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Pathy has a constant tick *vid*


jpawela
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Please advise:

 

 

It's been doing this little by little until now...it's constant at idle. It doesn't matter if it's warm or cold. Lifters, valves?

Edited by jpawela
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Exhaust Manifold Leak?

 

Might be a good place to start... but damn that sounds nasty.

 

That's what I was thinking at first. However, it goes away if the motor is reved past 25-3K rpms or if I accelerate rather briskly.

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timing belt tensioner is going bad.....same thing is going on with mine. horrible tick/knock but way too loud for it to be a lifter?

 

hows performance? any lag or hesitation?

 

mine just started doing it out of the blue about 2 weeks ago so i parked it and was prepared to rebuild the bottom of my motor till i got a stethescope and located the sound at the tbelt tensioner. thought it was the oil pump but i got the EXACT same thing as you do...and oil pressure is OK....goes away with higher revs but absolutely horrible when idleing. no performance loss whatsoever either. my tbelt tensioner is taping against the cover. hopefully this helps!!

 

if it is the tensioner i HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing tbelt and water pump and CHECK THE TIMING!!! you could have/can jump the timing when the tensioner goes bad.....thats what happened to my trooper i had years ago and destroyed the motor(warped the head and threw a rod).

 

Rich

Edited by pathmaker1
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Sounds like a lifter to me. Put your hand on the valve cover and see if you can feel it. Luckily, on the right side, its a piece of cake to replace them. The left side, not so much. If you think its coming from the timing belt, put your hand on top of the distributor and see if you can feel it when it makes the noise.

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Sounds like a lifter to me. Put your hand on the valve cover and see if you can feel it. Luckily, on the right side, its a piece of cake to replace them. The left side, not so much. If you think its coming from the timing belt, put your hand on top of the distributor and see if you can feel it when it makes the noise.

@ start up when its cold I get that sound but a little higer pitched only lasts 45 sec max usally not more thatn 10 sec.

I Mine anit a header leak, I got thorley headers and it still does it.

when it does it on a warm day its usually about 2500 since the last oil change and I add 1/2 qt and try to remember to change the oil in another thousand miles or so.

My guess is its a lifter or valve slap from a not closing fast enough but w/ no ill effects over the years I'm not too worried.

I am concerned about yours tho, going constant like that....

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Well I looked at the vid and listened a few times and I am going to go out on a limb here based on what I could hear when the camera moved around......

 

Given the age and milege, I was thinking actually Compressor Idler Pully (11195-88G00). It can wear out and make noise from causing drag on the engine, especially if te belts have been too tight at some point. With tension on the pully you cant tell. Take up the slack on the belt and you might be surprised how wobbly it is.

 

But I do agree with the others, you are overdue at 95K for a new timing belt ,tensioner and water pump. Get it done soon regardless if it is this perticular problem or not.

 

 

I also looked at your other video of your cold start......does it always idle at 1200 rpm??? Thats rather high.

Edited by Alkorahil
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Well I looked at the vid and listened a few times and I am going to go out on a limb here based on what I could hear when the camera moved around......

 

Given the age and milege, I was thinking actually Compressor Idler Pully (11195-88G00). It can wear out and make noise from causing drag on the engine, especially if te belts have been too tight at some point. With tension on the pully you cant tell. Take up the slack on the belt and you might be surprised how wobbly it is.

 

But I do agree with the others, you are overdue at 95K for a new timing belt ,tensioner and water pump. Get it done soon regardless if it is this perticular problem or not.

I also looked at your other video of your cold start......does it always idle at 1200 rpm??? Thats rather high.

 

Actually, I now have 101K. I'm currently saving for a timing belt service and don't drive it much. Sucks since I can't put that money on other repairs I want to get done.

 

On that other vid, it was just cold. When warm, it idles normally.

 

Thanks for all the comments guys!

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Given the age and milege, I was thinking actually Compressor Idler Pully (11195-88G00). It can wear out and make noise from causing drag on the engine, especially if te belts have been too tight at some point. With tension on the pully you cant tell. Take up the slack on the belt and you might be surprised how wobbly it is.

 

 

isnt the compressor idler pully on the drivers side of the motor? it seems like its the loudest in his video when he is right around the pass. valve cover or the tbelt tensioner. also i thought the compressor pully is disenguaged and free-running untill you put on the A/C. would an eazy way to check this to be turn on the a/c and see if the ticking stops?

 

ill try to get a video of mine up here in a bit before i fix it so you can compare noises with my motor. hard top diagnose w/o being there in person but like i said before sounds pretty much exactly like the noises coming from my motor which i traced down to the tbelt tensioner. im not due for a tbelt for another 10K but i figure ill just replace it with the pully, water pump today.

 

oh and my pathy always idles about 1200rpm upon initial startup(weather cold or hot outside) for less than 1 minute. the autos have an idle kickdown switch that will bring the revs down to about 450rpm for normal idle....not sure if the manuals have this kickdown switch too.

 

Rich

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Actually, I now have 101K. I'm currently saving for a timing belt service and don't drive it much. Sucks since I can't put that money on other repairs I want to get done.

 

if you do your tbelt service yourself it shouldnt be more than about $100 and take 4-6 hours depending on your mechanical skill level. just make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC before removing the old tbelt!!! if you take it somewhere it will run you probably $500+ but i wouldnt know since i dont take my vehicles to repair shops, i do all the work in my driveway while blasting pantera(or other hardcore $hit), drinkin beers, and pissin off the locals/my girlfriend :tonguefinger:

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if you do your tbelt service yourself it shouldnt be more than about $100 and take 4-6 hours depending on your mechanical skill level. just make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC before removing the old tbelt!!! if you take it somewhere it will run you probably $500+ but i wouldnt know since i dont take my vehicles to repair shops, i do all the work in my driveway while blasting pantera(or other hardcore $hit), drinkin beers, and pissin off the locals/my girlfriend :tonguefinger:

 

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Unfortunately, my mechanic skill level is quite low. Also I don't have a good collection of tools yet. I'm hoping to bribe a friend into helping me out. If not, it's off to my mechanic and $$$$. BTW, I'd like to see your vid if you can post it. My camera really didn't do a great job on the sound (lots of other white noise distracting). Also I didn't have the A/C on.

 

Thanks for the help!

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isnt the compressor idler pully on the drivers side of the motor? it seems like its the loudest in his video when he is right around the pass. valve cover or the tbelt tensioner. also i thought the compressor pully is disenguaged and free-running untill you put on the A/C. would an eazy way to check this to be turn on the a/c and see if the ticking stops?

 

 

Compressor Idler Pully. Not the compressor pully. ;)

Arrow points to the idler pully.

 

PULLY.jpg

Edited by Alkorahil
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Collapsed lifter would be my first thought.. pull hte valve cover, start it, and have a look, take less than 30 min. Thats metal to metal sound..

Actually, first of.. Get a long skinny scerw driver, press the end of hte handle against your ear, and use it as a stethascope. You should be able to come within inches of finding the actual problem.

Old school system.

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Compressor Idler Pully. Not the compressor pully. ;)

Arrow points to the idler pully.

 

PULLY.jpg

 

interesting...same general location as the tbelt tensioner. my "ticking" started about 1000 miles after replacing all my belts(minus tbelt) so ill have to check that on mine as well. thanks for clearin that up for me.

Edited by pathmaker1
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UPDATE:

 

Well, I changed my oil today and the sound amazingly vanished! Nothing! The engine is totally silent. BTW: I used the same oil I always use. Go figure. :shrug:

I'll see if it stays that way.

Edited by jpawela
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UPDATE:

 

Well, I changed my oil today and the sound amazingly vanished! Nothing! The engine is totally silent. BTW: I used the same oil I always use. Go figure. :shrug:

I'll see if it stays that way.

 

Valves chatter when it's low on oil. That's life with OHC.

 

If you're running 101k on the original motor, you really need to start thinking about more regular maintence.

The heads are already worn. Don't wait until it makes funny sounds to do a tune-up.

 

'course, I'm the pot on the pedestal. I don't know how many miles are on my rebuild, but I'm sure it's past due for a t-belt. :chairfall:

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interesting...same general location as the tbelt tensioner. my "ticking" started about 1000 miles after replacing all my belts(minus tbelt) so ill have to check that on mine as well. thanks for clearin that up for me.

 

 

Its a metal pully mounted on a metal stud that it rotates on and it is constantly spinning. It wears itself out. think of it as 'metal errosion'

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Update: well, since the oil change, the tick is gone and everything is running great. I have no idea what happened there. I didn't let the oil go that long since its last change. I think however, I'll just suck it up and have the timing belt done as well as fixing an oil pressure switch.

 

I thank all of you for your input and comments!

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