dkpath96

Well, my '96 pathfinder didn't pass inspection - again - thanks to leaking inner and outer CV boots, two rusted out body mounts by the passenger doors, and rusty brake lines. The estimate is around $800 to get it up to specs. It has 187,000 miles, two dented doors, and numerous rust spots on the fenders, bumpers, rocker panels, etc. but dang it, still runs like a champ. I just don't think I want to put that kind of money into it any more just to pass PA inspection. Some choices I have come up with: 1. Sell it as-is to someone who wants to work on it; 2. Use it as a trade-in (my wife wants to upgrade her '05 Escape) 3. Scrap it to the local parts yard. Where do you think I'd get the most out of the vehicle?

Hmm, good question - I will have to ask the mechanic who brought it to my attention. At the price he gave ($100), it is most likely just the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley.

I am about to do the same with my 99.5 Nissan (just hit 105,000 mi). Two questions: Should I go with the timing belt kit, vs. just the timing belt? The kit would replace all the pulleys that the belt runs on, and is an extra $70. Is this worth it? I also own a '96 with 186,000 mi and when I did the timing belt, I did not do the water pump. It still runs like a champ. Was this just luck? Has anyone had a water pump fail in a vg33?

Yep, didn't notice any difference in sound.

Check your muffler to resonator exhaust first for rusted-loose piping. Then wiggle your rear control arms for any play. Here's the pinned link for that: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7052

I agree totally. Both of my pathfinders have had the resonator rusted to the point of hanging by a thread. Local muffler shop just hacked it all off and put a new pipe in from the muffler back. Should be able to get it done for like $50 or so.

Suppose I want to remove the flares, patch the rust holes, primer, paint, and rubberize undercoat the whole inner fender and under the flare, then put the flares back on... how do I remove those circular plastic clips in the fender that the flares snap into without destroying them? Are they able to be removed, e.g. by squeezing the back end together or something?

Well, I went to move my vehicle today, and the clutch went right to the floor and did not return. The slave cylinder is leaking around the gasket, so that's the obvious point of failure. Any differences between Dorman, Wagner, Rhinopac, Beck-Arnley brands other than warranties?

My clutch has roughly 75k miles on it, and I put a new clutch slave cylinder on about 45k miles ago. I am noticing now that the clutch pedal has more play in it - I can depress it over half way until it engages/disengages - than before. The master cylinder reservoir fluid level was down to just below the MIN mark, so I topped it off, but am thinking one of the cylinders is going bad again. Any way for a layman like me to tell if it's the master or slave?

I've never tried to do any exhaust work, so I thought it would be a good learning experience. It's always fun to at least give this stuff a try, even without having the ideal tools at hand. Hopefully it won't come back to haunt me and I can at least attempt to repair the threads. After (if) I fail at that, I'll go to the pros.

So basically buy the exhaust pipe, take the parts to the local garage and say, "here ya go". Been there, done that when it comes to working on the 'finder... Thanks for the advice, guys. Sounds like its best to leave this stuff to the mechanics.

Yeah, so my '96's O2 sensors were 'rust-welded' to the exhaust pipe but I did manage to remove the one that was causing me problems. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be decent thread in the pipe anymore to allow the new sensor to thread in properly, whether from the rust or from me wrenching the old one out. Should I: A. Try to re-thread the pipe fitting? I am pretty sure I can borrow the equipment for that. B. Buy a new pipe section ($40 at rockauto.com) and replace the current one (its flange bolts look rust-welded too...) C. Heed to the advice of someone with a better idea, pending that idea is out there?

Well after experiencing a big learning curve when it came to body work, here are my results - my two biggest rust areas (required metal fab and bondo), the front fender and the rocker panels. Overall I repaired nine rust areas, including re-painting the front bumper and the tow hitch, for around $200. I was quoted at $1200-1500 by a body shop for the work, so I'll take the savings - don't need it to look professional anyways!

ticker, where did you buy the harness?

Just started tearing into the rust on my '96. In some spots, it was not terrible, but my left front fender has had it, as you can see. I took the pic after removing the paint and rust with a wire wheel and sander. Punched holes right through it. I plan on buying a replacement fender, found them on rockauto.com for like $125, primered. Not sure what shipping will be... I've never done this, but is it as simple as removing the inner splash guards, bumper, etc. and unbolting the fender? I am experimenting with a rust inhibitor from Rustoleum that is supposed to react with rust to form a black primed surface for painting. Anyone have experience with this kind of stuff? Permatex also makes a similar product... My '99 has fender flares, so I am going to try the silicone sealant idea that was posted here earlier. I also plan on re-applying rubberized undercoating to the rocker panels, wheel wells, and frame. Salt sucks. One more question - I had very little rust on the '96 - certainly none on the fenders - when I used to park it outside all winter. Last couple years, I've been parking in my garage, and now wham, tons of rust. Anyone suspect, as I do, that the freeze-thaw cycle and all that melting salty water is to blame?? One last question - anyone know the paint color/code for my '96? Is it champagne metallic??

Sometimes, I hear a "clunk-clunk-clunk" from the front wheel well when I turn the vehicle to the right or left; when doing a three point turn, there are other clunks as well from that area. If a strut bearing fails, could this prevent the top strut mount from turning, which would make the coil spring look "bound up"? I just turned the wheels while parked but could not replicate the noise. Reason I am asking is that the guy who did the most recent inspection told me that my ball joints were bad, but said nothing about the strut other than it was noisy. Which is the culprit for the clunk?

My thoughts exactly, XPLORx4. That is why I've rescheduled for a 'second opinion' at another garage. This place was a body shop and I think they wanted my $600 for repairing those rocker panels. Thanks for the hint on rust repair, I actually plan on cutting out the rusted metal and welding in a new piece. As for the ball joints, are those to blame for a nasty shimmy when turning to the right above 50 mph? Anyhow, I have put lots of time and energy into my '96 and I just don't plan on giving up on it any time soon. It's like a part of the family, ya know?

I just purchased a '99.5 with 91,000 miles, and in pristine condition (as far as I can tell) for under $7000. Lots of subtle differences compared to my '96. Power locks, windows, and cruise, and it's a standard. Anyone know if the VG33 exhaust manifold issue was resolved for the 99.5's? My '96 (178,000 miles) went in for inspection the morning I went to look at the '99.5, and it didn't pass due to bad ball joints, bad right-side strut bearing (dang KYB junk), rusting out rocker panels (see pic) and in need of new tires. I know I can fix it up to pass inspection, but am looking at $1000 or more to do so. Is it worth it?? Trade-in was only $800 so I said screw that. Sure would like to keep the '96 running, it has OME coils, custom skid plate, my good stereo, etc. Opinions?

Good info, thanks guys. I'm looking at a very clean 99.5 (it's still listed as a 99) with 91,000 mi, going for $7000. Nice to know it has the bigger front discs. I'm gonna try to talk the dealer into new timing belt/water pump before I go for it though. And did they fix the exhaust manifold issue with this model year, I know it still has the VG33. Any other ominous things to look for?

Ok, I replaced all four lower control arm bushings with polys in late July 2007. Solid as a rock and quiet after that. 30,000 miles later the swaying is starting to come back, along with some clunking in the right rear wheel well while driving over potholes. I cannot budge the lower control arms manually, and my tire pressure is spot on. SO, is it time for the upper control arm bushings to come out, or should I focus on the panhard or stabilizer bars next?

Lately I've been hunting down the cause of some serious high-pitched squealing originating from somewhere near the front of the engine, which I thought were bad belts. Had all the belts replaced, and still have the squealing. Mech says it's the alternator's bearings. I think it could be the tensioner pulley (the top left one). Any other suggestions as to narrowing down the origin of the squeal? I have not been able to pinpoint its source by ear... Also, as for the Quest alty swap, apparently the higher 120 amp Quest alternator won't do any damage to the electrical system? Can someone verify/explain why, seeing as the OEM alty is like 60-70 amp? I am not an electrical engineer, how does this work?

Has anyone had any luck with fixing this issue? Did the seafoaming work?

NO DOUBT. That's the thing, Paul is the only Republican that wants to END the war, not extend it into Iran. All the other Repubs seem to be fear-mongering war advocates that spit 9/11 out as a battle cry. As Paul said, it wasn't a country that attacked us, so how can you argue for invading soverign nations? Obviously our current group of morons got it very wrong in Iraq. On the social programs side, Paul wants to get the feds' hands out of alot of domestic programs and turn over control to the state and local governments. This would cut wasteful spending and eliminate political lobbying and special interests that are sucking the life out of these programs that would actually get off the ground otherwise. On the other hand, of course, candidates are all talk anyways... who's to say they'll be able to do anything when they get into office. Corruption and quagmire run too deep nowadays for anything good to get done. No one that works for the government wants to lose their cushy jobs. Sorry about the rant.

Hi all, just curious to see if anyone here has an interest in the presidential candidate Ron Paul? What are your thoughts/opinions on him and any other candidate? Here's mine: Dr. Paul has my vote due to his unique stand and his great leadership potential - something this country is in desperate need of right now. Check him out: Ron Paul 2008

^^^^What he said.^^^^ Old Man Emu coil springs will give you less than 2" more lift but will make the pathfinder ride so much sweeter. The top photo is before, the bottom is after installing OME coils. I got the HD coils for up front and it prevents the front from being lower than the rear too badly.