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i just put headers on my truck and am very happy but was wandering how do you get the oil filter off. will be needing to change the oil in not to long and am not shure how to go about it. is there a filter that i can leave on a couple of times.

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do you have any pics for us? is it a close fit or what? cuz if you can't fit an oil filter wrench on the top of it, a strap-style wrench might be able to get around it. i just changed my oil today and found out that a Penzoil oil filter doesn't have enough clearance to fit an oil filter wrench in between the filter and the frame. i know for sure that bosch works, but i don't have headers.

 

i wouldn't leave the same filter on because as soon as you let the new oil go through the old filter, it'll get dirty again.

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I'm pretty confused with this whole header in the way thing...B4 I dropped the engine with thorleys the oil filter was a PITA...now with the thorleys it's easy as pie to get to...but most people run an oil filter relocation kit...

 

you got a pic? auto or manual set of headers and/or truck?

 

i've got a manual 87 with an auto set of headers on a 95 engine and theres a ton of room...

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yeh, um... I never had a problem with the oil filter.

I figured it may become a PITA once my Doug Thorleys go in so I used a relocator kit b4 I did my headers. now my filter is mounted above my trany x-member and REALLY EASY TO GET TO!

 

If your headders are right against the oil filter (I'm guessing there's next to no room) You may have to get creative... as in

1) remove the headder and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again.

or

2) take a jab-saw cut off half the filter and remove the rest with a band-type filter wrench and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again.

 

if there is enough room to get a new filter in let us know, I might just switch back

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Yup, a very tight fit between the headers and the frame rail but doable. IIRC, you'll have to bust a knuckle or two with a strap wrench to get it off. You can mount a relo kit without removing the headers, it's just tricky. Attach the hoses to the block adapter first, then twist it onto the block through the wheel well.

If you do get the relo kit you can buy a set of 36" hoses and mount it to the trans x-member.

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are you saying to relocate your oil filter to the transmission cross member? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me.. Keep it in the engine compartment where it belongs

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are you saying to relocate your oil filter to the transmission cross member? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me.. Keep it in the engine compartment where it belongs

I don't think it matters where it goes.

I guess me and jj big shoe like the x-member cause its easy for oil changes, it leaves the engine bay a little cleaner and unless you get hung up on a really odd shaped rock its pretty wel protected.

I also noticed that having the oil pass thru filter that is away from a central heat source allows the oil temps to be a little bit cooler. Not as effective as an actual oil cooler but still has some benifit vs having it under the hood (which I have done also).

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everything under my rig is bashed up.. all it would take is a branch to come up and stab a hole in it and leave you dead in the water.

as far as cooling. I have only had a overheating issue once.. and thats because i was only getting 2 gallons of coolant throught the rad.

 

I have no Shroud, and my font end is blocked off by a winch and exo stuff. my manual tranny overheats when snow wheeling) but NEVER the engine.

 

I stand by my original comment.. the oil finter on the tranny cross member is a bad idea.. if it works for you GREAT! But i would never recommend it.

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if you add a skid plate doesnt that make the easy access invalid...I think i'd keep it close to the bay myself

Not necessarily. You can add a plate, have the filter on top of it, and still be able to reach it. Sure, you'll drop oil all over the skidplate, but they typically have holes in them to drain it out anyways. Then give it a wipe, and install the new filter.

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are you saying to relocate your oil filter to the transmission cross member? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me.. Keep it in the engine compartment where it belongs

 

 

I put mine the same place. No issues yet. Seems to be out of the way. I may make a small skid for it in the future.

 

t_filter1m_3b89488.jpg

 

t_filter2m_3e863de.jpg

 

t_filter3m_ee5997d.jpg

 

t_filter4m_eb153ea.jpg

 

Mark

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anyone know if they have had any adverse effects on oil pressure from the longer run?

 

Clean instl btw msavides...how frequently do you inspect the hoses? I'd probably try to get some cushion P-clips or butterfly clamps to tie them off with instead of the tie wraps

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I put mine the same place. No issues yet. Seems to be out of the way. I may make a small skid for it in the future.

 

t_filter2m_3e863de.jpg

 

t_filter3m_ee5997d.jpg

 

Mark

 

wow I almost thought I was looking @ my own pathy only I used a single filter.

 

I never said anyting about overheating, IMO letting oil cool a little b4 going back to the engine is good for the engine but maybe it doesn't make any differance since its gone 18yrs w/o it. I don't know.

we Can all agree that no matter where you put it; it will make it easier than trying to squeze filter between the headers each time?yeh?

Edited by MY1PATH
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anyone know if they have had any adverse effects on oil pressure from the longer run?

 

Clean instl btw msavides...how frequently do you inspect the hoses? I'd probably try to get some cushion P-clips or butterfly clamps to tie them off with instead of the tie wraps

 

 

Good Idea. I will do that.

 

I May not even need any clamps anymore. It has been there for a year now. Hopefully it is formed and will stay together. I chose the location based on the least amount of bend on the hoses. Even a closer location with larger kink in the hose will effect pressure more that overall length. My hoses are a sweep with not even the slightest kinking. I experimented with several locations and they resulted in bends that were too sharp for my liking. I know once it get put under pressure that it will be ok. But that initial prime may take its toll. Also since My filter is lower than the engine I do not have a problem with drain back. It takes more effort to pump up than down.

 

Mark

Edited by msavides
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I think 87Pathy might thrash his more than some of us. I do agree with him under those cirumstances, but mostly its not an issue for me. I do carry a stock filter and oil when I go wheeling just in case a hose gets cut, though.

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i just put headers on my truck and am very happy but was wandering how do you get the oil filter off. will be needing to change the oil in not to long and am not shure how to go about it. is there a filter that i can leave on a couple of times.

I had a hell of a time with the pace setter headers on my 93 4x4 manual both were to long and needed cutting after all was done and together "ya no space to get at the oil filter! so an easy fix after taking it all apart for a 4th time hammer out a flat area just above the filter just a pit to be able to get your hand in there and not up struck the exhaust flow thats if you don't go for the relocation kit. other hints nice to have retapped manifold holes because the stock ones suck! and I used some valve head bushings the ones that are like 3/8 thick they work great the bolts have yet too get loose! after a year of daily driving!

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  • 2 weeks later...

hay thanks for all the help. i was gone for over a week and as always work has been crazy since i have got back. cant find a kit on summit but found this one on jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans%20Dapt/969/1113/10002/-1 the one on summit dos not say it will fit the 3.0 v6. also is it any better to put the double on. again thanks for all the help will probable be ordering one in the next week.

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