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My Short Ram Air Intake Configuration (1996 Pathfinder)


brerben
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Here are pictures of my new air intake setup in my 1996 Pathfinder. What I first did was remove the bendable rubber section of the tubing (seen in the bottom center portion of the "Before" picture). In its place I connected the MAF sensor section using a gray silicone coupler. Next, I bolted an adaptor (found at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc) onto the MAF sensor. Finally, using another coupler I connected the air filter onto the adaptor. Mine happens to be a Weapon-R filter, but you can use a K&N or whatever you want.

 

Also, regarding the small vacuum hose that plugs into the side of the airbox: I simply went to Pep Boys, bought an in-line air filter and stuck the hose into that, then zip-tied it to the carbon canister (it's the small white mini-filter near the top center portion of the "After" picture).

 

Before:

bwy1186624679z.jpg

 

After:

opt1186624720i.JPG

 

Is this system any good? Unfortunately, not one intake manufacturer makes intake systems for a 1996 Pathfinder, so short of having something custom built I had to use what I had. Weapon-R says they make intake systems for my car, but when I ordered mine and it came in the mail, I found out the POS they call an air intake didn't even fit!!! I still was able to use the silicone couplers, MAF sensor adaptor and the filter from them though.

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I think it looks good. I did something similar but I used a K&N filter and I just left the hose unconnected. I tried plugging it off but the engine started to run a little rough so I just left it as-is. Then I made myself a redneck-enginered box to try to keep out some hot ambien air from the motor.

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how close is the bottom of the filter to the hole in the fender (where the old air box got cold air) if its really close might want to move it higher or further away, seams like there a few who have had some probs with water crossing and hydro-locking their engine

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Change out the tubing up to the throttle body. The stock one is pretty restrictive. You can get pretty creative with those pep boys parts.

 

Ep892.jpg

 

yeah i have some extra tubing but the stock one is still pretty much the same diameter, and lets the same amount of air through. if I replaced the stock tubing with aftermarket it wouldn't make a difference

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yeah i have some extra tubing but the stock one is still pretty much the same diameter, and lets the same amount of air through. if I replaced the stock tubing with aftermarket it wouldn't make a difference

 

It should be working pretty good then. The only issue I had when mine was set up like yours was it would get wet in heavy rain through the hood gap. A split hose on the edge like mine will usually seal it off there. If you still have an issue you could get a K@N drycharger.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Anybody put a Throttle Body Spacer on yet ? I'm wondering if they really work.

Somebody have some experience ?

 

No they don't work.

 

I've had a JWT popcharger and am pretty happy with it. It does have a little port for you to hook up the little vacuum hose to that you disconnect from the stock airbox. I've been wanting to for a long time to find a straight intake pipe to replace the lame "S" tube that is restrictive.

 

A straight intake pipe setup like this would be nice.

 

312489_8_full.jpg

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Anybody put a Throttle Body Spacer on yet ? I'm wondering if they really work.

Somebody have some experience ?

 

Below is a pretty objective post copied from another board with regards to the spacer on a VQ35 powered 04.5 G35 AT sedan:

 

Initially it looked like the spacer produced very good gains... the baseline pulls averaged roughly 254 hp and 250 trq... the first series of pulls after spacer install where 265-267 on avg... but when we continued doing pulls it dropped back to 254-257 consistently... The theory was that when we installed the spacer, the negative terminal on the battery was disconnected (this is to prevent throttle position errors and erratic idle, it has happened to me before)... so in addition to preventing the idle/throttle issues, disconnecting the battery also reset the ECU. The ECU on these cars is very temperamental specifically in the sedan and especially the AT sedan (which is what I have)... Infiniti/Nissan has some "granny" modes set into the ECU that keep it from staying in it's "aggressive" mode... so when the ECU was reset the performance mode was showing great results... but after a few pulls the ECU reverted to it's conservative function. This was tested with and without the TB spacer. When we took the spacer out (having disconnected the battery and everything else the exact same way we installed) the first several pulls were also in the 264-267 range. And just like with the spacer on, the ECU eventually reverted to it's conservative mod and started pulling 255 avg.

 

So the bottom line was we really didn't see any gains from the spacer, but there weren't any loses either.

 

I called Shawn Church to ask about how he installed and if his gains could have possibly been the ECU as well... Shawn did not disconnect the battery during his install so his gains were entirely different. He saw increases in specific areas of the RMP range whereas we saw the entire band shift up. This is consistent with the ECU creating changes on my car, but in Shawn's case it leans more towards the spacer helping. Shawn is an MT coupe. There has been a great deal of discussion regarding differences between coupe, sedan, 350Z as well as MT vs AT... it is hypothesized that the ECU stays in an aggressive/performance mode for the coupes and Z much more so than the sedan... theory is because the sedan is more "luxury" and coupe and Z are more "sporty".

 

So for a coupe or Z, specifically MT - based on Shawn's testing the spacer seems to show good gains... for the sedan (at least my AT sedan) we weren't able to see the same thing.

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These are some pics when I first did my intake. Now, I have a K&N, the hoses fit better, and the heat shield is more than a piece of sheet metal. All I used was one of those "spectre" ricer intake kits, a hacksaw, some of that rubber tubing, and some creativity. Very easy to do and it sounds awesome. I noticed a very meager 1-2 mpg increase and a little more pull.

 

P1010001.jpg

P1010002.jpg

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I like the straight intake pipe setup, i am looking 4 a straight pipe 2. Is it really necessary we put

those 2 hoses onto that pipe or can i put those small (breather) air filters on to it ? Its easier

to find a straight pipe without those openings.

 

At the moment I've cut open the closed space in the bumper under the signal light, took away the

standard air intake box and replaced it with a self made 'cold airflow pipe' coming from the front

of the bumper and going direct in to the opening of the stock airbox. With a K&N filter.

Edited by Caribbeandude
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Is it really necessary we put those 2 hoses onto that pipe or can i put those small (breather) air filters on to it ?

 

Yes, it really is necessary to put those 2 hoses onto the intake. They require vacuum from the intake to operate properly. Simply capping them with filters and leaving them unattached won't work, since they wouldn't have vacuum.

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I like the straight intake pipe setup, i am looking 4 a straight pipe 2. Is it really necessary we put

those 2 hoses onto that pipe or can i put those small (breather) air filters on to it ? Its easier

to find a straight pipe without those openings.

 

At the moment I've cut open the closed space in the bumper under the signal light, took away the

standard air intake box and replaced it with a self made 'cold airflow pipe' coming from the front

of the bumper and going direct in to the opening of the stock airbox. With a K&N filter.

 

Make sure the carbon canister isn't blocking the way for a straight intake pipe. I wasn't able to do a straight pipe (although I wanted to) because of the canister.

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Make sure the carbon canister isn't blocking the way for a straight intake pipe. I wasn't able to do a straight pipe (although I wanted to) because of the canister.

 

Carbon canister is only present in the engine bay on 96 models. 97 and up have the canister behind the left rear wheel.

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What is? That the 96's isn't behind the wheel well, or that the 97-04 aren't in the engine bay?

 

it's gay because 1996 is the only year that has the canister right there in the way of the intake. Weapon-R sent me a straight intake pipe and said it would fit my 1996 pathfinder, but since the canister is in the way, it didn't fit.

 

You can make new brackets for the canister so its semi out of the way..

 

yeah I thought of that, but the only spaces in the engine bay where I could have relocated it were negligible...plus I didnt' feel like buying all new hoses, fabricating some brackets, blah blah blah

 

 

If anyone wants a Weapon-R SRI for real cheap, Let me know!!!

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Yes, it really is necessary to put those 2 hoses onto the intake. They require vacuum from the intake to operate properly. Simply capping them with filters and leaving them unattached won't work, since they wouldn't have vacuum.

 

So what exactly do these hoses do?

If it is in fact the same two hosees I am thinking of then when I got my K&N intake I simply tucked them on the side of the fender not capped or anything. I have had no ill effects yet.

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So what exactly do these hoses do?

If it is in fact the same two hosees I am thinking of then when I got my K&N intake I simply tucked them on the side of the fender not capped or anything. I have had no ill effects yet.

 

the intake sucks exhaust gas vapors from those 2 larger hoses back into the engine and burns it to reduce emissions. the engine needs those two hoses to be plugged into the intake in order for it to run correctly.

 

if your engine does not sputter or cut off when you don't have them connected, i would guess that either you are talking about the wrong hoses or something is wrong with your car...

Edited by brerben
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