branman1229

Old thread, but I just replaced these pieces on both of my doors yesterday. I agree with old flounder. Put the yellow and white clips inside the part they clip into on the door mechanism and then thread the key lock rod through the clip. You have to detach the key lock rod at the lock to do this. You thread the rod into the top of the big off white part, then through the yellow clip you installed, then through the bottom hole and twist the off white part to right to lock it in. After that, it's time consuming, you just attach the rod back onto the lock itself and lock it into place. NE careful. Clips are old and brittle. If I can figure how to put up pictures I will.

Old thread, but I just replaced these pieces on both of my doors yesterday. I agree with old flounder. Put the yellow and white clips inside the part they clip into on the door mechanism and then thread the key lock rod through the clip. You have to detach the key lock rod at the lock to do this. You thread the rod into the top of the big off white part, then through the yellow clip you installed, then through the bottom hole and twist the off white part to right to lock it in. After that, it's time consuming, you just attach the rod back onto the lock itself and lock it into place. NE careful. Clips are old and brittle. If I can figure how to put up pictures I will.

How do u post pictures on here? I can put up a before and after.

True statement -^.

I've been researching this topic, and have learned alot about my 88 se pathfinder. I've been wanting to raise the front back up a few inches to make it level with the rear. I didn't want to have to reindex them at this time, so I loosened the lock nut on the torsion adjuster and was gonna see how much I could get out of the adjustment. Luckily for me, I got the 2 1/2 inches I needed. One thing I didn't read on here on which way to turn the nut on the bottom of the adjustment bolt. If others were like me and didn't know which way to turn it, I'm just gonna clarify just in case. First take the tension off the front end by jacking it up in the front. This made it a whole lot easier to turn the bolt. Anyway, you turn the bolt, if you were looking up a t it from the ground, clockwise, or just like you were tightening it up. This makes the bolt end with the threads longer at the top, so it runs up to the under pan. I didn't know which way, but figured it out. Only break the lock nUT that's on the top. The other nut stays stationary. The length of the bolt at the top is 3" for factory spec from what I read. I cranked mine up to make the bolt 4" long at the top, which is almost all I could get, but it was enough to get the 2" I needed. Hope this might help. Thanks to the ones who posted on this. Great information.