dkpath96

Anyone know what kind of setup this pathy has on the roof (sorry, I don't remember whose rig this is...) ? And what might be a ballpark cost for such a thing?

Since the wheel topic has come up here, I will ask... Right now I have 30x9.5x15 BFG's on my stock 15x6.5 rims. I want bigger tires (like 31's) to go with my OME lift. However, here is the catch: I don't have fender flares and don't want the tires to fling stones all along the side of the vehicle, so I don't want them to stick out too far past the wheel well. And I can't seem to find the right wheel width and offset/backspacing that would prevent this. I am chewing on the idea of finding some cheap/used/salvaged stock 15x7 rims off a Nissan or anything with the same bolt pattern that would fit. This way the 31's or metric equiv's would fit on the rims w/o sticking out too far. Would this be worth the $$ or should I just stick with 30's? The pic I'm including was the look I am trying to go for... my apologies for forgetting whose rig it is!!

In response to using loads of high-temp grease with the hubs... I tore them apart over the winter and de-greased them, then re-greased and re-assembled them. They are functioning perfectly and I noticed that all that grease that was near the seal actually kept dirt, dust, and salt out. They still turn easily and seem to engage/disengage with no issues. So far so good!

I only installed the coil springs. No spacers! While I was in there I installed new struts and strut mounts though. Consider doing that if you have lots of miles on yours yet. At first I thought the HDs up front would be too stiff but I really like them and don't think they ride rough at all. And they made my pathy sit fairly level - no dragster look. Now I don't have any custom bumper or winch or anything other than a metal skid plate up front so that could be why.

I put OME HD's in the front and OME mediums in the rear about a year ago. For the first 5-6 months I had a full 2 inches of lift in both the front and the rear. Today I measured and have 1.75 inches of lift all around. No spacers, Warns, KYB GR2s up front and el cheapo Monro shocks in the back. The ride is perfect - stiff offroad, handles great on pavement, and only tops out when I hit a really bad speed bump or ravine or a log at speed. I've been following a Jeep Cherokee with a 3" lift around the local trails, quad paths and mud holes all year with absolutely no fear of being outdone. Very pleased with the OME setup so far, and if you just need the coils, it's cheaper than AC's. Next time around (who knows when I'll wear these coils out) I might try AC's for comparison, though. I've attached a picture of my pathy pre- and post-OME install.

Thanks for the link, xplorx4. I tried the test and did not notice any movement in the control arms, at least not laterally. The one thing I did do was to grab the control arms and was able to move them - I could twist them forward and backward (as you face the side of the vehicle) and they moved rather easily, more than 1/8 an inch each way. I'd say the bushings are shot. I've had well-worn BFG's on my pathy before and never experienced this tramlining issue, so I'm not thinking it's the tires. I'm going to order two bushing kits from AC and have access to a hydraulic press. Anything else I need to know before I get involved with this repair, i.e. what bolt size is needed for the ones I might have to hack off?

This "tramlining" or "sashaying" you guys speak of - I think I am experiencing this now for some reason. Does it feel like the truck has gotten "loose" in the rear and wants to slip from side to side? I've been trying to figure this out for weeks now. I seem to experience it more when the road is wet but it has nothing to do with a windy day or following a tractor trailer or anything that would be air-buffeting related. And I do not feel this motion in the steering. My tires are pretty well worn - BFG ATs with less than 5 to 6/16 of an inch left. The tire pressures match, but I will now be looking into the lower control arm bushings. Anyone know a quick and easy way to check the status of the bushings?

I am also looking at tires for my '96. I have had 30x9.5x15 BFG ATs on my pathy for all of its 143000 miles (two sets) and can't complain about them. They are a little squirrely on wet pavement on occasion, and ok in snow. I'm now looking at some Kumho Road Venture ATs - anyone have any comments on these?

I'd be afraid of rain or mist from other vehicles getting in there, but perhaps the K&N can repel that too. Awhile ago I did a similar mod by taking off the huge baffle thing behind the wheel well and just put a mesh screen and a splash shield over the hole to the air box. That also gave a little bit of a performance enhancement at higher RPMs. Here's the thing I'm worried about - I've gone through two MAF's since I did this. I'm now back to the paper filters to find out if perhaps I was over-oiling the K&N despite following their directions; it could also be from moisture getting through to the sensor. We'll see...

Great to see you back, Jim, we are all here for ya!

Got it.

Ok, I wired in a new MAF sensor connector and have been driving it to work for a week without having the engine completely cut out and stall on me. However, the hiccups are still there. Once again I've tried to narrow it down and so far have been noticing them within the first 15-20 minutes of driving and when I'm cruising with the foot just barely applying pressure to the pedal, and the RPMs around 1500-2000. When it happens, it feels like the engine wants to stall but then it recovers and seems to drive fine for the remainder of the trip (another 30 min or so). Also I've noticed that the idle RPMs are unsteady until the engine really runs for a while. They bounce from 700 to 1000 to 1200 and such. When I get home and sit in the driveway watching them (45 min drive time), they are settled down to 800 or so and don't vary. I read up on MAF sensors and get the idea on how they work, but is it true that after the engine (or exhaust) reaches a certain warm-up temperature, the oxygen sensors are more 'in command' of the engine? If so this could point to a bad MAF. I also read that MAFs cannot be repaired - only cleaned or replaced. And lo and behold, mine has a nice fat sticker on it saying it was "re-manufactured"....

Wow, the maf sensor was dirty. I got it all nice and shiny and it idles so nicely now! Plus I definitely found the culprit of the engine cut-outs - the MAF wire connector! Even the slightest jiggle causes the engine to cut out, so I'm sure that is the problem. I'll let y'all know how things run once I get it replaced. Thanks for all the input!

I am now looking into replacing the MAF and its wiring connector harness, which is loose and being held on with electrical tape... If this is a MAF issue and not just the wiring, do you think I should inspect my existing one and try to clean it with rubbing alcohol or something, in case it is dirty or oily? I do have a K&N filter and it seems as though these problems started after I cleaned and oiled the filter a couple months ago... perhaps I over-oiled it??

Got a diversity antenna adapter at wal-mart for less than $8. Finished the proper wiring for the harness, and... SOUND! Thanks for all your help, guys! It works like a charm.

Question - when I attach the amp ground wire (F) to the radio ground wire, should I tie in the chassis ground wire (K) too? btw, NPORA is my Google search for Pathfinder stuff... -study-

The fuel pressure test came up fine, so the fuel pump is working. The MAF sensor harness was damaged when it was replaced last spring so I am now looking for the wire leads and harness to the sensor. The local junkyards don't have any R50s - anyone know where to find something like this?

Thanks for the info, guys. Yes, the JVC Arsenal KD-AR770 is the one I got, and I do have the wiring harness adapter; and the haynes manual had the wiring diagram/color code like the link you posted. But the link is a bit easier to figure out... thanks! I didn't know about the amp issue and that will be my next step. This is quite a learning experience for my first time at swapping out a car stereo - I figured it would be simple... HA! I still don't understand why the old stereo won't get power without the diversity antenna plugged in (even with the original harnesses attached), but oh well. I do have to laugh about the old stereo - it's in a nissan, was produced by ford, and was made in mexico. Talk about a global economy!

The harnesses are all wired properly, and the fuses are fine. When I plug the truck's two white harnesses into the old stereo (not a Bose) it does the same thing my new one does - no speakers - and no power, either. But the new stereo gets power from the harness. Just no speakers. I tested the two-pronged plug for voltage with the key on but didn't detect anything, nor did it give any resistivity, so I am really not sure what it is except that it is necessary for the old stereo to work...

And here is a pic of the new stereo from the back... it is a JVC AR7700.

I've hooked up all the wire harnesses correctly and all have continuity and such, and the stereo has power. The problem I have is that the speakers have no power - they will not put out any sound at all. I've narrowed it down to one cord that was in the old stereo, that has no adapter to the new one. Attached is the picture, and you can see it to the right of the two wire harnesses: It has two metal prongs and red tape around the wires behind the plug. Anyone know what this is, and what I need to attach it to the new stereo (see second post for the new stereo plugs). :help:

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what the '12' or '1212' code from the ECU means? I've been browsing the haynes manual and am planning on testing the MAF and the throttle position sensor. Problems with these are to set off a trouble code but the last MAF went bad and didn't set off a code...

I didn't think the VG33 had a schroeder valve, but if it does, could someone point it out to me? I'm going to a different garage next week to have a fuel pressure test done as per the haynes manual's advice. Wouldn't a faulty oxygen sensor throw a code and light my SES?

The check engine light came on only after it stalled, and after pulling the code manually, it gave a code "12" or a code "1212" (one blink, pause, two blinks, pause, repeating). This code wasn't in the Haynes manual but my cousin thought it was a "no codes" code. And it never came back after we cleared it.

I'm looking at a set of wheels that are 15x7 with a -6 mm offset. New Wheels The -6 mm offset is 3.75" of bs., right? So by using the offset calculator at 1010tires.com, does this mean that the wheels will be 46 mm (1.75") out further from the current stock wheels?