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UCA's / CV's / Hubs / Tranny Cooler / E-Fan


Kittamaru
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Okay, now that I'm back with a steady income and most of my "time critical" bills are paid off, I'm looking at doing 3 things right off the bat:

 

New UCA's to get my angles right

Examine / Repair (if damaged) CV's and boots

Replace stuck auto-hubs (they're stuck)

Install new tranny cooler and bypass the old one

Remove stock Fan and install E-Fan

 

How difficult and/or time consuming is the UCA swap? I'm going to have two jacks, 4 jack stands, air ratchet, breaker bars, grinders, et al at my disposal (doing it at a friends house who has the tools). Question is... how hard is the actual swap? If i get them from Calmini, will it come with instructions?

 

The hubs seem pretty easy - read you should get new studs for em cause the WARN ones have a habit of breaking. Is this true?

 

I'm looking at a few options with tranny coolers, but most use zip-ties to hold them on... any recommendations? I want a good brand that will last and cool well... but I've seen a LOT of conflicting info. Stacked Plate or Tube n Fin? 18,000 GVW or 25,000 GVW? Foward or Rear of the Radiator?

 

What should I look into when choosing an E-Fan? Are they a difficult conversion to make? This is perhaps the thing I have seen and/or read up on the least. How hard is it to remove the stock fan and do I remove the clutch too?

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I'm looking at doing 3 things right off the bat:

 

That's more than 3 things...

 

Seriously though, try breaking it down into 1 or 2 related questions per thread and you'll get much better response. Also, look in the product review section, there is a post on tranny coolers that will tell you what you need to know. And NO, zip ties are not suitable fasteners, regardless of what Red tells you!!!

UCAs aren't that hard but different people have different problems (bushings, bolt lengths, shock clearance)...

Hubs, I don't know.

Efans, I don't know, but there are MANY threads about it.

 

SEARCH is your friend. ;)

 

B

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"New UCA's" Not to hard as long as the bolts break free alright (PB Blaster, or another penetrating oil, a couple times a day for a week before you start the work)

"Replace stuck auto-hubs" Simple swap (Auto to Manual) There is a how to with all new pics in the HowTo's

"tranny cooler" Never done it myself, but not to hard. Search, as many have done it

"E-Fan" Simple, search this one too because there is lots of info on the how's and what's regarding this swap.

 

 

zip ties are not suitable fasteners, regardless of what Red tells you!!!

B

:stickwack:

I have NO zip ties on my efan... or any where else on my truck (short of the "factory" ones) P...

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e-fan... if you want somting new I'm going for the new FAL Black Magic Extreme. It may be overkill but I wanna be prepared for when I go to a higer compression & larger motor...someday... otherwise yeh lots of fan talk already here about the other options.

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just a tip for the uca's, make sure you use a tap to clean the thread of the spindle mounting holes. Mine were rusty and sticky. A little oil on the tap and it cleaned them up perfectly. You should use a tap to clean out all the threaded mounting holes on these trucks. It makes it a lot easier to screw bolts into them. I have done all of those mods with exception to the e-fan myself with my limited selection of hand tools.

 

you posted the same questions on tranny coolers in the tranny cooler review thread. go back and read it because they answered that question already

Edited by skrillaguerilla
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*nods* The oil+tap idea makes good sense.

 

I also plan to do my plugs/wires/dizzy while I'm under the hood, as well as oil+filter and (hopefully) relocation kit.

 

GOing to be a busy 2 weekends for me :D

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The E-fan is an easy conversion. I used the fan out of a early 90's ford taurus, got it for $22 at a wrecker. The fan is rated for 2500-3000cfm. The stock fan, clutch included, simply unbolts from the water pump pulley. The system I setup to control the fan allows for an automatic mode and a manual mode. The fan automatically turns on from a thermal relay that activates a solenoid that can handle the amperage the fan draws. The thermostat part of the relay is inserted into the radiator fins to sense the coolant temperature. I also wired in a manual switch to the solenoid.

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I dont have specific part numbers, these are very generic components. If you go to any major automotive parts store your should be able to find these items. The thermal relay is like a normal relay but its triggered by heat via a thermostat thats connected to it by a wire instead of an electrical signal, just tell the guy at the store what your using it for and he should be able to get you what you need. The solenoid is just a continuous duty(can stay on indefinitely) 3 or 4 post(2 power terminals and 1 or 2 trigger terminals) solenoid. If this doesn't make sense maybe you should try to get someone to do it for you, I'd do it for a couple of beers if you lived here.

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No, you wouldn't - I'm not 21 yet and can't buy alcohol lol

stickin to the rules lol I didn't think allot of ppl did that when it came to drinking lol. I know I started underage. Good on you.

 

edit: back on topic: there are wireing kits with temp sensors for fans that give you step by step instuctions.

Edited by MY1PATH
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