dkpath96

Here's the story so far: 1) It all started with tiny little 'hiccups' from the engine that would cause a hesitation while driving, causing the vehicle to lurch a little bit. At first I only noticed it when in low RPM and at speeds less than 40 mph. And they were few and far between... 2) Then one day while driving into town I was going 35 in 3rd gear and the hesitation lasted longer - a few seconds - the engine acted as if it wanted to stall... 3) The kicker was a week later when I was going 50 in 4th gear (~2500 rpm) and the pathy just stalled out completely, the engine ran real rough and shut down. I got it off the road and let it sit a minute, then fired it up fine - but it ran real rough, coughed and sputtered and died within 20 seconds. Did this two more times before I decided I can't get it home, and had it towed to the local garage... 4) The mechanic didn't get to it for a week, then said he fired it up, drove it around for 15 minutes, then let it run idle in his parking lot for 3 hours and didn't notice any problems whatsoever. He changed the fuel filter (broke the harness and attached the new one with zip ties... pssd ) and sent me on my way... 5) My cousin and I wanted to test the fuel pressure in and out of the engine, so we pulled the fuel pump fuse (it was fine, as was the relay) and the way the pathy sputtered and stalled during this time was identical to its symptoms when it stalled on the way home before. But we didn't have the right T-fitting to test the pressure, so we really couldn't do anything else. The fuel pump still whines as it should when the key is turned on... 6) I am still driving it short distances and it is still lagging at certain random times. I replaced the plugs, rotor, and dist. cap last year and it has a refurbished MAF sensor less than a year old, and of course a new fuel filter. I think I have it narrowed down to 3 things: a. fuel pump going bad b. fuel pressure regulator going bad c. an electrical short in the wiring to the above parts (please.. not this) But could it be something else, like O2 sensors or possibly the refurbished MAF sensor, or something I've not thought of? :help: p.s. Merry Christmas!

I've been looking for new wheels for when I buy new tires (want to go with 31's) and came across these. They are machined aluminum and come with the 6 on 5.5 pattern, 3.75" bs and all that. They are running $279 for all four wheels, which is great but... Problem is, I can't dig up any info on them or on the company, only that they are sold by Sears... Does anyone know about them or heard of them, let alone own a set? Z-Racing Z62 Wheels

Thanks for the info! Where did you get your plastic fender flares?

Even with the plastic fender flares or with the sheet metal (a.k.a. w/out plastic fender flares)?

Well I haven't had the power issue ever since I tested the battery. I did clean white crusty corrosion off of the terminals, so perhaps that was the cause. Makes sense I guess. Just don't know why it wasn't more consistent, but oh well!

Thanks for the help, guys. Ok, I tested some things this afternoon: 1) The brake booster seems fine - the brake pedal gets "tighter" when pumped while the vehicle is off, and it doesn't drop in position when I hold it in with the engine running and then shut the engine off. 2) The battery holds 12.45 V when the engine is off and I detected no sort of power drain. 3) The battery holds 14.0 V while the engine is running, indicating the alternator is working properly. I had the "power drain" happen only one time this morning, and did not notice it happen on the way home. I'm now leaning towards a very intermittent short in the brake light wiring. How the heck do I check for this besides visual inspection of the wiring? And if it were this, why does it only happen once or twice after driving long stretches (3-4 mi at 45-60 mph) of not using the brakes (my daily commute is ~40 minutes, with some stop-and-go, where I've not had it occur...)?

Here's an interesting problem my pathy is developing. After driving for 1/2 hour or more, and then after long stretches of not using the brakes, when I do apply the brakes (even lightly) the whole engine tries to stall and all the lights dim. The check engine light flickers on and then off again. And then it goes away for a while. One morning after it did this even turning on the turn signal or heater fan caused the lights to dim a bit, perhaps due to the strain that the issue placed on the battery moments before. I'm thinking it could be the brake booster going, but does anyone else have an idea??

Hey max, what were the backspacings on the 15x8 tires? I'm assuming the 15x7's were stock wheels...

XPLORx4, I see your pics, and really like the rig! Did you have 31's on when you took the pics? I have no fender flares like you and I do worry about having the tires stick out past the wheel wells, for fear of throwing stones onto the paint, legal issues, etc. and I was curious how far yours extend with 31's and 15" rims w/ 4" b.s. ...

I also feel a less 'restricted' ride from the front axle - much better coasting; it's great to be able to coast for a few tenths of a mile down hills with a standard! I put in the 'custom' air intake that some others have done here (removed the big air box under the splash guard in the wheel well) at the same time I did the hubs. I gained about 2 mpg from these mods, no doubt. It was well worth it. The only down side is maintenance, but all that requires is a tear-down, clean-out, and re-grease every so often, which reminds me, mine are due... And the fact that you have to get out and lock them in and out but that's no biggie.

Thanks for the warning, 98silverpathy. I am considering having the tow hitch sandblasted to get all the rust off, but still don't know what to do next. Could powdercoat it, but not sure that's worth it, either.

What kind of backspacing does the stock 15x6.5 rim have? 4.5"?

And the new one...

www.partstrain.com, $42.95 for the black primed front bumper, 96-99 I think. I got the end caps there too. And they sell chrome ones. Yeah, actually, it is easy to touch up. Right after I painted the end caps my cat knocked one on the floor and put a mark on it. I just took a q-tip and some more spray paint and it touched up rather nicely. I've attached a picture of the old bumper...

Has anyone tried the rhino liner that comes in a spray can? My friend told me about it but I haven't seen nor heard anything about it. I want to sandblast my rusty tow hitch and spray that stuff on it... My front bumper was black and it rusted bad. I ended up buying a replacement for cheap and painted it. It looks nice now - well worth the drying times. But I do worry about stone chips - it was just auto touch-up spray paint.

Camber kits aren't necessary with the OME coils. Lots of guys run the KYB's and the RX9000X's. I found strut mounts at a number of online parts dealers including tire rack - just shop around and be sure to get the right part #'s.

Old school Ghost Recon, Desert Seige, Island Thunder, and the tons of modded maps, missions, total conversions (Frostbite rocks) for it. I'm into modding - have three total conversions - but never made them public b/c I borrowed all kinds of stuff. Right now it's the Eastern Front mod based on the War of Infamy series. Your guys speak Russian, the baddies speak German, and the weapons are accurate to the period. Nothing beats being flanked by a Tiger tank and SS troops! Can't allow myself to go get GR Advanced Warfighter for fear of getting hooked, and then all the countless modding hours would be for nothing.... The Battlefield series are good but there is no sense of realism or squad action.

Haven't lost one yet... they are definitely compressed to the bumper/hood. I use those nifty ratchet ropes - the rope is pretty soft but I don't take any chances.

I just put on a new bumper and know how you feel about preserving its looks... I used 5" sections of foam pipe insulation over the bumper and 4" sections of one of those pool noodles to protect the hood. I also put 1' sections of the noodles on the canoe edges to protect the roof. You can see these in the picture I attached. Works like a charm, the ropes can be thread right through the holes or just cut it open lengthwise to get the rope in. My concern is the weight on my roof rack... it's aftermarket and says it can hold 75 lbs max per bar = 150 lbs total. The canoe weighs 80 lbs but the forces imparted on it by tying it down surely surpass the weight limit... but knock on wood, no problems so far...

Acetone? That's a pretty strong solvent... hopefully 3 oz. is not enough to do any internal damage in the long run. You've got me curious about trying it now. Been thinking about alternative combustible fuels or additives for those of us who can't run anything more than E85 ethanol, and organic solvents always came to mind. Problem is, they are more expensive than gas anyways so it isn't worth it unless it's an additive. I read somewhere here that nissan doesn't recommend using fuel injector cleaners or any other additives due to the fact that they might degrade internal parts, but I can't imagine this to be true. Of course, I've never had any gas mileage/performance improvements after using that kind of stuff anyways...

Is this the sequence you were referring to? I found it on the Nissan-Infiniti forum. My airbag light just started flashing yesterday so that's why I am trying to research a quick, inexpensive fix. quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Before we start, look at the ignition cylinder (where you put in the key), there are numbers and names for all the positions. Like (3) says ON, and as you see, there isn't a number between the LOC and ACC position. Lets call this the (1) postion. Ok, open the door and you'll see a little black switch on the inside part of the car, it's where the door connects when you close it. Everytime you close the door, it pushes this switch down and when you open the door, the switch causes the inside door lights to illuminate. When the switch is pushed down, the door lights cease to illuminate. Found it? Ok, here we go: -While the car is off, open the door, and turn the key to the (3) position and press the door side switch at LEAST 5 times within 7 seconds (persnally, I just kept pushing the switch as many times as I could during 7 seconds) -After doing that, wait one second -Now move the key to the (1) position (between LOCK & Accesory) -Close the door, move the key back to the LOCK position and then start the engine If you timed it correctly, then the light should remain off If it's still on, might want to try it again. If it still doesn't work, then it's definately a problem with the airbag module. What I did was gently touch the wires under the passanger seat. One of the wires was for the airbag sensor. I guess when the wire was touched out of place, it triggered the light, so I just fiddled with it, then I tried the reset trick and it worked for me. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's the web site I found this at, it has lots of good info! http://www.nissan-infiniti-forum.com/cgi-b...opic/48/56.html UPDATE: I just performed the steps above successfully. The airbag light is no longer blinking! Here's the key - the five presses have to be done right when you turn the key to "3" or "on". If you wait until the airbag light begins to blink, you will not successfully enter the diagnostic and it won't reset properly. Just keep trying, it took me 4 or 5 attempts.

The pre-'04 Pathfinders are definitely stable SUVs. Too bad Nissan turned them into mall rovers in '05. And now the XTerra gets the worst rollover rating of all this year... What will we do when (if) our beloved pathys finally bite the bullet? What vehicle out there today will ever be comparable to the stock R50 or WD21 Pathfinder??

Driving through what one thinks is an open field and finding a very deep ditch hidden by high grass is also not the best feeling in the world... Didn't roll it on its side, thankfully, but did have to climb up and out the drivers side doors, which was cool! Came out of it without a scratch, which was a relief. I don't ever want to come that close again, either.

Congrats on (hopefully) finding your pathy, olimess! My '96 pathy has one rust bubble on the black window trim, on the driver's side rear door. It has a second rust bubble, one that is visibly growing, under the paint where the license plate attaches. The latter is a serious concern for me; the one on the window has always been there and has never grown. What $$ should I expect for a rust spot repair on the hatch, about 2" x 1" in area, in terms of repair costs? Anyone experienced in this, since Pathys tend not to rust?

http://www.accessconnect.com/warnprehubs.htm $124.90 and free shipping. Part #29091 But you have an '03 pathy, right, which is not listed at the above site. I don't know if this would be the right part # for your '03, though, since they only list it for '90-'99 pathys.