beastpath Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 whats with NAPA, carquest, checker auto and autozone not carrying head bolts for our trucks? dealer wants 150 for them!!! where else can i get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 (edited) that's a tough one. I checked Advance Auto and even RockAuto online and they don't carry them. I even checked Partznet (my local dealership's online store) and they don't list them either. Are they a reusable part or does the manual recommend replacement with head work? Edited May 23, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 and while the heads are out, I would reco re-lapping the valves. You can pickup lapping compound at most auto parts places for a few dollars (in a small tube) and just remove the springs and use a drill to chuck the stems and grind them by pulling rather than the typical suction cup way. If you choose to grind your valves and cleanup the seats so they seal better, let me know if you have any questions on how to do it. It's fairly quick and easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 (edited) the FSM doesnt say that i must use new bolts, so i assume Nissan reuses them. Guy at checker told me to chase the threads though. can i use a tap for this? i dont want to damage the threads. when i cleaned the old gasket off some small bits got into the cylinders, i tried my best to keep them out but was unsuccessful. is it ok to just wipe them out? and even then, if i dont get some out will they just burn up or is there a chance they will score the cylinder? Edited May 23, 2009 by beastpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 (edited) ah now reading it here he suggested running them through a die to clean up any burs i'm guessing...I never did that on any of my head jobs and I reused my head bolts as mentioned before. Folks don't like to reuse the bolts b/c the torque value is supposed to be to "strain" but I haven't checked the calcs to see if it actually puts the bolts into strain... as for the bits that fell in the cylinder...put the crank bolt back in and slowly turn the engine over...the rings will bring it to the top of the cylinder and you can wipe it out with a rag when I rebuilt my heads I got the suction cup tool for the valves and the compound from napa and lapped them in...the kit i got had a coarse grit and a fine grit...the drill method sounds a lot less work so if you do it that may be the way to go Edited May 23, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 lol, ok, will be relapping my valves tomorrow AM. for once seems like an easy job. Theoretically monday AM the heads will go back on, and then tues Ill put all the other junk back on and hopefully start her up! Thanks a bunch you guys! You have really helped me throughout this ordeal and given me the confidence to do things I never thought I would (valve seals and lapping). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 I never thought I would cannibalize a pathy and do what i've done to mine and it all started with a broken TB and the gf at the times dad saying lets do it and convincing me he'd done it like 50 times...he did it once before on a metro or some @!*% in kwajalene...he told me this after the test drive and was like if i told you that I had only done this once before you would have told me to screw off and wasted your money at some shop...he's was a pilot/mechanic in the army so it was nothing... Hope it all goes back together and works fine...just don't get in a hurry and double check everything before you start it up (i do this sometimes and it can be bad) my last one was starting it up with no oil but realized it before it was too late Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 for the bolts, I would just take a wire brush to them. Throw a straight-edge along the threads and see if all the threads touch. It should be noticable if the bolt has been stretched (section of threads won't touch). If this is the case, DO NOT reuse them. Otherwise, you are probably ok. I cleaned the crap out of my cylinder with a shop-vac. For the lapping of the valves... DO NOT GET GRIT ON THE SHAFTS OF THE VALVES. You will grind your guides and that would be bad. Simply put some compount on the edge of the valves, seat it and spin. Take your time and do a good job. Pressure will squeeze the compound out but it grinds in the process. Use your finger to smear it back into the lip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 Started lapping today. Had to run to the auto shop to get some compound so started a bit late. It is just as easy as you guys said and I was careful not to get any on the shafts. Was doing great until halfway through the passenger side head my valve spring compressor slipped and shot the valve retainer clip god knows where!?!?!? So damn frustrating. Now i have to order one from Parts Dinosaur, only 99 cents, but shipping is $7.50 arg! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 oh that sucks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) yeah, and i just realized its a holiday tomorrow so i wont be able to get stuff shipped till tues most likely. there goes my plan to have her running by tueday actually, does anyone think this is a part Nissan Dealerships will have in stock....im thinking/hoping/praying it will be and I can just grab a couple tues morning. Edited May 24, 2009 by beastpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) i doubt it seriously...but who knows what they really stock...you may be able to find a JY that is open tomorrow... Edited May 25, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 (edited) I have an engine from a 95 (VG30E). I think they are the same. I can certainly grab off my parts engine and drop a mailer at the post office for you if you can't pick one up local. If the local dealer doesn't have the item, they can get it and, if you do it that way, chances are that you will not pay for postage, just the part. I checked my local dealer... list price for valve keeper is $1.45 but they sell them for $1.09 each. I believe your local dealer will be your best bet with a low-priced item. Even with a 10% markup, you are still talking pennies. Edited May 26, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 yeah, im just hoping they have one in stock already. i need the car operational ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 well no Nissan dealerships in town have them, and cant get them till Friday at the soonest. so i ordered from Parts Dinosaur instead and he will get em to me tomorrow. guess i can still put the drivers side head on today....sigh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 so i got the drivers side head on and all torqued down nicely yesterday, went back on without a hitch but then I had to stop because of the afore mentioned problemo. However, the valve keeper got to my door today so am all set to put her back together tomorrow (and friday if need be) YAY! was wondering though: as the timing belt is not wide enough to cover all of the sprockets should it be positioned in a certain way? as in center or pushed back or flush with the front of the sprockets? my old one was pushed back and something was rubbing on it slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 on the crankshaft, there is the timing belt plate and the crank pulley plate that will keep it where it needs to be. As far as the cams and the tensioner, the belt will find it's own place to sit and will not jump off the end since the timing cover sits just off the pulleys and will not let it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 (edited) almost forgot to ask this. when i was cleaning up the block, i noticed there was a rubber strip down one of the coolant eyelets, kinda sticking out into where the coolant flows. its just kinda there, it doesnt move when i turn the engine over or anything. what is made of rubber that is used in the block that this could be? no pictures cos im at work. Edited May 28, 2009 by beastpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 not sure where you mean. I have not been that deep in my Nissan. If you can get a pic when you get home, I'll take a look in the morning or maybe someone else knows and will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 no idea on this rubber. would need a visual aid. btw. the vg30 head bolts are NOT stretch bolts. no need to get new ones unless they are damaged or warped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 best shot i can do for now. i dont think id be able to get a shot of the rubber thing anyways cos its pretty deep in there and the shadows prevent the camera from capturing that far down. but its in one of the holes which is marked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 maybe its the seal on the freeze plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 in my opinion, there shouldn't be anything like that in the water jacket. I would reach down witha pick or hook or something and see if it comes out. Perhaps it's part of a gasket or o-ring that got into the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 well the rubber thing just came out when i grabbed it. it didnt seem to be attached to anything so cross fingers everything works when i start her up. almost done now, however, what gaskets do I use for the headers? will the ones in the engine gasket kit fit? or are they too small. checker doesnt have any they can match my old ones with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I used the OEM nissan one from my engine kit and it worked fine with my thorleys...if you search I think you can find what most people use with their headers maybe they're felpro? I havent had any leaks yet with my OEM gaskets and thorleys but I've only gone about 400 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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