amo1dun

Hey fam. It's been a while since last post hope all are well. 2011 Pathfinder SV 4x4 158k Tachometer isn't working properly anymore...needle flutters and mostly sits below zero on acceleration, sometimes works as it should but it's not right. CEL is on but it's an evap small leak code pretty sure it's not related. Question is if I replace the cluster with a junkyard cluster will I have to get it programmed with a dealer scan tool to reflect the correct mileage or is it plug and play? I would think the ecm would store the odometer reading but just want to make sure before I buy a used cluster. Any insight is much appreciated Thanks, Drew

Hey all long time no see...going to check out an 11 pathfinder today. Can anyone help out and provide some insight on this model year? Any common problems or things to look for? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys and gals

the pump is likely fine. the sender is shorted out. not recommended but u can put a 15a fuse in and i bet it runs for a mile before it pops again haha. get a new or junk sender will work just fine, pump is not needed just swap. it to the new assembly cheers

its the sending unit bud. i created that thread a while back. its not the pump...go grab a junkyard sender ifound mine on craigslist...guy was parting out a 91...although part numbers for 87-89 and 90-95 senders are different i can confirm thay a 91 sender will work in the 89 cheers!

I just snatched a chts connector from advance $7. Exact fit. Had to splice the other ends but it fits the temp sensor. It was part #28423 at advance...cant seem to paste the link

Ok, checked everything again. Seemed ok. Pulled the chts connector while it was surging and it evened out but still high idle. Buttspliced a new chts connector on and its back to normal...wtf?

I pulled the air assembly off but doublechecked everything seems good...bout had it with this rig

so I got everything bac together and now i have a surging idle....idles at 2300 rps and then starts surging to 1800 back to 2300...Also put a new coolant temp sensor in but still surges like crazy...does this sound like a timing issue?

I have the cam and crank marks aligned...i will post some pics when i get home 9pm et... i just want to be 100% sure im doing this @!*% right

I have the cam and crank marks aligned...i will post some pics when i get home 9pm et... i just want to be 100% sure im doing this @!*% right

I just read that whole thread....thought I had everything all set....double checked by pullin dizzy cap and saw that Im not at #1 so im at a stand still ....its more pointing to 6 oclock....where as the #1 is at 7 oclock...

Excuse my ignorance fellas, Doing Tbelt and water pump.... Trying to set what I think is TDC...I have the cam marks aligned and the indicator on the cover is pointing at the 0 mark on the damper. But the rotor isn't pointing at the 1 spark plug...its off a little pointing more to where the coil wire would go on the cap. First time doing this so I want to make sure its right before i go any further...I searched around and looked in my haynes but its kinda vague. what am I missing here? Can anyone shed some light? I have 1 day to do this..

Thx for the insight fellas... Will check and report back what i find

89 Pathfinder 130k auto Power light is flashing again on my rig everytime ....Shifts real hard! and seems late between 1st and 2nd on light to medium throttle, will slam into 2nd around 2700rpm ...If Im wot it doesnt slam into 2nd but still jerks noticeably. . Ran A/T diagnostics and get the "Throttle position sensor shorted or disconnected" code.... Checked the ecu and get 55....no codes found...Idk why it would throw a tps code on the ATU and not the ECU.? Followed fsm procedure and checked tps at the connector on the throttle body and at the AT unit in the rear speaker panel with meter and it's within range with no fluctuation or softspots I can see on the meter....In the last couple months, only once the power light didnt flash a code on startup and the truck shifted like a top...anyone have any insight where I should go from here? I would hate to piss away the $ on a new tps before I check everything I can..

to check the booster is airtight just give the pedal a pump or two with the key off.... your pedal should be stiff if the booster is airtight

fyi, the best deal on a master i found that was in stock was advance ...if u order anything online thru nov30 and use promo code NV27, you get 15% off anyting over $50 and get $25 off a $50 purchase the next time.... i went with a cardone reman, and it was a oem nissan topico unit and came with 4 plastic bleeder nipples and hose (these m10 nipples can be a bitch to find in stock if u need them) total price with core exchange was $65 plus the $25 promo i get back ...not too bad

replaced master today....bench bled the new mc, and rebled all 4 wheels. Brakes are all good thanks for the quick insight, i appreciate it

tried bleeding again, definetely air in the mc when trying to bleed the front....maybe i blew a seal in the mc when i compresseed the pistons back in...idk

I should have been more specific from the start... I swapped the pads pumped them up, still felt weak almost no pedal after a spin around the block...so thats when i started checking for leaks, pulled wheels to take a look at pistons ...seemed ok...then decided to try and bleed, dont see load sensing valve or anything like that, bled according to manual from right rear, left rear, driverside front,then pass.side.. the bleeder nipple on driver side front caliper was tight as a bitch so it took heat to loosen it...started the bleed process all over again, accordingly. now i have no pedal at all. pistons in the calipeers were kinda tight, but seemed ok. pins are greased and fine ...rears bleed fine, fronts dont... If I just bolt off the master cyinder ports i should have a firm ass pedal no?

No, i hav never had to bleed the brakes to swap pads..so all nipples were closed. ...

89 4 wheel discs Swapped pads in the front and now I have no pedal...compressed pistons back in ...went to pump them up and have nothing.....no leaks visible around the mc or at any lines......tried to bleed and rears bleed fine, fronts won't bleed will blip a lil fluid then air after multiple passes....I'm thinking I may have fudged the mc but not sure.........what should I start with.....already checked that booster is airtight... Any sure fire way to test the master cylinder...? If a calipers leaking should I see fluid on the piston cup seals? Need some insight from the gurus.

.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25469-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor/

Idk man, find a welder! Solder wont work... U can try finding another thin nut and jamnut that bitch on their tight, if u can grab a thread of two..u may be able to lock that nut tight and spin it out...

Idk man , thats a tight space in their...you may have to take the cover off and go at it, If it were me, id probably try and zap a quick weld on that nut and tit their and then try again, after that idk cover gotta come off.

Hey bud...read my thread in "THE GARAGE" "HOW TO" section....its called "Engine Coolant Temp Sensor", It explains how u can swap that temp sensor easily without taking off the tbelt cover.....also, to check ur ecu codes...turn ur key to " ON" and flip the toggle switch on ur ecu to "diagnostics" ...when the red light blinks 3 times flip the switch back to "OFF" ur ecu will blink ...count the red flashes followed by the green ..red equals 10s , green equals 1s.......example, 3red then 3 green is 33... ...55 is normal operation...tell us what u come up with....cheers