More Clutch Problems

[martin_nv]

Hi guys,

I've been having some bad truck luck lately. Now my clutch is acting up again, I push the pedal to the floor but it won't disengage the clutch. 2 days ago it was fine, yesterday I started noticing it a bit but could still drive it, but today I can't drive it. I had the clutch replaced about 2 months ago, and the symptom at that time is exactly the same as now.

 

I plan on getting it towed to the mechanic next week, but today is Sunday and I have time to look at it. Is there anything obvious that I can check?

Thanks,

Martin

[adamzan]

Last time I had that problem (on an isuzu rodeo) it turned out the master or slave cylinder went out. Can't remember which.

[nunya]

had both a master AND a slave (at different times) cause that issue. Try bleading it to make it driveable to get to your shop/parts store. Either way is a simple job with nothing more than a couple hand tools and a buddy to pump while bleadign the system.

[martin_nv]

Looking at it further, there is some fluid leaking on the inside where the shaft from the clutch goes into the engine compartment.

Also, at the drivers-side rear of the engine compartment, there is a small reservoir that is empty. Is this the slave cylinder? Can I just fill it up or is it more involved?

Thanks.

[nunya]

thats the clutch master cyl. Fill it and bleed it will give you temporary fix, but replacement is the correct choice. Don't recall them being verry expensive and it's 2 nuts a clip @ the clutch pedal, 1 line and the bleed process.

[martin_nv]

thats the clutch master cyl. Fill it and bleed it will give you temporary fix, but replacement is the correct choice. Don't recall them being verry expensive and it's 2 nuts a clip @ the clutch pedal, 1 line and the bleed process.

Thanks nunya, I'll fill it and hopefully it will be enough for me to drive it to the shop.

[unccpathfinder]

yep that's a bad clutch master cylinder...mine is currently doing it and i'm cheap fixing it by refilling but eventually the Oring will let go completely...i've had a slave cylinder go bad too (its down on the transmission and converts they hydraulic pressure into mechanical work by pushing the fork to disengage the clutch

[martin_nv]

I replaced the fluid, pumped the clutch a few times, and now it's drivable again, woohoo!

 

Now I'm wondering how hard it is to replace the clutch master cylinder, is there much to it?

 

Thanks everyone for your help, this is a great community!

[Precise1]

No, it is not hard at all. The hardest part is getting under the dash to work on it.

 

The basic steps is to

1)remove the old MC. 1 line, 2 nuts and washers, and some sort of pin on the clutch pedal.

2)Bench bleed the new MC. Fill the resevoir, plug the two output lines with your fingers and pump the piston shaft until all of the bubbles come out and you have sprayed brake fluid everywhere (someone will probably tell you of a better way).

3)Install the MC. Snug the two mounting nuts, install the line, install to the clutch prdal and set the free play per the manual.

4) Bleed the slave cylinder and the anti-something device on the passenger firewall.

 

Done!!

 

B

[Alkorahil]

[dkpath96]

My clutch has roughly 75k miles on it, and I put a new clutch slave cylinder on about 45k miles ago. I am noticing now that the clutch pedal has more play in it - I can depress it over half way until it engages/disengages - than before. The master cylinder reservoir fluid level was down to just below the MIN mark, so I topped it off, but am thinking one of the cylinders is going bad again.

 

Any way for a layman like me to tell if it's the master or slave?

[ZombeeXXX]

In my experience, they wear out at roughly the same pace. I mean they get used up at the same rate, and any remaining contaminants in there will degrade the new parts sooner. Replacing both master and slave at the same time cost me $45 plus fluid. RockAuto.com is your friend, I have their Rhino pac cylinders on both my vehicles. Also with both cylinders removed you can drain/blow out with air all the nasty black old fluid. True value has some tubing that will fit over the bleeders if you take your new slave in it would make it easier. Get a few feet, you can always cut some off. stick the other end in your container of brake fluid, open the bleeder and work the pedal until you see nice clear fluid coming out.

 

For bench bleeding, the new master has one (1) outlet and should come with a plug in it. Add only a bit of fluid to the reservoir for this as you will dump a lot out trying to install it later. Simply hold the plug with your thumb as tight as you can and you can use a wall joist or door frame to push the rod against, just make sure it is straight or it can bind. You will need 10 mm flare nut wrench for all the tubing fittings, a big brake fluid supply is good. Tiny fingers help, but it is an afternoon job with a buddy.

 

Get a haynes to see pictures, but it is just 2 bolts and tubing fitting on each cyl. Also, for me it was easier to unscrew the rod from the bracket on the pedal than to remove/reinstall that damn pin.

[Precise1]

You may have a leak. Look for the obvious, a leak. Either dripping or just freshly wet dust near the seals.

 

Other than that, you may want to bleed the clutch system, it is not hard at all and may release some trapped air and firm up the pedal. Remember though, over this time your pressure plate has relaxed and the clutch has worn so you cant expect a brand new crisp feel anymore.

 

B

[dkpath96]

Well, I went to move my vehicle today, and the clutch went right to the floor and did not return.

 

The slave cylinder is leaking around the gasket, so that's the obvious point of failure.

 

Any differences between Dorman, Wagner, Rhinopac, Beck-Arnley brands other than warranties?

Edited August 4, 2010 by dkpath96