dkpath96

I tried stepping on the bumper and jumping it up and down but never heard the clunk sound. it almost sounds like someone is punching the floor when it happens.

I was just re-reading my old posts, and just wanted to correct myself - the noise I have is more like a ticking (paper in a slow fan??) noise, not a rattle or buzz. Well, yesterday I drove around for 200+ miles and heard the ticking all day. It is originating from the engine area, passenger side. It was pretty loud. Today it was barely audible, even with a cold or warm engine. I've discussed this in another post but this one seems more active. When I popped the hood to listen for the noise, I couldn't hear it, but I did notice a rapid puffing noise (like a hole in the exaust) coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold. It of course increases in rate and pitch with higher RPM. This leads me to believe it's the manifold stud issue. But this week I will try a higher octane gas just out of curiosity. That puffing noise isn't normal, is it...?

Another question: I tried to find the tapping noise again last night under the hood, but I can't hear it without driving it. But I did notice a puffing noise originating from the exhaust manifold area (passenger side, below valve cover). Is this more evidence of a manifold leak? *And along other lines, what is the safest, easiest way to clean up my engine? It iis looking quite dirty. Can I just spray it down with a hose?

Mark: How loud was your rattle? Did it get faster and higher with higher RPM? The reason I ask is that I now am hearing another rattle, fainter and getting more consistent in the cold weather, that sounds again like paper in a fan, but much fainter than the heat shield noise I had before. And this time it only can be heard when I accelerate. Did anyone mention header or manifold issues in your quest to fix your noise? thanks!

USMCDEVILDOG and ChromoTech: I have a faint tapping noise, sounds like a piece of paper in a fan, that is only audible when I am accelerating. I can't hear it in idle or neutral. It gets louder at around mid-RPM, then fades but can still be heard. And it 'keeps time' with the RPMs - it gets faster with higher RPMs. From the driver's seat it sounds like it is originating from the engine area, and I've already removed the exhaust guards that used to rattle. Is this the manifold or header problem you mentioned? How could I tell for sure - can my local garage identify it? thanks!

Another question - if this is the throwout bearing going bad, why is the sound not consistent - why does it go away? And why on some mornings, do I never hear it at all? It seems that if I rev the engine a bit and warm it up, it doesn't make the noise, whereas if I start cold, it will groan. But only once, from 1st to 2nd gear. Also, does this symptom have anything to do with the post dealing with gear oil level? Perhaps these are unanswerable questions, and the quirks of my pathy will remain mysteries... But at least I know I'm not alone!

About the clunk noise: I have had a clunking noise in my '96 since I bought it used a couple years ago. It happens at low speeds mostly, when I apply fairly strong acceleration and/or deceleration. The noise is a low clunk that I can't pinpoint but it is under the vehicle, behind the driver seat, I think. I can feel it through the floor. If I accelerate hard, it clunks. Then it will only clunk again if I brake hard. I did notice a cross-member that has broken loose back by where the speed sensor is on the tranny - could this be the culprit? I think the cross-member supports the exhaust system but I'll have to look again. Only thing is, that's on the passenger side... Any ideas/similar problems out there?

Ok, I have been looking into a clutch kit for my '96 in case my "barking" clutch decides to go bad. I noticed that they sell the throwout (release) bearing separately, so if that is my problem, can I just buy the bearing and have it replaced? Or is it just easier while it's torn down just to replace everything...?

Hey, I never thought about removable seats... good idea! and yes, we are "vertically challenged"...

My pathy's original CD player does that clicking/searching/spitting out thing every so often too. It sucks but I've not had the time to look into it. It almost acts as if the CD is not getting seated right in the player or something; or the loading mechanism is malfunctioning. Who knows...

With the seats down, there's just enough room for two back there... sssh Haven't used it in place of the tent yet, though, not enough room with all the gear. Gotta get a nice cargo carrier for the roof...

Crap, my clutch just started making that noise recently, as the mornings are getting cooler... I was about to start a thread on it... Thanks for the info on prices, problems, etc. guys.

Congrats on finding your noise! Bet you're enjoying a more peaceful and worry-free ride. :cool2:

Thanks for the advice on the roof racks, guys. I didn't know that those were rails on my roof (duh!) so now I am looking into a Thule setup. Those big roof racks on the XTerras - are they for show or are they just really big for hauling anything up on the roof? I've never really looked one over up close, I just was wishing I had one like that...

I also mainly do light off-roading, and have to take on some nasty winter roads. I have BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs on my stock '96 pathy, and I love them. They have a pretty quiet ride and great handling, esp. on muddy or snow-covered roads. I got all 4 tires w/ balancing, etc. and road handler warranty for about 600 bucks at Sears.

I have a '96 Pathfinder and was thinking of upgrading my roof rack (see pic of old one - it's a SporTrak, by Perrycraft, w/ a 75 lb. load limit). 1) is this possible, since I already have one installed? 2) if it can be done, does anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to have more room to work with up there (width and length) and a higher load limit. I use the rack to transport my 15.5' canoe (~70 lbs.) but would like to be able to put more things up there from time to time. -thanks!

Hi Mark, I found that the vibration was coming from my exhaust heat shield, located under the driver's side, just back of the front tire. The heat shield is rusting away (as you can see in the pic below) and it would vibrate against the exhaust pipe. So I went to the hardware store and bought a stainless steel pipe clamp (see the pic.) Any size from 3" to 4.5" will do. Just unthread it, wrap it around the heat shields, and tighten it with a screwdriver. Just be sure you let the vehicle cool completely! It gets hot there. That solved it. You can also cut off the excess (which I haven't done yet) with a pair of tin snips. I only had to fix the driver's side shield... but the other side may need it soon too... BTW, does anyone out there see a problem with this quick fix, as in should I look into replacing these heat shields any time soon?? -thanks!

This is great! I have the same sticky gas pedal issue, esp. when coasting down long hills, and it's a pain in the butt (esp. when teaching my fiance how to drive a standard...). So I am going to try this quick fix here soon. Thanks to everyone!

Talk about quick fixes to stange noises: I had a similar noise coming from my Pathfinder, sounded like paper in a fan. It only happened at 1800 and 3600 RPM, which threw me for a loop for a bit. I took a stainless steel 3.5 inch PVC pipe clamp to both of my exhaust guards, and bingo, no more noise.

I am having a new speed sensor installed in my '96 pathy next week. The trouble code pointed to the VSS, along with the fact that the speedometer, odometer, and trip meters all quit at once last week. My question is two-fold: does the speedometer/odometer ever need re-calibrated after such a repair, so as to remain accurate in telling speed and mileage, or does the vehicle do that by itself? Secondly, if I were to get a larger radius tire, would this also require a re-calibration of the VSS? Just curious...