radex7

Interesting, and weird. Well, I will give it a shot again eventually, will also try to do it in reverse as well. Thank you all for your input. Feel free to share if you have any more ideas. r

2-3 seconds tops, not sure sure howe to describe this but imagine two-three cranks.

The clutch is fine, and picked up as expected, engine was turning over but it was not firing - just like you said.

After accidentally draining my battery in the middle of nowhere, and humbly calling park rangers to drive out to remote location and giving me a jump, I started parking "nose down" so I can push-start the car in case something silly like that happens to me again. Fortunately the lesson was learned and I did not need to do that. But just a few days ago, I was out in the woods again, parked as usually - nose down, I decided to push-start my pathfinder (2001 SE, 5-speed) for practice. Imagine my surprise when the car did not turn over! It was a long and steep slope, I tried it in 1,2, and 3 gears, and everytime after I released my clutch I just kept rolling. Before you ask - the key was in, and turned to the ON position. Do you guys have any Ideas/suggestion why I wasn't able to do that? Did I miss something? Could me being in 4WD at the moment have anything to do with it? As a precaution + good skill to have I would really like to solve it as I spend a lot of time in the woods. Thank you!

This thread was very helpful. Thank you! I succeeded with my installation, and wanted to share these with you: So as you can see on 2001 pathfinder, with this type of wheels, the hub cups fit nicely over installed locking hubs, and I didn't see the need for extending studs.

So I spent some time working on my pathy. I was hoping to call it good. Unfortunately even after full tuneup - still no significant power gain/recovery. I am bit frustrated because I went to a dealer to drive '97 pathy xe (just like mine) - and it feels way more peppy. They both have similar mileage (130K). So I started thinking, why not grab that one with solid engine, quite transmission and a clean body (the complete opposite of what I have now I guess). Trick is - even though they are both xe's mine has power windows, doors, remote and alarm, AC; the other one does not. In addition to that - I would definitely like to transfer running boards, roof rack, rear spoiler, hitch (I consider it bumper extender as I have nothing to tow), and my KYB's. Before I even attempt negotiating down the price ($5900 - LOL for '97 XE), I wanted to check in with you guys if you have an experience with some of the trim differences. What I would like to know is: are the basic model cars are pre-wired for more expansive options - just not equipped. For example - is there a power window harness for the motor inside of the door - even of the window is crank operated... Would it be possible to just transfer the motor, switches, relays, and reconnect stuff? What about the alarm and remote? You may think it is totally crazy, but I wonder because I took my very basic/very old honda apart and even though it did not have a single power option it was prewired to have them - so I set my hopes high... Appreciate your input. r

Yup. That's the plan. I did check in with the dealer - the axle shaft is submerged in oil, so no more mysteries there. I will have to clean this stuff up somehow, without further messing up the grease. 12.00 for oil seal - not bad at all.

Some progress (with pictures): So today I finally gathered up some courage to pull the rear axle hub out - and, surprisingly it was ridiculously easy! Not sure how am I going to stretch those springs to clip'em back in place but I will worry about it later. First of all - I did not need the pull hammer or any wonder-tools to pull the assembly out - I just yanked it out with my hands, is this a bad sign, or should I cut back on gym? Pictures are here to show what I noticed, and I wonder if there is something out of the ordinary - that could cause further trouble. 1. Pool of differential fluid at the bottom of the shaft: Is this normal? 2. Slightly dirty, obviously faulty oil seal. Definitely for replacement. 3. Some greasy residue on the wall of the hub (inside of that shiny cylinder) 4. Some grime closer to bearing assembly. So, besides the oil seal, do you guys think i should bother with the grease seal and bearings as well, or should I just clean them up and let it be? MY1PATH suggests injecting grease in that bearing to replace the diluted grease - seams feasible to do. And finally, the other side does not leak from the seal ( wheel cylinder does, though), but should I do it as a precaution? Thanks again for reading and for your advice. r

I am speechless! Luckily I can still type. This is just amazing. Honestly, I wouldn't do that to my civic, even if I knew how to...

Order placed: NGK wire set, NGK BKR5EIX-11 spark plugs, Beck/Arnley Dist. cap, YEC rotor. BTW, here is a picture of my old and new spark plug. If I knew then what I know now - I wouldn't be so surprised with my vehicle not having any power. These actually might be original spark plugs for the car. Now, I know some of you will consider it pointless, but I am willing to give it a shot, it does not cost me anything: SPARK PLUG INDEXING. The only problem is - I don't know the arrangement of my valves in cylinders. I looked in the manual, and I couldn't find anything showing where the exhaust valves are. Does any of you know, or has a picture of a stripped block with valves visible (and preferably labeled). Thanks

As I am waiting for my exhaust manifold oxygen sensor nut to come in, debating pulling the rear axle out, I decided to jump ahead and do a bit of a tuneup myself. I admit, I do not recall when it was done in the past... if ever. Things done: fuel filter, oil change and filter, air filter, throttle body cleanup, pcv cleanup, fresh spark plugs... and I need to stop here for second. Old plugs had gaps that were close to 2mm. Almost twice the size of the recommended gap, completely fried in other words. I feel bit stupid because it was my own negligence that lead to this, and now I am paying the price. Literally. After seeing spark plugs, I figured that my wires and distributor cap/rotor need to go too. I found NGK wire sets that I think are of good quality based on brand reputation, but what about the cap and rotor? WHat do you guys use for replacements? Dealer/oem? Generic from Kragen or Napa? MSD kits? ANy recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Well, got my first quote. You were right 3hrs per side - and that added up to 320.00, brakes not included. Other shop I checked with actually refused to do it due to lack of necessary tools (???), weird.

From the manual it seems like yanking the shaft out and pressing the bearings in and out might be a hassle. Out of curiosity I am gonna call around and get a quote, heck, I will even call the dealer (for reference and giggles), and see what it takes... Will keep you posted. Oh, and thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate it. One more thing, before I put the drum back on, is it safe to spray the hell out of it with brake cleaner to clean up the shoes? Have a good week, gentlemen.

Weren't you concerned about your braking? You know the reason I started it all was because of my weak brakes, but due to lack of experience I couldn't narrow it down so I decided to do it all (I mean first front brakes, now rear...). I guess after I put it back on the road I will find out if my braking did actually improve. If it did, the fluid topoff and the nipple check will be sufficient. Thanks.

Ok, I am still reading up on the subject. I think I am going to start off with checking the breather hose and connector on top of differential housing. Apparently, when this thing is clogged, pressure can push the oil through the seals and damage the seals. Secondly I should prob. check differential liquid levels - if that's what is leaking level should be low. But that alone will not fix the problem. Just made this handy parts lookup clip.

Since this is a slightly different issue, I decided to start a new thread. After completing front brakes, I decided to check the rears. As soon as I took the wheel off I noticed some greasy residue under that cap. I said "oh crap" and I hit the manuals in search for an answer. Obviously I needed to dig further so I removed the drum only to find out more gunk. Arrows on the picture point to the stuff. The front is already brushed off, it was looking bit worse. Bottom is shiny because of the brake cleaner. So according to different sources my options were: 1. leaky shock. As you can see mine seems to be dry. 2. leaky wheel cylinder. Another negative here, both ends show no oil residue (which actually made me happy, as I just save a few dollars in parts!) Here is a couple extra closeups of the leak. There was no noticeable leak from the brake line in the back of the hub, so what else is out there? I started reading up on rear axle, obviously it is a lubricated one as well, but could a busted seal cause that? Has anyone experienced anything like that? What are your recommendations? At this should I even attempt any brake adjustments/work? Thanks

So close, yet so far... Really I was so close to wrap this up, get it out of the garage, and hopefully visit my friends who are hiking PCT near by. But no, another issue emerged. The replacement exhaust manifold that I just mounted came pre-drilled for both EGR tube and the oxygen sensor. When I got to screwing in the oxygen sensor I found out that the opening is waaay bigger than the original one. What were they thinking? SO I am stuck, again, waiting for the adapter nut to arrive. My vacation is almost over, but my project is not quite completed... Just rumbling due to frustration.

Alex, I am not sure how I missed that, maybe because I was changing fuel filter at the same time and was bit fumigated... but that "clunk" fits the picture. My balljont felt solid, i.e. not too stiff, but not torn either. Unfortunately, with the cv boot torn and grease splashed everywhere, I couldn't tell if it leaked or not. You know, it is not as bad as it sounds. Actually, my other car is 1988 civic, and I swear it was more difficult to do it there. I thing the problem with many self-taught weekend mechanics, is that we lack experience, for once, but with that we also lack good judgment, and the concept of something "feeling right" is bit abstract. Similarly, when it comes to fine tuning things - second guessing yourself - there is no end to that in my case... On the other hand I think about how many mechanics that I've seen working, ever used a pull scale to check the wheel spin force, and did the math on top of it... ! So it can't be that bad. Thank you, guys. Will keep you posted.

Little update. Before I completed the brake job, I reinstalled my pass. side cv shaft. I did that with new seals, repacked bearings, I even tried to make myself the tool for the locknut (3" x 1/4" bolts from Ace Hardware have tendency to bend and snap before I even got to the first torque (58 ft-lb), next time I will come up with something sturdier). Overall I am satisfied with the outcome with one exception that I need your advice on... After putting the wheel back on I noticed a bit of wobble in a wheel, a really small amount. It happens only when I grab the wheel from the top and bottom and wobble it like that. Side to side seems to be ok. Does anyone have an idea what usually causes that type of play? Thank you. r

My "specialty tool" was a pair of needle nose pliers. I tightened the nut as much as I could at first, then I started backing it out just a little so not to create any freeplay in my hub (I kinda rocked it from side to side), then I just tightened it only a bit so the holes in washer lined up with the nut. At this point I called it good. That's what I thought, and I figured that with my "backing out method" I got it sufficiently close. I attempted to check for axle movement, but I only had a micro-caliper on hand which returned 0.3mm, which was well within specs, and the circlip barely clicked into its grove. Do you guys think I am on the right track? Thank you for your responses. Although I do have service manual downloaded, terminology there is somewhat different, and I did have a difficulty with following their instructions, so I really appreciate your help.

Any ideas, anyone?

Shouldn't they be responsible for fixing it for you? Free of charge of course...

Here are the pictures: So, longer arrow 1.5" that's the distance between the face of an axle and the tip of spindle. Shorter arrow 1/8" that's the distance between the tip of spindle and the face of locking nut.

Progress so far: Axle replacement already in. Front suspension components are back in place. Now is the time to reinstall the hubs. I have a question for you. This torquing and preloading the bearing on front hubs is bit confusing, can someone lay it out for me in simple terms, please? Is there an easier way of figuring it out? Would any of you happen to have a picture taken during the "brake job"? I am interested in seeing how much of axle is sticking out, and how far the lock nut is screwed in. It seemed that mine did not go too far, and I used the entire hub to screw it in (I do not have the "tool" yet, but I am thinking about making one). You know what? I will just take a picture of my efforts and show it too you so you can maybe comment on that as well. Will be right back.

Wasn't too bad. I used a jack under the axle flange to pop it off, it was seized up there. Honestly I think I had more problems with axles on my civic. But I guess I didn't get to the part when I have to put it all together ;-)