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Center link


Crispyc
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The center link its self shouldn't "go bad" because its a solid piece of metal. Probably could get bent if hit hard enough. The ball joints that hold everything together are what goes bad. Those go bad, and you usually replace the whole center link when this happens because most places don't sell JUST the ball joints.

 

Or, you can find a good machine shop and have them press out the old ones and replace them, if you can find a place that sells just the ball joints, unlikely.

 

Usually bad ball joints will make the center link travel up and then to the side when the front end is jacked up and you twist and pull on on a wheel. There will also be a lot of play in the wheel before the other wheel starts to move.

 

This is my general understanding of what goes on with these, I'm sure someone who is more educated will share their 2 cents

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I reccomend going with a HOOHAA centerlink, the cost is compareable to a new one and it won't wear out like an oem one. It also increased the life of your other steering components.

HooHaa CL

This is not just a 4x4 steering mod, I reccomend it for anybody who has a nissan pathfinder of pickup, or same steering system etc.

it offer smoother road handling, enven compared to a new oem CL and better conrtol everywhere else you go.

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I see your in NC. Hello there. You can also talk to Richard (Frontier2k1) on www.noas4x4club.com His are the same price and he's got a shop here in High Point NC.

 

x2 on Richards, at least he is a professional welder.

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Yep, though the modified CLs that they sell are reworked stock CLs, they are still "illegal" for use on the road... However since they make use of the stock bar and just cut and replace the 2 ball joints on it with bolt and bearing it would take a trained mechanic to know just what is not stock on it. So, unless you get into a completely weird law suit situation after an accident then there will be no harm no foul... :shrug: Even state inspections will usually not raise an issue with the modified CLs.

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it would take a trained mechanic to know just what is not stock on it.

when I get my alignments done they usually check my TRE's and BJ's, they had noticed when my old CL was getting a little loose and they did not say a thing when I brought it in for another alignment (same week) with the hoohaa installed. and It was pretty obvious, I painted the thing blue b4 installing it.

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when I get my alignments done they usually check my TRE's and BJ's, they had noticed when my old CL was getting a little loose and they did not say a thing when I brought it in for another alignment (same week) with the hoohaa installed. and It was pretty obvious, I painted the thing blue b4 installing it.

 

Why would they say anything unless they were doing a pass/fail inspection? To a mechanic working on it, "if it works cool" in their mind. I know a state inspector in VA who said point blank to all in our club (he's a member also), if he sees it, you'd fail.

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I know a state inspector in VA who said point blank to all in our club (he's a member also), if he sees it, you'd fail.

Sounds like a 'Police academy wouldn't accept me' kinda guy. :blink:

Say what you will about Cali but no one would inspect, much less question the CL...

 

B

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The center link its self shouldn't "go bad" because its a solid piece of metal. Probably could get bent if hit hard enough. The ball joints that hold everything together are what goes bad. Those go bad, and you usually replace the whole center link when this happens because most places don't sell JUST the ball joints.

 

Or, you can find a good machine shop and have them press out the old ones and replace them, if you can find a place that sells just the ball joints, unlikely.

 

Usually bad ball joints will make the center link travel up and then to the side when the front end is jacked up and you twist and pull on on a wheel. There will also be a lot of play in the wheel before the other wheel starts to move.

 

This is my general understanding of what goes on with these, I'm sure someone who is more educated will share their 2 cents

You're half right. What happens is the CL twists and flexes upwards when offroading and the force ovals out the BJ mounting hole on the CL. Since the BJ metal is harder, the CL loses the fight and must be replaced. The Hooha and now defunct L&P CLs solve the problem by chopping off the BJ mounts and welding in spherical bearings which allows the CL to twist under load w/o being damaged. Seeing as the stock replacement is about $100 and you will need to replace it each and every time you take your truck on even a moderate trail, an aftermarket one is definately a good investment.

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I am not sure where these prices are coming from when they are "comparable" to an after market modified CL unless these are dealer prices, but JJ was right when he said that stock replacements were around $100.

 

However, I recommend replacing it with a modified one if you intend on having the truck for a while and/or take it off road, because they will last a whole lot longer by eliminating the flex that is in the stock setup.

 

I have a modified CL, originally built by Phil of L&P but it was such poor and unsafe construction (see sig and topic in the garage for further details) that Trailchaser reworked it for me. Now it is 100% better and safe for use. The difference a modified CL made was immediately noticeable. Steering felt sturdier, tighter and more responsive!

 

The tech who did my original Lifetime Alignment at Firestone commented about it, he said that it was noticeably better just by looking at it and the way the steering system responded during the alignment.

 

I have never had it inspected though as luckily we do not have to have that done in my area.

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Not easy at all, simply because you need to modify the Idler and Pitman arms to fit the modified CL. So, swapping to go offroad would be a bit of work, as you'd have to have a stock pitman and idler arm to swap in with the stock CL. Alignment is recommended any time you change any steering components.

Edited by Simon
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I see your in NC. Hello there. You can also talk to Richard (Frontier2k1) on www.noas4x4club.com His are the same price and he's got a shop here in High Point NC.

 

He's still around in Nissan's? I haven't talked to him in about a year and a half or more...he does nice work from what i've seen

 

 

I don't think NC will worry with a CL...I've only had 1 complete thorough inspection done and that was after i got smart with the guy over my exhaust leak and how it would pass OBDII so he started the inspection and then found out it didnt have OBDII and i was like see i told you so they did everything including the headlight adjustment and inspecting wheel bearings and whatever else when usually its a honk of the horn turn signals brake lights and fluids check

Edited by unccpathfinder
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He's still around in Nissan's? I haven't talked to him in about a year and a half or more...he does nice work from what i've seen

 

Yep, he bought another Frontier and is doing a ground up crawler build with it.

 

http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42404#42404

 

 

Here is his CL thread:

 

http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2970

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I take it offroad only occasionally. Is the CL easy enough to swap out that I could use the mod offroad and the stock on road? Does it need an alignment after swaping.

I'd say the worst that can happen is you get inspected, play ignorant, get a fix it ticket, return it to stock using JY parts turn in evidence of the correction and then put the HOOHAA back on once your outta the radar.

mine didn't feel too worn out and it still improved highway driving.

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Yep, he bought another Frontier and is doing a ground up crawler build with it.

 

http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42404#42404

Here is his CL thread:

 

http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2970

 

 

nice...i remember those fronty crash pix (not the one he's building)...that was pretty brutal

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