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98Chilkoot

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Everything posted by 98Chilkoot

  1. Well my buddy's 2004 tacoma had both seal's go within 1 month of each other. As far as i could see both differentials are identical in seal replacement. Dealer told him 3 hours per side did it in a hour, with out problems. Its deffently a easy do it your self job, take your time, your brake pads probably were contaminated, a bit! But it might not be worth replacing unless they are worn down, his were soaked and glaced over about 10K after and then were replaced. Find something IE. soacket that fits the new seal i think it was 27mm for his. When we checked his diff level it was still showing as if it was full, but his rim and brakes were covered it diff fluid, just a heads up that it doesn't seem to take much oil to soak everything, and keep level near full.
  2. my truck is a total loss hail, and a deer collision finished it off, thank you all for inisght and help i listed a few things in the classified section that i won't be needing anymore, that truck amazed me and never really let me down. I found it a little higher maintance after i installed the lift, ie; CV boots and axles, tie rods front struts (never installed dust boots when i installed the lift and my seals were gone in a year. Great truck for what i put her against, i will be buying a Chevy or Dodge.... I mean will Never Be Buying A Chevy or Dodge, i have a Frontier on its way 06 looking foward to a new begining! take it easy and ...................Beat Those Pathfinder's
  3. guys my pathfinder is finished if anyone wants a AC lift with brand new Monore struts dust boots mounts watch the MPI auction. its white pretty beat up but might be worth buying if you want the AC lift they usually go for about 600-700 bucks (pathfinders at MPI). also check out i have some stuff for sale in the classified section would prefer to sell local. runnermans skid plate, LE steeringwhell, USwheels 15x8 4.25 BS, 1 rancho 5000 rear shock and boot, also a class 3 hitch
  4. Well i changed both bushing for the rack and pinion, and i still have a pernouced clunk so tomorrow i will be replacing the rack and pin. with a used one for 200.00. I checked the small u-joints they seem to be tight. the clunk seems to be coming from the where the steering shaft enters the rack and pin. any ideas, if not i'll just replace the whole rack&pin. anyone else have to replace the rack and pin on thier R50? thanks
  5. thanks the bushings are ordered and will be here thursday. I can get a used rack and pin. for 200$ worst case senario
  6. When my truck is parked and i get someone to turn the steering wheel about 10 degrees left or right i get a good clunk, I beleive the rack and pinion is the problem, thats atleast where i have pin-pointed it too. With my skid plate removed it seems that whole rack and pinion moves when the wheel is turned. would it make sense that its the insulators around the C clamp that holds the rack to the sub frame are worn and causing this problem, because thats where the play seems to be, but on the other hand it seems the sound is coming more from the inside the steering unit. I have replaced the following: -inner and outer tie rods ends -sway bar links -front struts, strut bearings -ball joints Any ideas/info would be apreciated, thanks
  7. http://www.kenmtnac.com/WinPat9699.html found this when i was looking around products/prices. Anyone have any coments?
  8. I have been searching for some prices for the same panels that run on the bottom of the doors(polyurathane/fiderglass)?? XPLORx4 has them they came OEM on i believe LE models in 98, i have been doing some searching and can find anything, i just don't want to get them at the dealer because i could imagine $$$$. The reason that i want these is one i have liked the look second i had a nasty peice of steel catch my tire in on the road and gave me a nice scratch/dent along the bottom of the door. Thanks
  9. Yep... I just bought tie rod ends inner's and outer's quote from nissan was too much for my pocket, found some at local parts store 11.33 for outer's 13.00 for inner's, strut bearings 12.00 each, and CV axles 130.00 and all CND prices. That total is about 1/5 of nissan's total. Nissan parts may be better that obvious, but i doubt they are going to last 5 times longer and or be 5 times stronger.
  10. Ya i did some research and i'm quite sure i can use my AC springs, if it the angle my buddy says not a problem he works at a machine shop and should be able to keep the same angle with out any trouble.
  11. If you took the 4 sub frame spacers, and the 2 engine mount spacers and added 2inch spacers on the 2'' AC lift in the front. For the rear add 2'' under the spring mount for the rear diff you'd now have approx 4inches of lift all round with CV problems gone. i like the look of the rear higher rather then lower then the front. anyone see any flaws in this idea? oh and i guess your still need the steering extension shaft. so i guess you'd be excluding the 4inch strut spacers. which id have a hard time seeing them being safe, or like wise no one should be worried about 2inch spacers in the front. i like the idea of more lift thats forsure. and i guess you could get the spacers and just cut them in half!
  12. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-04-Nissa...sspagenameZWDVW my Axles are going (198xxxkms) and i'm looking into replacing them, is it safe going with some aftermarket OEM, like these? i'm running the 2'' AC lift with 32x11.5 tires and i am not wanting mannual locking hubs. I offroad a few times a month nothing anything as crazy as some of you guys. thanks
  13. hey thanks. I think all that info will be a great help, going to get seats tomorrow morning. i'll keep everyone posted
  14. good to know!... can i ask where you ran the circuit from?, i'm not the best with electrical, and have problems reading electrical diagrams but i'm sure i can figure this one out, it doesn't sound to complicated. To answer a few queations asked: i paid 350 CND. they aren't mint but they are in nice shape a little wear on the drivers seat, no tears, just average wear. All the wiring, connections, and switches are included, tomorrow i will be picking them up, i'll try taking some pictures. thanks everyone!
  15. there are 3 seals that can be changed all 3 of mine were leaking very small amounts of oil.. its 2 cam shaft seals and the crank shaft seal at the bottom of the motor(obviously) a visual inspection will tell you if they are leaking. when i removed the timming belt cover i noticed a small amount of oil around all three seals but it was small enough that at 5000k after a oil change it was not noticeable on the dip stick.
  16. thanks alot... i'll keep you guys all posted
  17. So I found a complete set of leather seats from a 98 LE with low miles. I get the seats friday and the gauge panel above the shift for the heated seat buttons along with the harness. i'm wondering if anyone knows how hard this is going to be to wire up myself and if i have to remove the entire dash or can just remove the center part with the vents and insturment cluster. does anyone know if these seats have that driver memory where they adjust everytime you get in, any info on this would be great or any problems that you think i will run into. Thanks Rob Rez
  18. I'm planning on trying to make some money on the side this winter. I'm thinking of putting a hydraulic plow on my truck. Just wondering what people opinions are and what kind of complictaions i will run into. So far i have 175km on my pathfinder, the AC 2'' lift and 32'' Bfgoodwrich All-terrain's. I expect i'll have to put in some 1inch spacers to comp. for the extra wieght. any ideas on where to get a plow checked a few local places.. and no one really had any ideas. just wondering if anyone here came gimme some insight. Thanks Rob Rez
  19. well today i replaced the charcoal canister, and evap senor behind the drivers side rear wheel. Unfortuantly i'm still am getting a error code P0446 (service engine light). any help or ideas on what to try next would be great.
  20. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-AIR-FIL...sspagenameZWDVW Heres a link and i'll double check the part number but i did look at the part number i and it looks familiar as the one in the add.
  21. so i had a civic K&N drop in air filter believe the filter came from a 99 civic. it has been sitting in my garage and when i was cleaning some things out i noticed it was very similar(the same) to The pathy's air filter. the fitment is perfect, it may not be worth going out to buy one.. but the demand might be higher so on ebay you might be able to get a good deal. i'll get the part number after the weekend and try to confirm the filter is from a civic all i know is that its deffiently not from made for a pathfinder.
  22. Just to replay to the Rx8 coment i won't take over Idon't want this to be a rotary forum or anything, but a ton of work was put into the renisis engine(4 years of enginering) and that really suprises me about the motor problems as far as i heard they are a great emprovment from a allready great concept. You hear horestories about rotaries but if they are tuned right and maintained they are "almost bullet proof". I had 221Km's when i sold the car quite a few mods and the car still had 106 and 109 on both rotors for compression ratios and out of factory they had 115, Sorry just have to defend the rotarys!
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