brerben

how convenient! yup, I have the 1st, 2nd and 4th symptoms listed on that site. I've had a leak of some sort for the last few months in the front of the vehicle around the steering rack, and I started having the symptoms when that leak began.

It usually slides itself 45 degrees counter-clockwise, then as I drive throughout the day it goes back to center (more or less, sometimes 10 degrees to the right). So to answer your question, it is mostly between 45 degrees counter clockwise and centered up. I will have all this checked when I bring it to the shop. Of the things you mentioned (tie-rods, ball joints, and A-arm bushings), which one would be the easiest/cheapest to replace? It makes a "clunking" noise if I turn the steering wheel sharp either way while idling; the noise seems to come from right under the engine... I have already replaced my stock rubber trailing arm bushings with polyurethane ones from 4x4parts.com, and I do not have the "rear-end steering" problem any more (a.k.a. the "death wobble"), if that's what you're talking about. yea mine looks so funny sometimes it's scary...lol

This is the strangest problem I've had with my Pathfinder. I start driving in my Pathfinder down the road, and my steering wheel is nice and centered (as opposed to mis-aligned vehicles where the steering wheel is turned several degrees to the left or right). However, everything changes when I come to a stop light. When the light turns green and I start going, all of a sudden the steering wheel is horribly off-centered (I have to turn the steering wheel as much as 45 degrees to the left or right just to drive straight). There is no steering resistance when this happens; it's simply as if the steering wheel was taken off, turned 45 degrees, and put back on. I had an alignment done a few months ago. What could this be??? Perhaps something wrong with the power steering system?

Crutchfield.com Car Speaker Size Finder: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/car/mycar.aspx?& enter your type of car and it'll tell you all the type of stuff that will fit in it, including sizes

I would assume it is, as long as the #6 plug is in the same place as it was in the earlier model Pathys

I'm no expert but I would say that with 150k miles, your control arm and/or sway bar bushings are worn out and need to be replaced. They come rubber as stock, but when you replace them, use polyurethane bushings as they are more durable and tighter. Here are two links to learn more about what I'm talking about: Fitting Polyurethane Bushings: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...241&hl=poly Project Pathfinder - Suspension (Cont'd): http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/december03/pathfinder/

Yes, all four. Three of the rims have a little corrosion on the outer faces, but for the price they are in great shape.

I would take $25+shipping for it, but I am still debating on whether or not I'm going to sell them as a set of all four ($90+shipping). Would you care to buy all four?

whatever you want. sorry if I mislead you though lol, i'm not giving them away for free. I quoted the cost of shipping of just one rim and it is around $45 ($41.30 CAN). the cost of shipping for all four is around $120 (110.00 CAN). of course this is from Alabama to Alberta. make an offer!

i have a set of four, but if you're willing to pay for shipping....

Don't you think it's a little unprofessional of AC to totally re-name a product like that? I'm guessing it's to keep people from searching for the same thing at a lower price elsewhere. If this is true, could it also be possible that AC's 2" lift springs are sold elsewhere? Or does AC actually fabricate the springs themselves?

well, you should have bought the rims first, then the tires. but since you bought the tires first, you need to go to at least two tire shops and have them tell you that they will indeed fit on the rims.

I just recently ordered a set of four Rancho RSX17000 series shocks for my 1996 Pathfinder 4x4. I will also soon be ordering a set of 2" lift coil springs from AC. The shocks I ordered have the same extendable and collapseable specifications as stock. After I get the 2" lift, however, I understand that the shocks will be extended (more or less) an extra 2 inches, causing them to top out more often going over bumps. I remember reading in the sticky thread "So you want to lift your pathfinder" that you should expect your shocks to top if you get a lift and that you shouldn't worry about it. However, I wanted to verify this with you guys that this will indeed not damage my shocks ( they weren't very cheap). So, what are your opinions?

the problem is not because she hits the gas too early, it's because you let your gf drive it in the first place

If your axle isn't showing all the way through, reach behind the wheel and grab hold of the CV axle and push it out. No need to move the steering wheel

There is a tool under the rear bench seat in a black leather bag in all Pathfinders that is designed to remove the #6 plug. It takes 5 min. with the tool to remove the plug.

The pipe I am selling is the piping to the Weapon-R "Secret Weapon" intake. It is NOT a "Dragon" intake (which are about $80 cheaper). The model number to the piping I am selling is 304-118-101. So if AC has this particular model number, then yes, it is the one sold on AC's site.

My pair of 6.5" Infinity speakers fit beautifully in the front of my Pathy.

OK, here are the pics (sorry it took so long). This fits 1997-2000 Pathfinders (or any Pathfinder without the carbon canister in the engine bay). I originally bought this from Weapon-R for $230, but that price also included the filter, couplers, hoses, etc (here is the URL for what I originally bought: http://weapon-r.com/english/index.php?main...roducts_id=5294 ). So my grand total for the pipe, hoses and 2 couplers will be: $55.00 USD PICTURES: With the hoses connected: Other pics (without the hoses):

the intake sucks exhaust gas vapors from those 2 larger hoses back into the engine and burns it to reduce emissions. the engine needs those two hoses to be plugged into the intake in order for it to run correctly. if your engine does not sputter or cut off when you don't have them connected, i would guess that either you are talking about the wrong hoses or something is wrong with your car...

Will do. It will have to be this Monday though as I'm going up to Auburn this weekend.

it's gay because 1996 is the only year that has the canister right there in the way of the intake. Weapon-R sent me a straight intake pipe and said it would fit my 1996 pathfinder, but since the canister is in the way, it didn't fit. yeah I thought of that, but the only spaces in the engine bay where I could have relocated it were negligible...plus I didnt' feel like buying all new hoses, fabricating some brackets, blah blah blah If anyone wants a Weapon-R SRI for real cheap, Let me know!!!

hmm that's pretty gay.

Make sure the carbon canister isn't blocking the way for a straight intake pipe. I wasn't able to do a straight pipe (although I wanted to) because of the canister.

so performance cams such as what xplorx4 put in will hurt gas mileage as well as emissions?