taper will jump outa the hole but more than likely you will go back to your separator or picle fork and it will pop apart then. Edited July 6, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Well damn. This isn't sounding all that pleasant. I got the axle most the way out without removing the tie-rod end but it's not moving anymore. So removing the tie rod would've needed to be done. This truck is a pain in the ass lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 i find it's helpful to clean everything up and spray all the bolts down with lube for a couple days prior to doing the job. I tried to leave the tie rod on the first time i replaced a CV, but i found it's much easier if you remove the tie rod. If you my1path's method doesn't work, leave the castle nut 3/4 of the way threaded on the end of the tre, and give it a couple hits with the hammer from underneath. The castle nut will protect the tre threads from the hammer impacts. The pickle forks are pretty harsh on parts. I use it as a last resort when taking off old worn out BJ's and TRE's If you have manual locking hubs, lock the opposite side wheel and put the t-case lever in 4-hi - that will hold the axle still while you loosen the bolts that hold it on the diff. when you need to rotate the CV to access the other bolts, just unlock the hub again, put it back in 2wd and turn the axle by hand until you can get a socket on the rest of the bolts. then lock the hub and put it back in 4wd. Same goes for tightening them back up. take a break if you get frustrated. I usually have to when it's time to pull the old axle out and put the new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Autozone has cheap (around or less than $20) shocks Gabriels I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 we don't have an autozone here. I'm paying about $24 for it I think. But the whole deal is ridiculous. I have the worst luck. After this junk Nissan put into my suspension I had a hydraulic clutch line blow in the S10 today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hmm..never pulled TREs to get CVS out...to tighten and loosen at the different I always lock my hubs and use a wrench and spinning the wheel to break them free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 You gotta pop the tie rod end off the spindle to get the axle out. The FSM says it IIRC. So does everyone here it seems. I can't get it out any other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 So the tie rod end is DEFINITELY not coming off. So plan B: remove the spindle. I removed the spindle from the UCA and tried from there but i'm hitting the shock mount. I gotta remove it from the LCA I believe now. But it'll be a little bit until I get around to that because trying to slide the axle out it slipped out of my one hand and smashed my other hand between the axle and the spindle. So needless to say I got a nice bit of swelling in my hand. typing probably isn't the best but I got ice on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbdevega Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 lol, wow this reminds me of the first time i changed my cv's, toke me almost 2 days. Ive found the easy way to remove the CV is to pop the upper ball joint and TRE off the knuckle, remove the shock, lean the knuckle way forward and slide the CV out using the extra room where the shock would normally be. if that doesnt work then just pop the lower ball joint and pull the whole knuckle out of there, just be careful not to ruin the ball joint boots. as for the diff side, i think i had the best luck with a short socket and a 6" extension. I have to break a bolt loose then rotate the CV to break another loose. having manual hubs helps a lot here, in fact i would recommend removing these bolts first, all you have to do is put the truck in 4wd engage the hub, break the bolt loose, free the hub, turn the cv, engage hub and break another bolt loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 tie rod ends aren't coming off at all. I've tried and tried. I haven't tried from the knuckle yet. Either way this has been a nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 where are you located? most part stores have a tool loaner program. If you are in Canada, go to a partsource, they loan tools for free; all you need is a credit card. Go and borrow a tool like this: tie rod end tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 PA. And there's no loaner tool things around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 They aren't expensive you could just buy one. Before I got one I just smacked the part of the knuckle where the tie rod is a few times with a 5lb sledge and it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 well im already in the process of removing the spindle from the control arms lol. So it's a bit late. I'm only trying to get it fixed to sell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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