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Have A Question For Y'all


TruBlu
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Hey guys, this could be my first and last post or it could be the start of your new forum serial poster....lets see eh?

 

I recently crashed my Subaru....and I've been on the look out for a new vehicle. I stumbled across the a 1994 Pathy in relatively good shape. A little rust in the rear rails (read the FAQ and this seems to be common) and a slightly dinged up front end. The guy is asking $400 for it. But here is the deal. He took a deposit on it from someone else and that person has left with they key and hasn't come back yet. So I can't drive the rig but I'm really keen on it if I can get it.

 

The guy said the truck has no power and it coughs and it splutters when it gets some gas into it but it won't actually die. What do you guys think is the probable cause of this? I'm basically looking to see if it's worth buying and throwing a couple of hundred bucks at it or is the truck dead?

 

My thoughts are that it has a misfire somewhere and probably a new set of plugs and wires may very well cure this little issue. I think it could also be a plugged catalytic converter but I think thats probably thinking to far into it.

 

Can anyone think of a worst case scenario of what this might be? Or perhaps throw up a few suggestions? The rig is in really great shape....here is what I know

 

1994

SE 4x4

Automatic

175,xxx miles.

Located in Minnesota

 

Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.

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If you can get it even cheaper, go for it. Even if the frame has some rot, you can get it fixed, like I am in the process of doing. Also, has it been sitting for a while? Because mine will cough, sputter and have no power but not stall as well. After a while of running its fine. Make sure to ask the owner if it makes any clunking noises in the rear, and take a hammer and screwdriver with you, one or two hits and you'll know how rotted it is.

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MAF, O2, clogged Cat, plugs, fuel filter, gremlins... could be any of these. Fortunately, most are repairable with moderate mechanical skills and a little cash. If the frame will hold up, it's a steal at that price. Maybe drop another couple hundred into it and it'll pay off. Good luck

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Hey guys, this could be my first and last post or it could be the start of your new forum serial poster....lets see eh?

 

The guy is asking $400 for it. But here is the deal. He took a deposit on it from someone else and that person has left with they key and hasn't come back yet.

 

Good Day Blue

 

For starters, I don't know about Minn area and laws... but in Texas if you leave a deposit... Thats it... it belongs to the other guy!!!!!!!!!!! Thats Texas Law... I have no idea about Minn, so you may want to ck that out first...

 

Second, I'm a newbie and just bought a 90 w/314,xxx and in great condition and runs really good... A/C and power stuff works and everything... Its a great Island Truck... the first thing that comes to mind is $400 thats either a steal or the beginning of a nightmare rape of your paycheak...

 

If you got the time and the $$$ to pump into it, go for it!!!! The first thing that came to mind was a tune up like you said... but the second was "Gremlins" it could be lots of things... (I thought "Gremlins" before I read it, but I give credit where credit is due...)

 

But like I said... worry about if he can legally sell it to you with the deposit already given, first... then move on to other things... Good Luck

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Thanks to all the responses!

 

First off...here in MN..He who has the Title has the vehicle! LOL So I'm not worried about that.

 

Much of the work will be done by myself. As for the frame rails, they are a little rusty and I will probably just weld a new piece over the top of them....I need to replace the rear shocks in it anyways.

 

In all honesty no one has brung up anything I haven't really thought of already and that is making me feel more comfortable with the purchase....I just wish I still had my subaru :(

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MN = a lot more rust then you think.. check again and again.

 

otherwise what you're thinking is line with what may be up with it. i surely can't think of anything else.

 

In all honesty, I live in Minnesota...I know how and where to look for rust and I can cope with this! LOL At some point in time the truck has been rust proofed which has helped the cancer cause considerably.

 

Rule no 1 when buying a vehicle in MN.....get underneath and don't come out for half and hour LOL

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IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!111!!!

 

Replaced plugs (pics to come, trust me, they are hilarious)

Replaced Fuel Filter

Replaced rotor cap and dizzy cap

Replaced air filter

 

Now the truck runs like a champ...just need to fix the exhaust leak!

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IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!111!!!

 

Replaced plugs (pics to come, trust me, they are hilarious)

Replaced Fuel Filter

Replaced rotor cap and dizzy cap

Replaced air filter

 

Now the truck runs like a champ...just need to fix the exhaust leak!

 

Be wary of the exhaust... my Pathy came with a newish cat back... but the cat had a crack in the flange... the removal of the cat to install a magnaflow replacement ended up as a nightmare... removing the cat broke the midpipe, which ended up being replaced by a Bosal mid pipe... which also resulted in the requirement of a new o2 sensor... and the replacement of the midpipe ended up with a leaky Y pipe.. unless it was already leaky...

which will end up with the replacement of the headers and Y pipe with a Pacesetter piece...

 

so... much... rust...

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m4k, I kind of figured that the entire exhaust system will just be junk. Thats why I'm picking up to magnaflows today and some lengths of 2.5" stainless steel piping and a good buddy of mine has a box full of mandrel bends.

 

so far...

$350 for truck

$61.10 for fuel filter, air filter, plugs, rotor cap, dizzy cap and an oil change.

 

I'm VERY happy with that.

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First of all... congrats on the truck and repairs. Sounds like a good score :aok:

 

 

Now I am going to touch on that rust thing again ;)

I know you said that you know how and where to look for rust, but do you have a full understanding on just how bad and sometimes non-apparent the rust issues on a 4dr Pathy can be? Just to be on the safe side... nothing wrong with being safe, right? ...give the frame rails in the rear wheel wells (both sides) a couple good solid hits with the a hammer... just to be SURE of what condition they are in. People have had them snap in half before, all the while swearing that they look fine :beer:

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I agree with Redpath, I live in CT and my frame was toast. Nothing a bunch of 1/8" plate, plasma cutter and a Millermatic 250 couldn't fix. Remember to check the floor under the rear seats. Pay special attention to the rear suspension pickup points. Good luck and great find for $400. Oh yeah... I bought mine for $300... :tongue:

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lol, yes guys, I do know how to check for rust and yes there is serious rust in all those places that you mentioned!......I knew about them going into the purchase. It was my bargaining chip. Thats how I got the truck down to $350. Remember it is an SE with all the bells and whistles...I haven't found an option yet that this truck doesn't have and on top of that, they all work.

 

I just got out from spending several hours underneath the truck wwelding up the frame with 1/4" steel. Yes, I'm fully aware that 1/4" is overkill but I had it laying around. Although it was in bad shape on one side and the other side was getting closer to it...I've fully welded it all up including a T'piece to get the suspension mount welded back to the frame. I would almost swear that the rear end is now stronger then stock!

 

My next step is to weld up the bullbar.

similar to this (yes, I've made plenty of these as well (Australians have to learn how to weld bullbars with their eyes cloosed LOL)

3438040.jpg

 

I must get some photos up of the truck for you folks!

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  • 1 year later...
lol, yes guys, I do know how to check for rust and yes there is serious rust in all those places that you mentioned!......I knew about them going into the purchase. It was my bargaining chip. Thats how I got the truck down to $350. Remember it is an SE with all the bells and whistles...I haven't found an option yet that this truck doesn't have and on top of that, they all work.

 

I just got out from spending several hours underneath the truck wwelding up the frame with 1/4" steel. Yes, I'm fully aware that 1/4" is overkill but I had it laying around. Although it was in bad shape on one side and the other side was getting closer to it...I've fully welded it all up including a T'piece to get the suspension mount welded back to the frame. I would almost swear that the rear end is now stronger then stock!

 

My next step is to weld up the bullbar.

similar to this (yes, I've made plenty of these as well (Australians have to learn how to weld bullbars with their eyes cloosed LOL)

 

I must get some photos up of the truck for you folks!

Do you have any photos of the frame repair

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