radex7 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Since this is a slightly different issue, I decided to start a new thread. After completing front brakes, I decided to check the rears. As soon as I took the wheel off I noticed some greasy residue under that cap. I said "oh crap" and I hit the manuals in search for an answer. Obviously I needed to dig further so I removed the drum only to find out more gunk. Arrows on the picture point to the stuff. The front is already brushed off, it was looking bit worse. Bottom is shiny because of the brake cleaner. So according to different sources my options were: 1. leaky shock. As you can see mine seems to be dry. 2. leaky wheel cylinder. Another negative here, both ends show no oil residue (which actually made me happy, as I just save a few dollars in parts!) Here is a couple extra closeups of the leak. There was no noticeable leak from the brake line in the back of the hub, so what else is out there? I started reading up on rear axle, obviously it is a lubricated one as well, but could a busted seal cause that? Has anyone experienced anything like that? What are your recommendations? At this should I even attempt any brake adjustments/work? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 yeah, it's the axle seal that is most likely the deal here but you'd really have to take the rest of the components off to see better. but that is my 'guess' from what i can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I agree. Leaky axle seal. The wheel cylinder would have been easier to deal with I think, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) Ok, I am still reading up on the subject. I think I am going to start off with checking the breather hose and connector on top of differential housing. Apparently, when this thing is clogged, pressure can push the oil through the seals and damage the seals. Secondly I should prob. check differential liquid levels - if that's what is leaking level should be low. But that alone will not fix the problem. Just made this handy parts lookup clip. Edited August 9, 2009 by radex7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 i wouldn't consider that a leak. check your diff fluid level and top it off if needed. other than that, i wouldn't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 my leaky axle seal is much worse than yours (my entire brake assembly is completely saturated in grease), but i've wheeled the piss out of it and put about 60k miles on it since the leak was discovered. when i checked the fluid level a month or two ago, it was only low by about 1/8 quart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 my leaky axle seal is much worse than yours (my entire brake assembly is completely saturated in grease), but i've wheeled the piss out of it and put about 60k miles on it since the leak was discovered. when i checked the fluid level a month or two ago, it was only low by about 1/8 quart. Weren't you concerned about your braking? You know the reason I started it all was because of my weak brakes, but due to lack of experience I couldn't narrow it down so I decided to do it all (I mean first front brakes, now rear...). I guess after I put it back on the road I will find out if my braking did actually improve. If it did, the fluid topoff and the nipple check will be sufficient. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 rear drums hardly do any work, so i'm not too worried about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 You definatly have the startings of an axle seal leak. 1st thing is to check that diff vent you mentioned and make sure it isn't clogged. a clogged vent will make the pressure build in the diff and force oil past the seals. I also agree that it's a minor leak. clean it up as best you can with brake clean, check the vent and don't worry too much about it. It won't affect your braking unless the oil gets on the brake shoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 alex's advice is at best dangerous.. please do not follow it and please fix your stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Hmm.. Unless you're planning a very literal interpretation of "driving the wheels off" your truck, I'd get that looked at and fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I've been there when the axle seal and grease seal were being replaced. It's kind of a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 I've been there when the axle seal and grease seal were being replaced. It's kind of a pain. From the manual it seems like yanking the shaft out and pressing the bearings in and out might be a hassle. Out of curiosity I am gonna call around and get a quote, heck, I will even call the dealer (for reference and giggles), and see what it takes... Will keep you posted. Oh, and thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate it. One more thing, before I put the drum back on, is it safe to spray the hell out of it with brake cleaner to clean up the shoes? Have a good week, gentlemen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 If you want to be extra cautious, clean it up after cleaning out the vent and recheck it in a week or two. It would be a shame to do all that work for nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Chilkoot Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Well my buddy's 2004 tacoma had both seal's go within 1 month of each other. As far as i could see both differentials are identical in seal replacement. Dealer told him 3 hours per side did it in a hour, with out problems. Its deffently a easy do it your self job, take your time, your brake pads probably were contaminated, a bit! But it might not be worth replacing unless they are worn down, his were soaked and glaced over about 10K after and then were replaced. Find something IE. soacket that fits the new seal i think it was 27mm for his. When we checked his diff level it was still showing as if it was full, but his rim and brakes were covered it diff fluid, just a heads up that it doesn't seem to take much oil to soak everything, and keep level near full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 Well my buddy's 2004 tacoma had both seal's go within 1 month of each other. As far as i could see both differentials are identical in seal replacement. Dealer told him 3 hours per side did it in a hour, with out problems. Its deffently a easy do it your self job, take your time, your brake pads probably were contaminated, a bit! But it might not be worth replacing unless they are worn down, his were soaked and glaced over about 10K after and then were replaced. Find something IE. soacket that fits the new seal i think it was 27mm for his. When we checked his diff level it was still showing as if it was full, but his rim and brakes were covered it diff fluid, just a heads up that it doesn't seem to take much oil to soak everything, and keep level near full. Well, got my first quote. You were right 3hrs per side - and that added up to 320.00, brakes not included. Other shop I checked with actually refused to do it due to lack of necessary tools (???), weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Well, got my first quote. You were right 3hrs per side - and that added up to 320.00, brakes not included. Other shop I checked with actually refused to do it due to lack of necessary tools (???), weird. LOL i love it they only want the easy stuff then again some shops get pissed when they get a customer who already knows what the exact problem is. Its harder to authorize an over-inflated quote with a knowledgeable customer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 43252- this inner seal is most important because the outer seal is just for grease and when this leaks it can dilute your grease. 43232- If you trust that this outer seal will keep your thick grease in as long as the inner seal is not leaking then you can leave it alone and this can be a DIY job. Just inject some thick grease thru the bearings with a needle. 4310H- I could not find in a parts store when I did my disc conversion so I used sealant on the flange instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Some progress (with pictures): So today I finally gathered up some courage to pull the rear axle hub out - and, surprisingly it was ridiculously easy! Not sure how am I going to stretch those springs to clip'em back in place but I will worry about it later. First of all - I did not need the pull hammer or any wonder-tools to pull the assembly out - I just yanked it out with my hands, is this a bad sign, or should I cut back on gym? Pictures are here to show what I noticed, and I wonder if there is something out of the ordinary - that could cause further trouble. 1. Pool of differential fluid at the bottom of the shaft: Is this normal? 2. Slightly dirty, obviously faulty oil seal. Definitely for replacement. 3. Some greasy residue on the wall of the hub (inside of that shiny cylinder) 4. Some grime closer to bearing assembly. So, besides the oil seal, do you guys think i should bother with the grease seal and bearings as well, or should I just clean them up and let it be? MY1PATH suggests injecting grease in that bearing to replace the diluted grease - seams feasible to do. And finally, the other side does not leak from the seal ( wheel cylinder does, though), but should I do it as a precaution? Thanks again for reading and for your advice. r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I think you should just replace your axle seal and do what my1path suggested and you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radex7 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 Yup. That's the plan. I did check in with the dealer - the axle shaft is submerged in oil, so no more mysteries there. I will have to clean this stuff up somehow, without further messing up the grease. 12.00 for oil seal - not bad at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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