amyj1969 Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Just replacd timing belt ,w ater pump, etc, new belt wants to walk off the pulleys when i start it. I know thye have directional arrows, but it doesnt matter whatever way it is put on, it still wnats to walk off the puleys. Any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 YES, ADJUST YOUR TESNION CORRECTLY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 ok. tighten down where spring has pressure and belt wants to walk off. if you leave spring with no tension but still touches stud, than belt stays on. Should it have no tension on it but still touching stud? Like I said when you put little tension on the spring, the tbelt walks off the pulley. never worked on a pathy before and after hearing the horror stories of a broken belt, want to make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 I have to confess I am not quite understanding what you're trying to say... I have never heard of anything like this. Is the belt is tightened correctly per these instructions? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 Are the thin sheetmetal disks on either side of the crankshaft pulley? If so, I am at a loss to offer any ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 ok, he tore it down, put on the new water pump, got it in time, put everyhting back on, but when he went to put on the belts, alt, w pump, etc, the belts would not line up woth the pulleys. Come to find out the parts store gave us the wrong water pump, and regretfully so he had to tear it all back apart, and what a shame cause it sounded so good. Anyhow got the right pump, put it , aligned the timing marks, now the tensioner is the problem. when he puts the tensioner where it should be, the allen wrench hole at the 5 o'clock position, the timing belt walks itself off of the pulleys. Right now the allen wrench is setting around 11 o'clock, the belt sits just fine, and doesnt walk itsef back off of the pulleys, but there is no pressure or tension on the spring behind it. The timing belt will not stay on the pulleys if the tension is set at 5 o'clock. when the wrong water pump was on, it was perfect. Now he cant get it set right and we have read the thread about changing timing belt, but the tensioner will not set at 5 o'clock cause the beltworks itself off of the pulleys and it makes no sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) i have never bothered to see where my allen wrench is. i adjust the belt until it's the proper tension..... question. HOW did he manage to install "the wrong h2o pump?"... just curious...... also, when you're tightening the t belt is anything else moving around? do oyu have the cam sprocket marks int he correct position? Edited March 12, 2008 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Is it possible the stud that the tensioner rides on got bent somehow during the second disassembly? Or that the idler bearing is shot? That would certainly explain why the belt walks when the tensioner is up against it. Totally frustrating I know, but try to slow down and don't assume anything is correct until you check it. You'll find the problem. I'm guessing the parts store prolly gave them a 2WD H2O pump the first time, IIRC they stick out further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 first, the water pump was for a 96 and up, my pathy is a 91, only difference is where the pulley goes on, the nose sticks out further for a newer one. Nothing else moves when he tightens the t belt. they sya to have the little keyhole in the 5 o'clock position, but it dont work there. it is in the 11 oclock position, but he turned it over once and it still runs very smooth and the belt is fine. the cams dont move when he has it there, and it is perfectly in time. like i said everything is fine, tensioner just doesnt sit where manual and the timing change thread says it should. runs good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) Well...is it possible you've got the tensioner on backwards? 11 o'clock, is 180degrees from 5 o'clock, so you could have the tensioner on wrong, but everything else right. I dunno, I'm just guessing... Edited March 12, 2008 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 he said it isnt backwards, it just wont work at the 5 o'clock position. He thinks that is where it was before he first tore it down. We are about ready to just put it back together like it is because it runs really good, just dont want something to happen and lose the motor.It is a shame, because with the wrong water pump everything l;ined up perfectly, timing marks, tension and all and it ran and sounded better than it ever did. Which it runs good now, but just worried about the darn tensioner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) if the position (5 o'clock) is the only thing stopping your pathy running good. then go ahead and tighten it until the belt is correct tension (ignore 5 o'clock) and go with it. i have never paid attention to having the tensioner exactly as they say...... i have found all trucks are different, and i want my belt tension right, so i will do whatever it takes to achieve that. Edited March 12, 2008 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thank you very much. I think that is what we are going to do, but now have another problem. transmission cooling line connector snapped at radiator, just about outta money and now dont know what to doa bout that with a new radiator costing around $150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) Thank you very much. I think that is what we are going to do, but now have another problem. transmission cooling line connector snapped at radiator, just about outta money and now dont know what to doa bout that with a new radiator costing around $150 Great time to install an aftermarket tranny cooler If you look in the how to section i think theres a thread on it. And they aren't that expensive. Just bypass the stock cooler all together. Edited March 12, 2008 by redfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Yep....bypass the rad anyways...plug the holes for the tranny lines, and run an aftermarket cooler. You can pick one up that's rated for 20,000lbs for well under $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Wasn't it Aaron who used two factory Explorer oil coolers from JY? With as many of those as there are in JY's, I'd suspect they would be dirt cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Forgive me for being annoying, but if my fear is correct, you could have a problem (and soon)... Is he absolutely positive he re-installed both of the thin sheetmetal disks on either side of the crankshaft pulley? And installed so they flare slightly outward? The outer one needs to be removed to see the timing mark. If you forget to reinstall it (it goes BETWEEN the pulley and timing belt cover), it will cause problems. It is there to keep the belt centered. Without it, the belt can walk forward and hit the cover. Shredding and failure will result. It is very easy to forget. We did once, but noticed it on the "gotta put back in" parts tray before starting, so we just had to dismantle everything and pull the cover off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 He hasn't gotten it back together yet, just wanting to make sure about the tensioner and spring. he was wondering if the spring is supposed to have attention when it rests against the stud? This spring doesn't have any tension but it is resting against the stud. havent figured out what gonna do about the tranny lines, prob depends on what is the cheaper rout, cause money is running very low, but thank you to all of you for the suggestions and info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 ok. tighten down where spring has pressure and belt wants to walk off. if you leave spring with no tension but still touches stud, than belt stays on. I think, you have incorrectly installed tensioner roller. Correct installation sequence: 1. Install tensioner, hook tensioner spring on stud. Rotate tensioner (use hex wrench) FULLY CLOCKWISE, hold tensioner in this "clockwise to max" position and temporarily tighten tensioner lock nut. 2. Set timing belt on sprockets. Check timing mark aligning on belt, sprockets and belt cover. 3. Loose tensioner lock nut, set required t-belt tension (rotating tensioner COUNTER-CLOCKWISE), retight lock nut, check belt tension. Correct tension if nesessary. I.e., simple rule to check installation - t-belt tension must rise when you rotate tensioner counter-clockwise. And forget all these "5 o'clock"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Is it possible the stud that the tensioner rides on got bent somehow during the second disassembly? Or that the idler bearing is shot? That would certainly explain why the belt walks when the tensioner is up against it. Totally frustrating I know, but try to slow down and don't assume anything is correct until you check it. You'll find the problem. I'm guessing the parts store prolly gave them a 2WD H2O pump the first time, IIRC they stick out further. The 2wd pump will fit the block and accessories... it wont fit the timing cover... you would have to use a 2wd timing cover(Max vg30e) My 91 is running a 2wd pump and the timing covers that came with the motor... my oil pump did not have the bolt hole for the bottom timing cover bolt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 the tensioner is just above the word "you" in black text, in the above photo. is yours in that position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 Hijack: The 2wd pump will fit the block and accessories... it wont fit the timing cover...Not on the v-groove acessory pulleys (87 to be exact). I had to use my old WP and mod the timing cover to fit a 2wd oil pump and the 4wd WP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 *Kicks jj in the knee.... now you know how mine feels... is the 90 and newer a different part # for the pump???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share Posted March 13, 2008 yea it was a different part number. i contacted the parts store and they exchanged the wrong pum with the right one, even up. just concerned about the tensioner and the spring, but timing marks are lined up and tension on timing belt is right, so i think he is going to put it back together and as far as the rad and tranny lines he is going with the tranny cooler and just bypasss the rad al together, just has to find a place to mount the cooler, prob have to take off the grill and palce it in fron of ac rad, no room between rad and ac so has to do it that way. thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 timing marks are lined up and tension on timing belt is right That is all that matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyj1969 Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 We have tried 2 differnet timing belts, once with directional arrows right way, and once the other way thinking maybe factory stamp was wrong, because bought a cheap one. then bought a Gates belt,, tension is completely correct, finally got it figured out and tensioner is setting at the 5 o'clock position Tension on belt had been tried at 5 5:30 and 6, there is a 90 degree angle when you twist and between 13 mm and 14.5 mm as the manual says. Belt is still walking itself off of the pulleys. Spun tensioner, rotates smoothly and barely any noise. Once when he had it readfy and tried it, the belt walked itself backward towards the block. come to find out the spring had popped off of the tensioner. Does anyone have any more suggestions? You have all helped me out a lot and this is our only running vehicle and we are about to the point of towing it to the scrap yard. It has been down for 2 weeks now. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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