packie88 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I meet with mister 510 today about expanding into the nissan offroad world and what products you would like to see. my major thoughts were sliders at a lower cost then 400 like every other company seem to ask. what type of sliders and what cost range ( no bs like 100 dollars or free, keep it real) what design do you like. do you like the shrock works ones with the round tube angled up or the calmini just square tube or are there others im missing. i personally like the shrock works ones were they come out and have the angled tube up with some inserts also he currently makes headers for the vg30 engines that are meant for the 510 swaps he does. were gonna check fitment on the pathfinders but should fit no problem. i saw one today and real high quality made by a place called stans headers in washington state. right now there isnt a y pipe being made and it uses the ball and socket flange so there is no leak issues with these like the thorleys y pipe. also these are a shroty style header, think kinda like the thorleys. My major question is what style of sliders do you guys like and what other products for the nissan offroad/pathfinder community do you guys want or would like to see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I was thinking about trying to start up a rock slider business just the other day....if the materials are bought in bulk, there really isn't too much of a reason why you shouldn't be able to get a pair of basic 3/16" sliders for around 150.... Things I would prefer to buy from a distance vs building them myself or having a shop do em are- -Just a basic setup with like 2x4 or 1x3 as the main bar and be able to use it as a step, with options for body lifts... -A basic setup with a 2x2 main bar and get it nice and tucked up near the body (cost efficient) -The basic setup with the tube jut-outs that you mentioned -3/16" wall seems like a good idea personally, not so thick that it is HEAVY, and expensive, but thick to the point it is doing its job... -Be nice if they came assembled, but that may be out of the question for shipping purposes.... (even partly assembled would be cool, like all the welding done except for the risers to the main bar Basically, the big thing here is gonna be COST.....that's the only angle you would be able to beat the other guys on....is if you had atleast ONE template where you could get the cost down to around 150-200 (as in all the stuff is cut and ready to go, just gotta weld/paint) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) How about a exhaust kit that alows the exhaust to exit before the rear tires,and have it a bolt on kit...Have it in 2 inch and 2.25 inch styles...(priced between 60-120 bucks plus shipping depending if it comes with a muffler or not) Edited December 3, 2009 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I'm sure I'll add to the list several times... Some of the most standard and common items would be: 1) Modified or fabricated bumper mounts that use the stock mounting points and correctly mount the stock bumper for a WD21 with 3" body lift. Should be easy... Consider a reinforced bar or small I beam that can be mounted in the stock bumper that makes it more than sheet metal. Consider doing this for the rear... 2) Rear bumper adapters/mounts for the rear bumper of a WD21 with a 3" body lift. I haven't looked yet so I don't know what it entails. 3) Idler arm brace. Calmini has one, mine didn't fit. AC has them? Make a good simple unit that fits, others may be interested in a dual sheer type. 4) Pan hard rod mount drop. Here is the key, make them so they can be cut down and drilled at desired length. People get 2-4"+ of lift. 5) Snorkel adapter for the 2 door WD21? 6) Body lift blocks, just have to determine the best plastic. I'm sure the R50 owners will have several items also. I'm in NorCal so I don't know how useful it would be, but I am a machinist with trucks and CAD so let me know if you need any help with dimension, design, fitment, etc... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 oh yeah, I've also been working on developing a winch mount that would bolt on to a stock truck without any modifications (aside from drilling four holes or so) just working out the kinks and mathematics... affordable aftermarket bumpers would be SWEET..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Well osr I'm way ahead of you...I have made my own and it conects to the frame using a signal bolt...and I'm able to switch it from truck to truck in about 10 minutes...beat that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 haha your funny... The idea I ahve came from another member's, but mine is a slightly bigger scale version...i'll have to go get some pics one of these days of the template I made.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I'm not...It works just fine with a harbor freight 10k winch and is made out of 1/8 angle iron... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 aren't you talking about a hitch-mount? what about those w/o a hitch (such as myself) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 The Simply fix...get one...the not so simply... You need to modify mine using a peice of...oh 1/8 inch thick squire tube thats about 18 inchs long,you mount that on the main plug(where you plug it nto the hitch)You then weld a piece of steel on each side(the leath of the big frame cross over in the front,I dont know the measure ments are off the top of my head)you then drill a hole oneach side so you can tread a big mother of a bolt in thereand lug it done,wire and then you have a wince on the front that can also be mounted on the rear. Note,I made all these...ideas on the spot so I dont know how well they would work or if its even fesable since it would eat up ground clearance to the point where you could drive over a curb with out getting hung up...unless you truck is sas'ed and has 35+ inch tires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 You could also use a pintle hitch mount to the rear bumper and take the winch on and off when you want,but this greatly depends on the metal used in making the hitch and on rear bumper reinforcement... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 A kit to plate the common parts of the frame easily? Especially the more rust prone areas. Like a pre made frame cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 theres SO much you could make for our community...cause not too many people DO...but the big factor as I mentioned above is gonna be cost, if you can make a comparable, good product for half the price, thats a LOT of potential Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) - I'm With B on making a Panhard drop down Bracket available. That has to be easy and cheap to make for those of us who would rather just buy it then make it. - I've also been contemplating Sliders just recently and I was trying to think of what would look best as well as function best for a WD21. I came up with 2 basic looks that I liked personally. 1) Flat Bar style alone with with fronts and rear points angled up from the bottom a few inches in from the end so your don't gouge and get hung up on rocks. Not to a point or anything, but so that its smaller at least and not just a boxy style end. 2) I started thinking the above version would not protect your doors at all from rocks and it would be nice to have a bit of Tube off the bar just like the shrockworks style. You could easily mass produce both style simple enough by starting out making the Bar ones by themselves. Add tube as the Order deems necessary. And one last thing, Not everyone wants a Weld on Version. Perhaps having the option for bolt on and Weld on would make a huge difference too. And finally, no matter which way you go about this, make it available for Body Lifted Pathy's man. Stock, 2" and 3" are obviously most common as you know already. If hes willing to make them at a reasonable price, and powder coat them, I'll buy em. -The headers would be nice touch if they for sure can compete with the Quality and price that Thorely's seems to be having. Obviously there's people who pick up the pace setters since they are cheaper and I don't have either so I cant comment on the real difference other then what I've read from all the different forums. And you already know how that whole conversation goes so if it can do a bit better on the price side of things then Thorely's, keep up with the quality and coatings of Thorely, and do away with some of the ****** y-pipe issues that many have complained about with Thorely's I'm betting many people would pick them up. Here's a last idea as well. I've read many places that the crossover pipe that connects to the y-pipe hangs down fairly low on the Thorely's. Perhaps you guys can work it out so that it can be tucked a bit higher up if clearance allows. I'm in the market for headers as soon as my Bodylift gets installed. Wife gave me the OK to fix the manifold leak since she's worried about having our kids in the car with a manifold leak hahaha Bless her soul. I wont argue, I just agreed so I could pave the way. -A SWEET option would also be a Alternator Relocation Bracket to swap it into the AC position. I've been thru 4 stock alternators and I can't even imagine how pissed I'd be if I went thru the trouble of putting in a Maxima or Quest alty, or if I dished out the 400 bucks for the Mean Green only to have it go on me. That said, perhaps a Bracket to Stick your AC in the Alty spot too for those that still love luxury. Have to do some plumbing on your own but hey, be nice to have. -One last request. Skid Plates man. We haven't had any available since Runnerman was making them. be nice to see some for purchase again. None available for the WD21 that I've found. theres SO much you could make for our community...cause not too many people DO...but the big factor as I mentioned above is gonna be cost, if you can make a comparable, good product for half the price, thats a LOT of potential I think half the price is shooting for the impossible personally. Who's going to want to make stuff for a market that isn't anywhere near the amount of production as other brands of vehicles out there, if the only customers are saying your all too expensive and we wont buy it. I'd settle for cheaper and more reasonable. I understand that if you make 1000 Rock sliders you can make them for cheaper then 10 so that's obviously a lot to do with it. Whats available currently is much to expensive in my thoughts though. Edited December 3, 2009 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) x2 on skidplates, nothing like 1/2" steel or anything, but a nice simple no frill transmission/oilpan skidplate would be cool I would probably buy one of these if someone made em (its so you can safely run a harness) http://www.xtremerallytuning.com/prodimages/Sparco%20Subaru%20WRX%20STI%20Harness%20Bar%20Charchol%20li.jpg Edited December 3, 2009 by OldSlowReliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 How about replacement UCAs like the ones Rancho used to make? They look bigger and better than any other available now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 1) Modified or fabricated bumper mounts that use the stock mounting points and correctly mount the stock bumper for a WD21 with 3" body lift. Should be easy... FYI, the Hardbody 3" kit has GOOD relocation brackets, they would work on a Pathfinder, but for some reason PA doesn't put them in the WD-21 kit. They are a one piece bracket that attaches to both stock frame mounts. Looked like it would be easy to duplicate if you had a water jet or laser cutter and a press break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Packie88: Thanks again for asking around the forums! Everyone: Of course all of us would like really cool parts, in stock all the time, with awesome 24-7 customer service, for half the money... but that's not very realistic in most cases. What I've done with my business since the late-'90s is sell only direct to the end user. I eliminated the wholesale pricing level and was able to drop the "retail" price of most items 25-30%. There are no longer any dealers or distributors of my parts, all sales are factory-direct. I'm going to start prototyping some Pathfinder parts and see how they go. Upcoming projects: 1) Sliders. I need rock sliders for my WD21 so I'm going to build a set in the coming weeks and see how they work. If I end up producing them for sale they will be bolt-on with the option of welding should someone want to do that. If they work out I'll probably offer them with and without a nerf tube and for stock and body lifted trucks. The square tube will be 2x2, 3/16 wall. The nerf tube will be 1-3/4" and at least .120 wall with two or three spreader tubes between it and the square tube for extra "smashability". I've seen a few too many nerf tubes folded up against the door from hard landings on big rocks. 2) Headers. I've been having headers of my own design built on my tooling since about '98. These are required to do the 510 VG conversion as it's a tight squeeze. It turns out my headers are tucked in so close that they fit almost anything with a VG in it. They are very high quality, second to none in the industry. The flanges at the heads are 3/8" and they use ball-and-socket reducers that require no gaskets and will not leak. Ever. My Pathy has cracked manifolds and blown-out gaskets. My intent is to put a set of my headers on it and have a Y pipe built that uses a ball-and-socket reducer where the crossover connects. This should end up a completely leak-proof arrangement that requires no welding for installation so it can be easily removed for engine or transmission replacement. I 'wheel my Pathy and, as such, anything I produce is going to be well-tucked for maximum ground clearance. If it works out as intended we'll build a fixture off of it and offer a header set with Y pipe for (W)D21s. 3) Panhard drop bracket. This looks to be a straight forward part. I'm thinking of a drop mount that bolts into the stock location and picks up a couple holes in the frame rail for triangulation. I'll probably produce it with 2" and 4" drop locations. I will design it so that if the customer wants to use the upper hole and chop off the bottom one they can. ?) We'll see how the above projects go and take it from there. I'm not going to throw out a teaser of a whole bunch of stuff that will never see the light of day. By all means if you think of anything else that would be cool and is not available let me or Packie88 know. I'm not interested in knocking off anyone else's parts and prefer to design and produce stuff that fills holes in existing markets. I'm a one-man-shop so I can build niche parts that aren't worth a big companies' time. At my "real job" I work for a big manufacturing company so I fully understand both sides of the equation. At the moment there are three WD21s('87,'88,'93), two D21s('87std,'88?ext.cab), and an R50('99) in my immediate family. All are 4wd and local. I can use them all for parts fitment and Packie88 has offered his Pathy for fitment of sliders for body lifted trucks. I'm sure my espresso machine will be working overtime as I dig into these new projects... :coffee!: Thank you everyone for your suggestions and this great community! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Had another idea, upgraded front axel shafts using a U-joint type design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostNcrRanger Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I'd like to see replacement quarter panels,Frame caps, a rear bumper replacement that looks good and isn't poorly made,A roof basket or light bar setup,I can go on. i have a design on the table for my rear bumper that will contain internal 02 supplies if anyone would like info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 sliders need to be of a "boat side" style. like mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now