dkpath96

I think this topic is exactly what my issue is with my '96 XE Pathy. Once in a blue moon the vehicle will feel so sluggish that I have to downshift to maintain speed, at least until I get off the road. And when I get out to see what the problem is, either the left or right-side caliper has hung up and the brake disc is super hot and smoking. After it cools down, it is good to go and may be weeks before it happens again. I never had this issue until I had my brake pads replaced in March '05, but since then, I've had four seperate hang-ups that required me to get off the road. This topic is aimed at exactly this 'caliper hang-up' issue, correct?

Hmmm, I have no clunking over bumps, only when I brake or accelerate fairly rapidly, and it sounds like something on the driver's side, rear. I can't tell if it is a suspension thing or a frame or door thing - it isn't my jack or any other crap in my truck, tho... I've asked my local mechanic to investigate but he keeps telling me it's some rubber piece in the suspension that is of no importance making the noise and I shouldn't worry... Sometimes it gets really loud, like hitting the floor with a mallet - other times it doesn't even clunk... ??? any ideas? :help:

China is not the only country guzzling oil... check this out. Very informative web site: nationmaster.com Do ya think the H2, Expedition, or Navigator will be outlawed any time soon? It costs me about $40 to fill up here in western PA... $2.25/gal and rising.

For the total clutch kit installment, the bill was around $500. However, this bill also included two tows ($45 each), and replacement of a slave cylinder and hydraulic line, which was probably no more than $100. Add $165 for the cost of the clutch kit, and $35 shipping. That's alot less than $1200!!

Some guys have had theirs making noise for years, others (like me) have had it "bark" for a few weeks, then all of a sudden the bearing freezes and the clutch won't release in the middle of an intersection... I just had mine replaced (actually a whole new clutch kit) for around $300. I got the clutch kit from clutchcity.com for $165 and the local mech installed it for me. I'd recommend fixing it again - mine could have been worse, it was really bad the day before it froze, when I was flying down I-80 in a snowstorm, which would have been the WORST place for it to go... It sounds like a serious PITA to DIY tho. I never even considered it.

Yeah, the plastic joints that are holding the wiper arm linkages together just don't look like they'd last that long, but apparently they do. Unless you're referring to my pathy... My local garage told me they'd get a replacement linkage... I walk in a few days later to see a used POS linkage kit, everything but the motor, looking like it'd fall apart when I picked it up. For $65!! I said, um, NO, and they decided to order a NEW linkage - the specific part I need - for $20 from Nissan. Wow. What gets me is, I could have (and should have) done it myself... pssd

Thanks Pezzy, that diagram is almost identical to the '96 pathy setup. And the desctiption is exactly the issue I am having. I have to get the parts from a dealer, since no auto parts store around carry the ball joint linkage that is worn out. I have thick rubber bands holding it together in the meantime...

I can't seem to find info for this issue anywhere (here or Haynes or internet) so I will ask... The windshield wiper motor's arm that connects to and moves the wipers keeps popping off of the wiper control arm. It looks like a simple ball-and-socket connection with sticky or greasy rubber gasket between the joint. My problem is that this joint has come apart twice now within a few months, and for no apparent rhyme or reason. It happened last night while going 45 mph in a light drizzle, which sucked. It almost seems as if the rubber gasket could stretch out over the top motor arm joint to hold it against the wiper control arm joint, but I can't seem to stretch it that far... Any ideas out there as to how to fix this problem??

I had a nasty grinding noise at low speeds coming from the right wheel, which was present with or without brakes, and was diagnosed as a bad caliper and rotor. I replaced the rotor and got new pads but the garage said the caliper looked fine. Well, it doesn't grind anymore- it squeals when I apply the brakes, however, still from the right side. I am assuming I need a new caliper, correct? Can I replace one caliper and not the other?

western PA, DuBois area. middle of nowhere... but good trails.

As for your problem #3, I recently had the drive belts and timing belt changed in my pathy at 105K miles, and now it squeals just as you described. I'm glad you mentioned that WD40 fixed the squeal - I couldn't believe that by replacing old belts would actually produce a new squealing sound... isn't that what old belts are replaced for???? Anywho, thanks for the info!

Is there any way to tell whether the tranny fluid needs changed? I have a used pathy and have no idea if it's ever been done, and I am at 106K miles... It's a standard, too, so would that change anything, in terms of wear and tear?

I've been trying to figure out the best tire pressure for my BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO's. I have searched endlessly for the recommended psi on the tire wall but can't find it. The sticker in my pathy says 26 psi, but does that not depend on tire type/size? My garage told me 34 psi, so that's where they are at now, but they look to me like they are over-inflated, and I feel like I've lost traction in the snow... I'm going back to 26 psi to see if it makes a difference.

I'm having a local mechanic replace the clutch, but thanks for the info, snosnk. The crazy thing is, the guy was test-driving it to listen for a wheel bearing/brake noise when the clutch went out! Better that way than in the parking garage in Cleveland, 150 miles from home, or in the middle of the woods. I got the clutch for $165, free shipping, from www.clutchcityonline.com. Should I also pick up a new slave cylinder? Some have recommended that I do.

Ok, the release bearing siezed up on Friday (luckily close to the shop) so I am shopping for a clutch kit. I've found a Beck Arnley clutch pack for $221, (rockauto.com) and an Exedy kit for $165 (clutchcityonline.com), both have the necessary parts, I believe. Which one is better/more reliable/etc? Any reccomendations out there?

While we're on the topic of the brake light, does anyone else have to top off the brake fluid reservoir every six months or so? My light comes on about that often and I have to add no more than 1/2 inch of brake fluid to get the light off again. I'm assuming there's a slow leak somewhere, but I am curious to see if anyone else has this issue...

Try Rockauto.com, I got the passenger side manifold, gaskets and all, for under $50 for my '96. It's a relatively labor-intensive job, total for mine was $305 and I bought the part myself. But mine was in need of replacement due to a broken stud, so maybe your job will be easier.

Are you talking about drive belts? Is it the labor, 'cause the belts themselves are relatively cheap.

-thnkboutit- Yeah I noticed that after I posted it...

I am in the process of preparing for the 100k maintenance overhaul... Make sure your exhaust manifold studs aren't broken, I have a '96 that just turned past 100k and learned that mine needs replaced. I thought that didn't happen to the R50's but mine must have had some leftover '95 parts put in it... There's a 100k warranty extension on the manifold and stud replacement thru Nissan. Don't forget fuel filter and spark plugs - Bosch Platinum 4's are great.

hey Conner, check this link out: Stillen Headers - 4x4parts Bulletin Board I am researching header installation for my '96 pathy, VG33E and came across this site. Thought you might be interested.

Yes, those awful heat shields - they rusted out then vibrated like mad at certain RPMs on my '96. I just clamped them down tight, others have removed theirs completely. Now if that's not it, look around the NPORA site a bit for discussions on the whole exhaust manifold stud breakage issue. It makes a rapid ticking noise, and can be accompanied by a "puffing" in the lower engine compartment. If it could be the manifold, and you're close to 100k miles, stop driving and take it to a Nissan dealer, they have a warranty extension that will cover manifold repair/replacement up to (and not one :furious: mile past) 100k. Mine hit 102k with this issue and they wouldn't even look at it.

LINDERS, Could your shimmy be described as a sort of low-sounding vibration that you can feel through the steering wheel? And it sounds almost like really loud road noise? I am starting to notice this with my pathy, and it happens when I get it up to speed (50-70 mph). It also tends to happen more often going down hill, although this might be a coincidence. The funny thing is, it goes away for a while. I have a 45 min. commute and only tend to hear it once or twice all day. I am going to have the front wheel bearings looked at...

My '96 XE does - it's an orange gas pump on the left side of the dash over the gas gauge; it doesn't light up when you start the vehicle, like every other light.

I have a similar clunk in my '96. It is noticeable only at low speeds, during acceleration or braking. Thanks for the info, guys, I will also be looking at those bushings soon.