adamzan Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Holy crap mike how much did that run you? I'm adamzan on the cntc board btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trancebear Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Love the Colorado sand without salt. Our only issue is broken windshields. Good luck guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thats all you had? You're lucky.. check out these pics from my trip to the body shop... Whoa, that's some serious rust dood... My condolences to your Pathy. That looks like it was a lot of work to get all that body work done. Thanks for making feel a little bit better in this 'rusty' situation Good to know I'm not the only one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunAway Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Whoa, I just joined and I'm pretty surprised that there's so many Winnipegers here! tekazgtr1984, did you buy new flares too or just the fenders? Mine is an LE so it doesn't have flares and I wouldn't mind adding them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Holy crap mike how much did that run you? I'm adamzan on the cntc board btw. It was done at my body shop, and I did the majority of the grunt work myself so.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 Whoa, I just joined and I'm pretty surprised that there's so many Winnipegers here! tekazgtr1984, did you buy new flares too or just the fenders? Mine is an LE so it doesn't have flares and I wouldn't mind adding them. Yo, nope, just the OEM flares. They're plastic so no need to replace them. The fenders I will pick up new though because it'll cost less anyway. Welcome to NPORA btw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) Just started tearing into the rust on my '96. In some spots, it was not terrible, but my left front fender has had it, as you can see. I took the pic after removing the paint and rust with a wire wheel and sander. Punched holes right through it. I plan on buying a replacement fender, found them on rockauto.com for like $125, primered. Not sure what shipping will be... I've never done this, but is it as simple as removing the inner splash guards, bumper, etc. and unbolting the fender? I am experimenting with a rust inhibitor from Rustoleum that is supposed to react with rust to form a black primed surface for painting. Anyone have experience with this kind of stuff? Permatex also makes a similar product... My '99 has fender flares, so I am going to try the silicone sealant idea that was posted here earlier. I also plan on re-applying rubberized undercoating to the rocker panels, wheel wells, and frame. Salt sucks. One more question - I had very little rust on the '96 - certainly none on the fenders - when I used to park it outside all winter. Last couple years, I've been parking in my garage, and now wham, tons of rust. Anyone suspect, as I do, that the freeze-thaw cycle and all that melting salty water is to blame?? One last question - anyone know the paint color/code for my '96? Is it champagne metallic?? Edited September 2, 2009 by dkpath96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) Google Nissan Pathfinder fender. You can get primered ones for under $60. It's pretty plug and play in concept. In reality, a number of those tabs/screws may be stuck and a real pain to get out. I found it easier to remove the tabs with the wheels off. OEM replacement plastic splash shields are <$20 at factorynissanparts.com so I just ripped the drivers side ones off. Wanted the tiny extra fraction of an inch for the larger tires. The fender itself unbolts from a few spots, all easily visible. I know newegg.com well, having built 2-3 computers using parts from them. But Pathy Fender Flares ??? http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/20036641...es-_-2003664180 Edited September 2, 2009 by GoPathyGo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee_cha_nin Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Mine (2001, 170k kms, Vancouver) was also corroded and what I just did (a month ago) was: 1. Clean the fenders (rear) from inside, all around wheels, wash, dry, 2. Sand paper 3. Rust-Check or something similar that chemically reacts with rust and acts as a primer 4. Let it cure 5. spray paint, closest matching color, I didn't spray from the outside, one has to take the rear will off and look at the rim of the fender to notice paint work Will see how it will hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 so I am going to try the silicone sealant idea that was posted here earlier. Be sure to NOT use the caulking that is bathroom tub & tile or any that has that vinegar smell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 The reason for rapid rusting after parking inside is because of the heat. The chemical reaction of rusting is almost stopped at below freezing temperatures. As soon as it gets warm enough, the rusting can happen really quickly. This is why if you live where they salt the roads in the winter, the spring time slushy crap is the worst to leave sitting on your car. I'm not even sure I want to take my fender flares off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 I am thinking that this needs to be stickied....in addition to somone explaining how to get the flares off carefully. I added a set to my 98, they did not bolt to the fender as mine was an XE (no flares), and in 1 year they ate a part of the driver side rear quarter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 One thing I did on my Pathy was to remove fender flares and just put body bolts (bolts with extra large washers) in. Prevents mud and water from getting trapped in there, makes it easy to hose off stuff and ensures I catch rust easily. You can get them in black or silver and paint them to suit your tastes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sc89 Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 I had the same problem...so I attacked it myself..here are some pictures (where ever you see new metal plates, indicates previous rust..sometimes im surprised how the flares stayed on) the last few pics are from weeks ago (im almost ready to paint), and this is my first project ever on a car (I was 19 before I started this, I am 20 now) here are the tires I am putting on when it's all done Question..does anyone notice a difference in performance from 91 to 87 octane gas? if they've tried both Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Very nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Great work indeed, how big are those km2's they look big compared to the snowblower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Well after experiencing a big learning curve when it came to body work, here are my results - my two biggest rust areas (required metal fab and bondo), the front fender and the rocker panels. Overall I repaired nine rust areas, including re-painting the front bumper and the tow hitch, for around $200. I was quoted at $1200-1500 by a body shop for the work, so I'll take the savings - don't need it to look professional anyways! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sc89 Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 They're 31 ten halfs, but the truck is looking so much better now..those pictures are from a while ago..I will get pictures whenever I get around to finishing the thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98ChilkootTrail Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 I'm in the process of repairing the body on mine. Now its not as bad as we thought but I still had to replace both front fenders ( I paid 135 each due to the fact i get shop price) but the worst part is the tailgate. here's the pic's just have to look past what we did to the front fender (after we removed it, the effects of boredom can be dangerous, it was a .22 and a 12 gauge) you can still see that not much was left under the flare. will add more when done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) I have come to the conclusion that all fender flares suck. Took mine off my pickup today to get clearance for the wheels. I'll be #&$*% if there wasn't already a thin film of dirt and moisture trapped in there. The Pathy is now completely fender flare-less too. They are totally non-functional, a pain on the trail and rust magnets. Edited October 5, 2009 by GoPathyGo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 And I thought we stockpiled all the rust here in WI!-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Suppose I want to remove the flares, patch the rust holes, primer, paint, and rubberize undercoat the whole inner fender and under the flare, then put the flares back on... how do I remove those circular plastic clips in the fender that the flares snap into without destroying them? Are they able to be removed, e.g. by squeezing the back end together or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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