dkpath96

Somewhere in this forum there was a discussion on replacing stock coils with Jeep Grand Cherokee coils, and that these would give the Pathfinder a 1.5" - 2" lift. If this is true, would this be the cheaper alternative to the AC 2" lift, and would it compare in terms of ride quality and durability? And when installing a 2" suspension lift kit, bigger shocks (and struts?) than the stock ones are required, right? What sizes/brands are most recommended?

New sway bar links and bushings are dirt cheap ($20 range each) on autopartswarehouse.com or rockauto.com. I replaced mine a couple weeks ago in an attempt to silence noisy suspension. The rattling over speed bumps, RR tracks, etc. got better but over big bumps it still rattles, so I'm gonna just turn up the stereo and ignore it.

Hey MrGame, you'll have a blast off-roading, even in your stock Pathy. Mine is also a stock, with BFG AT tires, that's about it! One word of advice - not only should you check the depth of unknown puddles, look for stumps, logs, stones and other such hidden jems in these puddles. And if you decide to cross an old strip mine field, go slow and walk across it first, otherwise you'll end up like me... see the pic below! Cool thing is, I got pulled out of this particular ditch without even a scratch, in my plain old "stock" pathy. So don't worry, have fun!

Will a factory roof rack that's on an '03 pathy fit on my '96, which appears to have the same roof design (all R50's)?

Speaking of roof racks, I saw a '97 pathy that had a nice factory rack that sat in the grooves in the roof. My '96 has those same grooves, but no rack, so I am curious - would the '97 factory fit the '96 grooves? I had called the local Nissan dealer when I first got my '96, and they claim that the '96's did not have factory roof racks, hence my el-cheapo rack that barely holds my canoe...

Just posted about this topic earlier - speed sensor was about $230 for the local garage to order and install, and I never did find the part online. It is a Do It Yourself job, one bolt and wire plug to remove and bingo, swap the new one in, but a garage will only be $30 labor or so to get it done if you're lazy like me. As for brush guards, I also researched them, found a few in the low $300's, but also remember reading where they were not a good thing to hit a deer with, for they would be destroyed along with both headlights, turning lamps, grille, etc... but that could just be rumor.

I had my speed sensor replaced for $230, the sensor and pinion cost $181.50 from the Nissan dealership, I couldn't find that part online anywhere. I think it could easily be done at home, just unbolt it, unplug it, pull it out of the tranny, plug and bolt the new one in and you are good to go... It did splash a little gear oil out but nothing major, I hope :X Anywho, mine was a standard transmission, R50 model '96 pathy. Dunno if it's different for the '95.

Guess what? My clunking issue has been narrowed down to the sway bar links, which are pretty beat up and loose, just like you said, 98silverpathy! If I only had found the time to keep up with all my posts...

I think this topic is exactly what my issue is with my '96 XE Pathy. Once in a blue moon the vehicle will feel so sluggish that I have to downshift to maintain speed, at least until I get off the road. And when I get out to see what the problem is, either the left or right-side caliper has hung up and the brake disc is super hot and smoking. After it cools down, it is good to go and may be weeks before it happens again. I never had this issue until I had my brake pads replaced in March '05, but since then, I've had four seperate hang-ups that required me to get off the road. This topic is aimed at exactly this 'caliper hang-up' issue, correct?

Hmmm, I have no clunking over bumps, only when I brake or accelerate fairly rapidly, and it sounds like something on the driver's side, rear. I can't tell if it is a suspension thing or a frame or door thing - it isn't my jack or any other crap in my truck, tho... I've asked my local mechanic to investigate but he keeps telling me it's some rubber piece in the suspension that is of no importance making the noise and I shouldn't worry... Sometimes it gets really loud, like hitting the floor with a mallet - other times it doesn't even clunk... ??? any ideas? :help:

China is not the only country guzzling oil... check this out. Very informative web site: nationmaster.com Do ya think the H2, Expedition, or Navigator will be outlawed any time soon? It costs me about $40 to fill up here in western PA... $2.25/gal and rising.

For the total clutch kit installment, the bill was around $500. However, this bill also included two tows ($45 each), and replacement of a slave cylinder and hydraulic line, which was probably no more than $100. Add $165 for the cost of the clutch kit, and $35 shipping. That's alot less than $1200!!

Some guys have had theirs making noise for years, others (like me) have had it "bark" for a few weeks, then all of a sudden the bearing freezes and the clutch won't release in the middle of an intersection... I just had mine replaced (actually a whole new clutch kit) for around $300. I got the clutch kit from clutchcity.com for $165 and the local mech installed it for me. I'd recommend fixing it again - mine could have been worse, it was really bad the day before it froze, when I was flying down I-80 in a snowstorm, which would have been the WORST place for it to go... It sounds like a serious PITA to DIY tho. I never even considered it.

Yeah, the plastic joints that are holding the wiper arm linkages together just don't look like they'd last that long, but apparently they do. Unless you're referring to my pathy... My local garage told me they'd get a replacement linkage... I walk in a few days later to see a used POS linkage kit, everything but the motor, looking like it'd fall apart when I picked it up. For $65!! I said, um, NO, and they decided to order a NEW linkage - the specific part I need - for $20 from Nissan. Wow. What gets me is, I could have (and should have) done it myself... pssd

Thanks Pezzy, that diagram is almost identical to the '96 pathy setup. And the desctiption is exactly the issue I am having. I have to get the parts from a dealer, since no auto parts store around carry the ball joint linkage that is worn out. I have thick rubber bands holding it together in the meantime...

I can't seem to find info for this issue anywhere (here or Haynes or internet) so I will ask... The windshield wiper motor's arm that connects to and moves the wipers keeps popping off of the wiper control arm. It looks like a simple ball-and-socket connection with sticky or greasy rubber gasket between the joint. My problem is that this joint has come apart twice now within a few months, and for no apparent rhyme or reason. It happened last night while going 45 mph in a light drizzle, which sucked. It almost seems as if the rubber gasket could stretch out over the top motor arm joint to hold it against the wiper control arm joint, but I can't seem to stretch it that far... Any ideas out there as to how to fix this problem??

I had a nasty grinding noise at low speeds coming from the right wheel, which was present with or without brakes, and was diagnosed as a bad caliper and rotor. I replaced the rotor and got new pads but the garage said the caliper looked fine. Well, it doesn't grind anymore- it squeals when I apply the brakes, however, still from the right side. I am assuming I need a new caliper, correct? Can I replace one caliper and not the other?

western PA, DuBois area. middle of nowhere... but good trails.

As for your problem #3, I recently had the drive belts and timing belt changed in my pathy at 105K miles, and now it squeals just as you described. I'm glad you mentioned that WD40 fixed the squeal - I couldn't believe that by replacing old belts would actually produce a new squealing sound... isn't that what old belts are replaced for???? Anywho, thanks for the info!

Is there any way to tell whether the tranny fluid needs changed? I have a used pathy and have no idea if it's ever been done, and I am at 106K miles... It's a standard, too, so would that change anything, in terms of wear and tear?

I've been trying to figure out the best tire pressure for my BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO's. I have searched endlessly for the recommended psi on the tire wall but can't find it. The sticker in my pathy says 26 psi, but does that not depend on tire type/size? My garage told me 34 psi, so that's where they are at now, but they look to me like they are over-inflated, and I feel like I've lost traction in the snow... I'm going back to 26 psi to see if it makes a difference.

I'm having a local mechanic replace the clutch, but thanks for the info, snosnk. The crazy thing is, the guy was test-driving it to listen for a wheel bearing/brake noise when the clutch went out! Better that way than in the parking garage in Cleveland, 150 miles from home, or in the middle of the woods. I got the clutch for $165, free shipping, from www.clutchcityonline.com. Should I also pick up a new slave cylinder? Some have recommended that I do.

Ok, the release bearing siezed up on Friday (luckily close to the shop) so I am shopping for a clutch kit. I've found a Beck Arnley clutch pack for $221, (rockauto.com) and an Exedy kit for $165 (clutchcityonline.com), both have the necessary parts, I believe. Which one is better/more reliable/etc? Any reccomendations out there?

While we're on the topic of the brake light, does anyone else have to top off the brake fluid reservoir every six months or so? My light comes on about that often and I have to add no more than 1/2 inch of brake fluid to get the light off again. I'm assuming there's a slow leak somewhere, but I am curious to see if anyone else has this issue...

Try Rockauto.com, I got the passenger side manifold, gaskets and all, for under $50 for my '96. It's a relatively labor-intensive job, total for mine was $305 and I bought the part myself. But mine was in need of replacement due to a broken stud, so maybe your job will be easier.