atckilla Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 sooo. I was given this 91 se pathfinder by my dad, and he said I can have it. It's got a brand new tranny, but a bad motor. I bought a used motor, got to hear it run, but watching them remove it seemed to be a pain, I'm used to ka24 or sr swaps, I've done a bunch of those, and they're easy, but the oil pan hitting the front diff/susp seemed to be an issue. It's an auto, but i was wondering what the preferred method was doing the swap(leaving the tranny in, or taking it out with the motor) or any tricks you guys know that would make it easier for me. Also is there a fsm to download anywhere? thanks alot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramon Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) As long as i know the front suspension is a headache if the Phaty is 4WD to remove the motor because is hard to remove the engine´s mounting things, and as the tranny is in the middle of the front seats under the car there is not need to remove But! if it is 4WD it be more hard because the transfer case have a lot of things to remove if the tranny is normal 2WD is easy and you can remove both more easily. Unfortunately I have no experience with that by my self only saying what I have heard from experts I know and I am not sure where to but I found full Pathy manual like Haynes but in PDF format in this forum if I found the link I reply to you so you can download it and see all drawings and helpful information there It help me a lot Edited December 6, 2008 by Ramon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 You can usually find the factory service manual at phatg20.net I'd give you a direct link, but it looks like the server may be down atm, or I'm blocked here at work. Give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 you dont have to remove the tranny....but it might make things easier. just watch the oil pan as you get it in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I've got a Haynes manual, but I haven't used it Here's the link of what I've been doing http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20360&st=0 They are a bit of a PITA to get out, just take your time. If your no good at keeping track of nuts and bolts, get little bags or containers and label them Double check everything is disconnected. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 If your no good at keeping track of nuts and bolts, get little bags or containers and label them Correction. Do that regardless. It will make the re-assembly that much easier. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 patience is key screw putting nuts and bolts in a baggie...as soon as the part is out put it back in the hole it came out of (wasn't trying to be rude just funny)...mark all of your connectors and fuel lines and coolant lines (i ususally use colored tape or a paint pen... PB blast all exhaust bolts over a day or so and I use an air impact wrench to keep from breaking them (contrary to belief this works better than torquing on it with a breaker bar I was skeptical at 1st but after not breaking any bolts i believed my mechanic buddy) if you're unlucky like me and do have to drop out the front diff get some assistance...its not good if it falls on you...especially if its just the pinky finger...that prompts a visit to the ER where you will receive the crappiest stitches you've ever seen but they will scrub it out with a fingernail brush and use GOJO after they numb it up and proceed to not give you a prescription for pain meds... BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 if it's nothing that will be in your way, I oput the bolts back int he holes after removing the accessory or bracket. Ones that ened to be left out get put in baggies and labeled a digital camera is good to help figure out where all those little hoses go etc. If you are going to take something apart and it looks like there would be ANY question on how it went back together... snap a pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 ANY question on how it went back together thats true...nissan is pretty good about things only going back together one way which is a good thing as well that or if this is going to be a couple week (or in my case couple year) project so you don't forget what goes where or make a list of what youve dones so you don't go back through for the 4th or 5th time checking torque on bolts (although that may not be a bad thing in some places but in others its a waste of time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 First off, thanks for all the advice so far! It's been helpful, but what you just said is something i've been curious about.. am I going to have to take the front diff, or subframe in order to takeout/drop the motor in? If so I am not looking foreward to it. Thanks again so far, and i'll post up some pics later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 QUOTE(2geepfinder @ Aug 26 2008, 11:17 PM) *Ok here is an updated link since the pinned one blows!!!!! Download while the link is still good. This is a link to Digital Copies of Complete Bumper to Bumper Nissan OEM Shop Manuals for 1994 - 2004 Pathfinders just_cuz_37.gif http://rapidshare.com/users/BZTM6R Password: pdftown.com itsallgood.gif Post this here and the Pinned one won't "blow" I have pulled the engine on a 94 and an 87 and have not been able to clear the oil pan over the front differential (i tried all different things and coudlnt get it) but I have heard of people being able to get it out without removing the diff...I was also not able to get it out without dropping the transmission all the way out but didn't try real hard b/c I needed to store all that in the garage anyways check that out...its the FSM and will give you the "nissan recommended procedure" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) with my auto i had no issues getting the engine out. didn't have to drop a thing.... (except the bell housing of course)...... now...... my 5 speed was a whole nuther animal but still not bad. (i've done 4 engine pulls/swaps) i am a true (and avid user) of the ziploc baggies, black marker pen and neon colored stickers for identification..... if you check out my photobucket i have pics of how i did my first pull.... after that i didn't bother too much with the sticky labels, but i still use the baggies ps: is the new engine from an auto or manual? (askin cuz the pilot bearings are different, you'll need to change it) Edited December 10, 2008 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefBaldEagle Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 just did my own engine swap definitely PITA I used one of those ATV jacks to support the front diff getting it in and out. glad I did when I lifted the engine a little for clearance, it fell out but it fell right on the jack and since it is so wide stayed on the jack (made it easier to put back in that way too) I can relate to uncpathfinder smashed fingers were a major concern - it was easier once I pulled the crossmember off of the diff (torsion bars get in the way of dropping the crossmember) good luck I'll be happy to give any advice I can believe me if it could cause problems it did for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 just did my own engine swap definitely PITA I used one of those ATV jacks to support the front diff getting it in and out. glad I did when I lifted the engine a little for clearance, it fell out but it fell right on the jack and since it is so wide stayed on the jack (made it easier to put back in that way too) I can relate to uncpathfinder smashed fingers were a major concern - it was easier once I pulled the crossmember off of the diff (torsion bars get in the way of dropping the crossmember) good luck I'll be happy to give any advice I can believe me if it could cause problems it did for me Ya about that diff problem, I have it completely unbolted, and its running into the torsion bars, and won't drop. I jacked up the motor like the book said, but i just won't budge, its super frustrating. also when i get to pulling the motor out, is there going to be a window to unbolt the torque converter from while underneath? its going to be like 28 degrees tomorrow so i'm trying to understand better before i go freeze my a@# off. Thanks alot so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ya about that diff problem, I have it completely unbolted, and its running into the torsion bars, and won't drop. I jacked up the motor like the book said, but i just won't budge, its super frustrating. also when i get to pulling the motor out, is there going to be a window to unbolt the torque converter from while underneath? its going to be like 28 degrees tomorrow so i'm trying to understand better before i go freeze my a@# off.Thanks alot so far! hmm yea you may have to pull the Tbars...I cant remember exactly... To get the TC off you need to pull the starter out and I think that plate that is between the engine/tranny and then use your socket wrench through the starter hole to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the TC to the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 I have pulled the engine on a 94 and an 87 and have not been able to clear the oil pan over the front differential (i tried all different things and coudlnt get it) but I have heard of people being able to get it out without removing the diff...I was also not able to get it out without dropping the transmission all the way out but didn't try real hard b/c I needed to store all that in the garage anywayscheck that out...its the FSM and will give you the "nissan recommended procedure" I was able to get my engine out (backed by a 5spd) but yeah, it was NOT easy, however it is possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Got the front diff out today (finally) It was snowing, and very cold, but I dropped it then scurried inside. on my next day off ill be dropping the starter getting the exhaust bolts off, but im not sure how much progress ill make on the torque converter seeing as ive never done an auto swap before, but well see. thanks for the advice so far! ill keep you guys posted, and i'll probably be needing some assistance soon enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 (edited) sorta off topic but, if front diff is removed and the front driveshaft and CV's removed would it be safe to drive the vehcile in 2wd only (hubs pluged to keep the dirt out of course)I'm just wondering for future referance purposes. Edited December 15, 2008 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 There is a gusset on the side of the engine opposite of the starter. It is the only access point to get to the Torque Converter bolts. A bit of a PITA to reach, but not impossible. indigent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 good job and good luck...i will try to remember poking my head in to see if i can help...if you get really stuck and need help right then shoot me a PM and if i'm near the computer should get an email letting me know so i can get back to ay soon...after tues the internet time will probably be limited since i will be back home with family/friends and out and about most of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 so, update I got the motor out but I got frustrated and pulled the torque converter with it. So i'm debating whether to bolt it on to the motor and hassling with guiding it into the tranny, or putting it in the tranny and bolting in on as if i never pulled it (which i was having problems with in the first place) anyway thats where I'm at as of now, thanks alot for the help so far its been great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) the flywheel bolts onto the torque convertor with a few bolts that you access through the hole where the starter mounts (and I think there are a couple bolts holding a plate over the area. I would put the convertor back in the tranny and then bolt the engine to it when the time comes. make sure one of the bolt holes is in the area of access and when the motor is in, have someone crank the engine by hand with a big socket on the crank shaft until the hole lines up. Once one is on, the rest are easy Edited January 30, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 the flywheel bolts onto the torque convertor with a few bolts that you access through the hole where the starter mounts (and I think there are a couple bolts holding a plate over the area. I would put the convertor back in the tranny and then bolt the engine to it when the time comes. make sure one of the bolt holes is in the area of access and when the motor is in, have someone crank the engine by hand with a big socket on the crank shaft until the hole lines up. Once one is on, the rest are easy Ok i'll go at it that way. Thanks partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 and the engine clears better if it is tilted up at an angle when removing or installing. Been there... done that. Good luck man. It's not an easy job but it can be done if you take your time and pay attention to detail. and don't forget about those 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing that bolt to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atckilla Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 and the engine clears better if it is tilted up at an angle when removing or installing. Been there... done that. Good luck man. It's not an easy job but it can be done if you take your time and pay attention to detail. and don't forget about those 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing that bolt to the engine. hah ya they suck hard though don't they! also how do i fill the torque converter with fluid is there a drain plug or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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