Kittamaru Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Cha... title says it all - got a fist sized hole under my rear passenger seat, clean thru - only noticed it today because of a rubber mat over top of it So once the weather warms up a bit, my dad and I are going to try our hand at fixing it... need some quick advice: What metal is recommended - looking for a grade of steel if possible What style of welding would be best? I can do your standard Oxy/MAPP or TIG welding... possibly MIG if we can get a machine? What kind of filler metal (if any) would I need? What's the best way to prep the area? Can I remove the rear seats for this operation? I mean... it's a cantakerous cavity that's extending into the seat framing... I'm afraid anyone sitting there might fall thru on the right side of that seat... Any other advice? While I'm at it, I'm probably going to look around for any more rust (need to find a way to REALLY clean the underside of the truck effectively) and patch any holes I find. Oh, and also - my pathy failed inspection - front drivers wheel bushing is all but gone, so my mechanic is going to replace that Wed and re-inspect it for me. *shrugs* shouldn't be a big job... right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 the seat bottoms come off real easy, just 2 bolts in each bracket. EXTRA: once out you can drill the pin out and replace it with a locking pin for faster future removal. this is handy as it gives even more cargo space when the seatback is folded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 If possible, before you start, you should try to cut as much of the rusted area out. Rust is like cancer, if you don't get it out, it will continue to spread. Any areas that you can't cut out should be sand blasted, then just use some sheet metal to fill the hole. Mig welding is probably the best way of doing it, however being that it's the floor it doesn't need to look that pretty. The seat track area definatly needs to be strong, but the bottom of the floor you can simply pop rivit some sheet metal in, then coat it with fiberglass and then tar the crap out of everything to prevent future rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 *nods* What's the best way to go about re-undercoating the bottom of the vehicle... I'm assuming the obvious ( clean it really well, sand and grind away visible rust, et al) but what should and should not be undercoated? Again, I'm assuming I shouldn't undercoat, you know,t he drive shaft... but eh, you get the idea of what I mean I think - sorry, just woke up so kinda out of it. Should I weld the metal on the inside, outside, or should I attempt to cut it flush and "edge" it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 Aighty, we're looking at two options: Pop Rivets oxy-acetalyne welding What grade of steel would we want to use? We're thinking of putting bondo/epoxy over the steel to help seal it in. Good idea / bad idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I wouldn't gas weld it... Pop-rivetting is OK, as long as you do seal everything up. For the outside (underside) you can layer regular paint then re-apply rubberized undercaoting over the paint. on he inside just put some paint on it to seal the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 We're thinking of roughing it and doing bondo, then roughing the bondo and undercoating it. So pop rivets over oxy-accetaline then *nods* Problem is, only Mig machine my dad can get is a 220... and we only have one 220 line in our house, running up to our central air system... we could run a line down and splice it in and shut off the central air for a bit... but... yeah. Dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 or you could do what the previous owners of mine did (family friends for years mind you...) Take a big sheet of sheet metal, and put it over the back seat metal, then screw it down and paint it up, to hide the fist-sized holes! O_o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Clean the area, smear it with silicone caulk/adhesive and slap a piece of sheet aluminum over it. It's not needed for structural support, just to keep crap from coming in (or going out). Simple fix. I used a cookie sheet and a couple of hot pads to fix my floor pan under the drivers side feet (above the exhaust) and it's been fine and passed inspection ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Eh, k9sar, it is needed for structural support - the hole has eaten away at the right side rail for the rear seat... I won't let anyone sit in it at the moment because I can physically move the seat because of how little of it's right support is left. I'm going to need to find a JY and see if I can't get a new brace to use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Not to offend anyone, but why not fix it right the first time? I've asked this same question before, do a search. Here's what I did. Cut out all the rust, weld in new metal. MIG since you have access to one. Borrow someone's 220v dryer plug. Coat in rust proofer. No need for expensive POR-15, but use something then put the seat brackets back in properly. Otherwise you have your seats being held in place by a piece of metal that is fiberglassed into the truck. or you have a piece of meal that is rivetted in that will flex every time you sit on that seat and will crack the rustproofer and will still rust again. You'll be feel good when it's done this way. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 sorry... thought yours might be like mine. The rust is in the center and not near the attachment points etc. I have duct tape over mine to keep the water out until I can pickup some sheet metal to glue in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 What I did was cut out all the rust, it wasn't near the seat belt supports or the seat supports. Then my grandfather formed the metal and we silicone sealed between the two so it wouldn't leak, then riveted it in. After that I sprayed a crap load of black asphalt undercoating spray. It still looks perfect after this winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Not to offend anyone, but why not fix it right the first time? I've asked this same question before, do a search. Here's what I did. Cut out all the rust, weld in new metal. MIG since you have access to one. Borrow someone's 220v dryer plug. Coat in rust proofer. No need for expensive POR-15, but use something then put the seat brackets back in properly. Otherwise you have your seats being held in place by a piece of metal that is fiberglassed into the truck. or you have a piece of meal that is rivetted in that will flex every time you sit on that seat and will crack the rustproofer and will still rust again. You'll be feel good when it's done this way. Good luck. No offense taken Problem is, while I'm ABLE to weld... my skills are barely "novice" level... plus I'm worried I'd set stuff on fire XD And we don't have a MIG machine... we can rent one but eh... and the 220 line is a problem as the nearest one is almost 200 feet away in my house... >_> OxyAcetalyn I'm better with... but I only have an Oxy / MAPP gas torch... and maybe enough of each gas for about 20-30 minutes of Brazing... no idea for actual Welding... I'd love to have it professionally repaired... and with the job I just got today, I might have a chance to do so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I'm sure that you can use a flux core welder for this job. I know lots of people who have. A torch? for body? Maybe if you want to burn the rust off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 I don't have access to a TIG machine sadly. *ponders* I might be able to get a Stick welder... but... that's 220 as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Ok since you are having structural problems, your only safe, foolproof option is welding in a new peice of sheet metal. Any peice of sheet metal will work. Cut one from an old car or whereever. It should be as thick or thicker then original. As for welding goes, you can't use an oxy-ace torch to weld in it. They do make MIG welders that are 110v. This is your best bet. See if you can rent one of these. If it were me, I would cut out the rust with nice straight lines and then cut the filler sheet to fit flush. You don't have to this so in your case I would make it overlap a 1/4" around each edge. There's are some more details involved but if your going to get it professionally done then that's a good idea also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I got holes in my floor board too... I would recommend finding a pathfinder like yours (same year, 2door/4door) and cut the floor out of where you need it and then weld it in... As long as their is no rust on that "new" piece then you should be good to go... Then spray with some paint for protection If you do this make sure you cut atleast 1" larger around the rust to prevent having to do the same process again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 You can get those 110V mig/fluxcore welders at home depot, princess auto, lowes, etc... They aren't too expensive but if money is tight maybe you can borrow one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Well, with my new job, borrowing or renting one becomes an option in about a month (first paycheck is going to be used to cover some of the wedding costs upfront) As for removing the rust - the plan is to cut out ALL the rusted/damaged material... that's a lot sadly. And I called the local junkyards and you pull it's... none of them have any Pathfinders there. I even told them to make SURE they weren't confusing a Rodeo and a Pathfinder ( don't ask... it's been done here too many times) andd no dice We plan to do sheet metal, yes - the fiberglass would go over the metal to prevent water seepage and to be used to form a better surface, then it'd be undercoated/bedlined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 No offense taken Problem is, while I'm ABLE to weld... my skills are barely "novice" level... plus I'm worried I'd set stuff on fire XD And we don't have a MIG machine... we can rent one but eh... and the 220 line is a problem as the nearest one is almost 200 feet away in my house... >_> OxyAcetalyn I'm better with... but I only have an Oxy / MAPP gas torch... and maybe enough of each gas for about 20-30 minutes of Brazing... no idea for actual Welding... I'd love to have it professionally repaired... and with the job I just got today, I might have a chance to do so GOOD POINT!!! Whatever you do, make sure you put a welding blanket over the gas tank while you're welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 And if you're going to weld where your rear seats are, try your best to cover the interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Oh, we'd be taking the seats out to get at the spot and putting duck-blankets (welding blankets) over the rest of the inside of the ship Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amo1dun Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Mine rusted out and i just screwed the ish out of some sheet metal and put it over the holes on both sides... mine were hugeand rusted thru both back seat mounts on the bottom...it took 18 years..the seats are folded down..its a two seater now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now