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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST


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Everything posted by dkpath96

  1. I cleaned and tightened the neg cable tonight. I can still get the cable to turn a little even with the clamp screwed on to its max. In other words, I can't get it super tight. But, for the first time, the clock and radio presets were remembered, at least for a few minutes. It seems to forget them when I start the vehicle. Could it be that when I start the vehicle, the battery shakes a little and loses connection just enough to reset stuff? This seems absurdly improbable to me, but I can't think of any other way with the evidence I now have.
  2. Ok, I will check and tighten the battery cable. The dealer wants to try a software upgrade, then possibly replace the radio unit. Thankfully, all under warranty.
  3. I recently entered the world of R51 ownership, after 12 years of driving the R50. My family is growing, and 3rd row seating was a priority. We got a 2011 SV. On the way home, I set the radio presets and adjusted the clock. When we stopped for dinner that night, we climbed back in and started down the road, then noticed that the presets were gone and the clock was wrong. No matter how many times I set these, they get reset to factory after turning off the vehicle. I checked the battery storage fuse/switch to make sure it was not in "storage" mode. Beyond that, I have no ideas. Anyone have suggestions before I return to the dealership next week?
  4. While changing belts today, I noticed that I could slide the harmonic balancer's outer ring in towards the engine by a half inch or so. Does this mean it is shot?
  5. How easily should the PS pump pivot after loosening its bracket and tensioner bolts? I can't seem to get it to budge.
  6. So, this will be the second time my right front caliper has seized in the past two years on my 99.5. I had an older '96 and had to replace both front calipers on it. For some reason, I thought Nissan had fixed this problem with the R50 when they redesigned. Anyone have recommendations on a brand or make of caliper that won't seize up so often?
  7. Hi, I am shopping for a clutch kit for my 1999.5 Pathfinder. Every online parts site I've been on does not have 1999.5 as a 'year' option, and I just wanted to make sure it was safe to select the 2000 model year. I've been getting two different clutch kit model numbers between 1999 and 2000. Pretty sure 2000 will work, but... Also, any OEM kits out there that I should avoid?? Thanks!
  8. dkpath96

    Power Windows

    Anyone know where to find a switch for a 2000 SE, other than a dealer? Can't find one online. never mind, found it.
  9. dkpath96

    Power Windows

    So i should check the wiring from the switch to the motor then, right?
  10. dkpath96

    Power Windows

    Just now encountering a similar problem, where the passenger door window switch will put that window down, but not up. The master switch will put that window back up, though. I removed the switch, and the wiring harness has 12 volts on the 2nd and 4th wires, if I recall correctly, from the white wire. The switch has continuity between the power and the second and third posts when I operate the switch up or down, respectively. After I replaced the switch, it worked, surprisingly, but only for one up and down sequence, before quitting on me again. The window sounds like it is struggling more than the others when moving, so I am going to do the silicone spray thing next.
  11. When I went to load some items into the vehicle later I found that the gate wasn't fully closed. Apparently, that was the problem, for it hasn't happened since.
  12. Thanks, Towncivilian. I was able to find the side link and the cable. I can switch the selector to all positions only by assisting the side link with my hand (I can only get a few fingers inside the space between it and the ECU, and don't feel like removing the ECU...) It seems as though the knob can operate normally as I turn it clockwise, but going ccw, it jams up once I get to 'floor/def' and will not return to 'front' without my help. There must be a tension spring busted inside the heater unit or something. It will operate properly once or twice before jamming again, too, which is confusing. So I just rigged a wire to the side link so that when it jams I can just yank on it and get it back to the 'front' position...
  13. I went to turn my vent switch to the 'dash' position from the 'floor/defrost' position yesterday and it clunked and now it won't turn. It's fine going from 'defrost' to 'floor/defrost', but no other positions work - there is strong resistance in trying to turn the knob, which I don't want to force for fear of really breaking something. Has anyone ever repaired this sort of thing? I took the console cover off, removed the stereo, and got the control knob panel loose, but I can't get it out due to the heater selector cable being attached (not sure how to detach it). Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!
  14. Ok, I just came back from a weekend away from home, and my neighbor informs me that my '99.5 Pathfinder's alarm has been going off randomly all weekend. In fact, it did just that this morning and I ran out to turn the alarm off. When I get home I'll check the hood and door switches. The hood has had some body work done a few months ago but I can't imagine it would have just now started to cause problems. Anyone have any new suggestions?
  15. Especially in light of the fact that they had my vehicle for 4 weeks, the last two of which all I heard was "a part is on order and isn't here yet". How could they miss an SES code after putting it all back together and driving it to the lot?? Anyhow, I'm going to make them do it right, then find someplace else next time. What gets me is I went with these guys a year ago (when a deer hit ME in the right rear panel) there were no problems whatsoever. Of course, that was a simpler fix.
  16. My '99.5 just returned from the body shop after I did about $4K worth of front-end damage to it by hitting a deer. When I changed my oil the other day, I noticed there was no hood insulation. I'm pretty sure the old hood had it, but I have to ask - does your R50 have it under your hood? The shop rep was questioning me on that. Second, is the insulation necessary? There is lots of debate over this on a thread in the WD21 forum, so I thought I'd ask here, as well. Has anyone experienced paint damage (heat) from not having it? Because my new hood was painted at the shop (not factory), is it more at-risk? Thirdly, this body shop allegedly forgot to replace my hood insulation, but also did not repair the four sheared bolts holding the splash guard (only one bolt holding it on now where it meets the underside of the radiator support bracket), failed to replace the air intake temperature sensor (damaged while they had it - there was no SES light even after hitting the deer), and slapped my broken bug shield back on even though they had a replacement on hand (it's even on the invoice). This suggests to me that maybe I should go elsewhere... am I being anal over this? There was a lot to fix, but really, isn't it their job?? Sorry about the rant.
  17. OK, I'm going to get the insulation, mainly because I just don't want to take the risk of having anything happen to the paint job (it's not factory, now). Besides, the body shop even has this hood insulation listed under 'work done' on the invoice, so it should be there anyways. Thanks for the thoughts, one way or the other!
  18. I just had my '99.5's hood replaced (stupid deer) by a body shop. They did not put hood insulation on the new one. Has anyone ever damaged their paint from having no insulation? Just trying to decide whether I should pursue this further. Reason being this body shop failed to replace the broken bug shield and intake air temp sensor as well, so I am not happy with them...
  19. I just had deer strike damage repair (hit it on the passenger side) done where the bumper and lots of other stuff was replaced. Now I am getting this p0110 code (intake air temp circuit malfunction). As per Haynes, I tested the wiring connection for voltage and it checked out (4.86 V). Then I tested the resistance of the sensor and everything there checked out (it even changed resistance as a function of temp, as is should). Fuse #16 is fine, as well. I try to clear the code and it just comes back instantly. I've read here that the IAT sensor is useless, but I really don't want the SES light staring at me forever. Any ideas other than electrical tape over the light ?
  20. One night after driving to the gas station and fueling, I got in the vehicle, turned the key, and there was no start - just dead silence. All the indicator lights lit, the headlights stayed lit, etc. but no starter turn-over. No codes, either. I had to push-start it to get it home. The next day, my cousin and I tried to start it while wiggling some wires and doing some wiring diagnostics, but found no problems - and it didn't start. After a good battery terminal cleaning, and applying dielectric grease to them, it fired right up. Problem solved... or not. It still intermittently will do this - turn the key, no start. But the clock doesn't lose time, no lights dim, and the terminals are still clean and tight. Which leads me to believe the battery isn't losing connectivity. I haven't done a load test on the battery. When it does start, which is fairly often (9 times out of 10) it sounds like it always has - starts in a couple turns with no problem, "like new". And here is another strange addition: I've found that when it does this, all I have to do is move the gearshift (it is a standard) in and out of 1st, and voila, it starts. I've tried engaging and disengaging the clutch while trying to start, but with no luck. Just shifting - will start. What the heck is going on??
  21. Just wondering - is the purpose of the outrigger (attached to the Pathfinder unibody: see here) to attach sliders or step rails to the vehicle? Mine rusted out completely and my mech claims this is an issue for passing inspection... Sorry about the post hijack!
  22. As far as I can see, the frame is in good shape everywhere else - just surface rust, a little flaking here and there, no soft spots. These two outriggers were plugged with mud and dirt; this is probably why they rotted out. I'm going to put some time into repairs - they don't seem that expensive to me now that I know what they are. The hardest thing will be brake lines, but since this is essentially my back-up vehicle, it will be a great learning experience. Thanks for the help, all!
  23. Thanks guys, that's some great information. It doesn't seem like a really important structural piece, so I wonder what the big deal is?
  24. Sorry if I was not clear in my original photo post. That is from a newer pathfinder. The part I boxed in this photo is rusted completely away on mine. I'll get a pic of it up here soon, too. Here is the actual area on my vehicle:
  25. Here is the part (photo from a newer pathfinder, not mine) that has completely rusted away on my '96, and what my mechanic referred to as a body mount.

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