mfoley412 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Did this yesterday to my 95 SE. Very easy procedure raised the sagging front end about two inches or so. All I did was rotate 2 splines and crank the bars until there was 2" of the adjuster bolt sticking out from each side. Looks way better now!! less bouncy ride as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Old thread I know but question. I took the t-bar, cross member and t-bars out of the front and rear anchors when I removed it all to get my tranny out. I marked them but.........the white-out I used got knocked off, so I'm not 100 percent sure where to clock everything when I go back together. Can anyone tell me a good place to start, that is, first, where should I clock the rear anchors inside the cross member? The front anchors are stationary so I guess next I need to know where do I clock or spline the t-bars themselves inside the rear anchors to make sure they are the same? Can I just pick an arbitrary spot, the same spot, on the Left and Right t-bar and insert into the rear anchors in as close to the same spot as possible on both sides. Or is there a certain mark and spot I should look for to use for clocking these and getting them back in correctly? Help needed, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 you can put the rear adjusters on anyway you like, if you start out with them pointing down to the 4 o'clock position (pass side) and 8 o'clock position ( dr. side) you may not leave yourself enough room to adjust them. I would just put the adjusters on as far down as you can and still get the bolt through the top of the cross member, you don;t have to adjust them all the way but this way you leave yourself room to adjust them, the only negative thing is they may stick down below the bottom of the cross member and can be hit if you do heavy wheeling. Just looked in the service manual and it shows the adjusters pointing at the positions I said, the manual also has a measurement for the amount of thread that sticks out above the lock nut on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Ahardb0dy, so it doesn't matter what position the t-bars themselves are clocked, it's just matters where the rear anchors are clocked? Also the clock positions you mention, from ths FSM 4 and 8 o'clock that looking from behind the cross member toward the front of the truck, right? Thx, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 so it doesn't matter what position the t-bars themselves are clocked Yes, exactly! I think they can only be one way or you can't line up the tensioning bolt. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 "Also the clock positions you mention, from ths FSM 4 and 8 o'clock that looking from behind the cross member toward the front of the truck, right?" Yes, the bars can go in any way you put them, the rear adjuster is limited by the length of the adjusting bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 The adjusting nut and lock nut on mine were at about the halfway point (maybe a little less than half, closer to the x- member) of the bolt from the top of the cross member to the tip. And from memory, I believe the rear anchors on both sides were inside the cross member or un-exposed for the most part like several folks have recommended. Oh and this is all predicated on looking from behind the cross member toward the front of the truck (as far as the rear anchor clocking), right? My rig wasn't sagging too much before I started working on it but I do plan on some aftermarket UCA's, cranked T-bars and JGC coils for a lift. That is unless I decide to not be cheap and buy a full boat suspension lift. Thx, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 The two nuts on top should be sitting right against the half round metal piece on top of the cross member, the only place they could be. Some say the adjuster should be tucked up inside the cross member so it can't get hit by anything, it depends on the type of off roading you do on how important it may be to you if the adjuster is sitting below the cross member. If your adjusters are already inside the cross member and you were going to try to adjust them to get more lift, you would probably run out of adjustment and would need to re-index the bars. On my old hardbody my adjusters were not inside the cross member and I never had a problem with them being low, I usually only ran in sand and mud so wasn't worried about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Rotary Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 kinda older subject matter, but if i were to buy the 3" coils from 4x4parts, and the 1" spacers. could i index my front to keep the truck level while i save up to buy the front arms?? normally i would just buy the whole kit. but i'm in the process of buying a new home. so saving a couple bucks today, and respending later may sound stupid... but right now makes sense lol. so in short, can i get about 2.5" out of my Torsions to keep my front level from a 3" rear lift spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Rotary Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 ^^^ Posted in a different section. no need to worry about this post ^_^ thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branman1229 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I've been researching this topic, and have learned alot about my 88 se pathfinder. I've been wanting to raise the front back up a few inches to make it level with the rear. I didn't want to have to reindex them at this time, so I loosened the lock nut on the torsion adjuster and was gonna see how much I could get out of the adjustment. Luckily for me, I got the 2 1/2 inches I needed. One thing I didn't read on here on which way to turn the nut on the bottom of the adjustment bolt. If others were like me and didn't know which way to turn it, I'm just gonna clarify just in case. First take the tension off the front end by jacking it up in the front. This made it a whole lot easier to turn the bolt. Anyway, you turn the bolt, if you were looking up a t it from the ground, clockwise, or just like you were tightening it up. This makes the bolt end with the threads longer at the top, so it runs up to the under pan. I didn't know which way, but figured it out. Only break the lock nUT that's on the top. The other nut stays stationary. The length of the bolt at the top is 3" for factory spec from what I read. I cranked mine up to make the bolt 4" long at the top, which is almost all I could get, but it was enough to get the 2" I needed. Hope this might help. Thanks to the ones who posted on this. Great information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 don't forget to run the lock nut back down so it's touching the big nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branman1229 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 True statement -^. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 And get it aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branman1229 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 How do u post pictures on here? I can put up a before and after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Host elsewhere (I use Photobucket, other sites work just as well), copy the direct image link, click the thing above the reply box that looks like a Polaroid of a tree (between the hyperlink buttons and the < >), paste it in, and it'll show up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I'm getting in on this show next week when I get a few minutes to get fleurys spacers installed in the back! Thanks Steve for the 2" kit, looks great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now