k9sar Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Headers or manifolds, the heads and subsequently the exhaust ports have not changed size, shape or flavor so your normal gasket should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 make sure you are TDC (check timing mark, not just cylinder at top of stroke cause it could be off 180 degrees). The distributor should line up as if the number 1 plug has fired (at or just past the plug 1 post) sicne it fires 15 degrees before TDC. The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 (simple, right? not like my old Ford) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 cool, almost done!!! ok, if i line up marks on the distributor it makes it point here: the FSM has a picture that has it pointing here: the first one also lines up with my #1 spark plug which is correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 (edited) ignore the picture. at TDC, you should line-up with #1 marks align, aligns with #1 -vs- a picture in the FSM hmmmm which to trust... the books doesn't make your truck run. go with the alignment Edited May 29, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 ok, k9sar. so now im a bit nervous. my timing mark is just after the first mark on the pulley. #1 piston was at the top when i had the heads off, and i havent moved the crankshaft since. teeth all counted fine on the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 did you put the belt on before or after you put the rocker assemblies on? IF the belt is on, it is possible that putting the rocker arms in place actually shifted the cams and then the crank. Doubel check TDC if you have the #1 plug out bu inserting a ling screwdriver or similar and hand cranking the engine, watching the up/down motion to catch it at it's peak. cross reference with your distributer and that should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Beast...what I did was followed the molding for the #1 plug to the electrode on the inside of the cap and put the dizzy so the rotor was right before #1...i actually think that little brass colored dot is where the rotor should be but don't hold me to that... if the timing marks don't exactly line up with the timing belt cover marks and is like a tooth off dont worry about it as long as you have the right number of teeth between the cam to cam and cam to crank...those timing marks are for quick reference only (well thats what i refer to them as) and the teeth count is what matters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 ok, started her up, without the fan attached so i could do the timing light better. sounded fine, lifter tick is still there, but whatever. had a mishap, it seemed i didnt clamp down a coolant hose when i put the engine back together, so she started to leak coolant. Quickly clamped it down and all was fine. put the fan on and radiator shroud and took her for a test drive around the neighborhood. sounds fine at idle and lower revs, but when i put more load on the engine there is a loud sound, like something clacking. cant figure it out, next door neighbor said it sounded like something to do with the belts. its definitely from the front of the engine. any ideas? would the timing belt make sounds like that? i would think it would do it even at low revs though right? ill post a video tomorrow, i ran out of battery tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 did it sound like this? http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...nt=MVI_0363.flv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 cool, almost done!!! ok, if i line up marks on the distributor it makes it point here: the first one also lines up with my #1 spark plug which is correct? put the cap on and see where #1 is. it's marked and should be where your first pic shows. that's how it is on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 did it sound like this? http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...nt=MVI_0363.flv tensioner on the wrong side of the belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 did it sound like this? http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...nt=MVI_0363.flv yes very similar if im not mistaken!!! what was that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 did your timing slip or was it something else adamzan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 replied to your PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 so, what was it adamz?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 from his PM it was a problem with the AC belt. probably too tight and broke, after which the noise stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) I don't think it was too tight. I had never messed with anything on the truck at that point. It would make a crap load of noise before it warmed up as well. Like a constant squawking...Sounded like the belt tensioner. I had no idea what it was at the time and I had an exam the next day. Thought it was the timing belt, but it wasn't. Oh ya, the noise is the tock tock sound after I revved it. Does it sound like something else is wrong too? Edited May 31, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) well, the video sounded like what mine sounds like. a metallic clacking. ill have to check the belt tensioner tomorrow. make sure its tight etc. or just try it without the belt and see if it makes a noise. i may check the timing too JIC - to put my mind at ease though....if valves were hitting pistons it would happen at all times right? not just when i revved the engine? i will post a video as soon as i get home...damn work computers wont let me do photobucket. Edited May 31, 2009 by beastpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 uhh n ot sure what you mean by try it without the belt but if you pull the TB and turn it over you're going to be rebuilding the heads again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 uhh n ot sure what you mean by try it without the belt but if you pull the TB and turn it over you're going to be rebuilding the heads again... lol, no, without the AC belt!! Here is the video: ENGINE NOISE its the loud clanking at the beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) To me that almost sounds like something is loose. I can't say valves because I've never heard valves hitting pistons before. I'll go record a vid of mine so you can hear what it should sound like. Edited May 31, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) Here you go Beastpath http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...rent=engine.flv Please ignore my EGR leak lol. Thank god for remote start. Also do you still have those thin metal manifold covers on? Mine makes a similar rattling noise at the warmed up idle. Edited May 31, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 i dont have manifold covers cos i have headers on. yeah, it does sound like something is loose, but i have no idea what. hopefully more people will comment on the video so i have ideas of what to look at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 How does it run though? When you drove it did it have the usual power or less? If the timing was off, you would have less power, and I believe if its off by 3 or more teeth the valves and pistons start playing tag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 If it was out of time and the valve hit the piston...after hte 1st hit you won't hear the impact anymore....it bends the valve and it doesnt touch the piston anymore...I had 3 bent valves and no noise but it was well under powered... Other than that I really cant tell what is making the noise and I can suggest pulling off all the accessory belts and cranking it to see if the noise is still there...don't run it very long like that b/c you will drain the battery down and could over heat it but thats like 5-10 mins or more...but if you pull all the belts and don't have the noise then its related to one of the accessories...if its still there i'd try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from and if its coming from the timing belt cover i'd go ahead and pull it and check the tensioner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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