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Trail Master 4" Susp Lifts... older ones!


Slick
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So, as y'all (or most of you) know, Kings 4" TM susp lift has been on there for over 7 years.. so it's probably one of the first ever lifts they made.

As some of you know, after installing my Cooper STT's, no matter what we tried at the alignment shop, we could not get the camber right... even after maximum spacing out. The LCA is what is causing the issue. it is mounted about 1/8th to 1/2" too "close" to the actual tire/wheel, so pushes "out" on the lower end of the wheel, causing the bad camber issue.

I wrote to TM asking if there were any mods or upgrades to the lifts since King got his.

Here is my email to them.. and their reply:

 

Hello, I bought my 91 Nissan Pathfinder SE last year, (I also have a 92) already set up with a 4" TM susp lift and a 3" BL on it..... the PO had the truck for 6 years, and had purchased it with the lifts already on it. (the lift was definitely done with no expense spared) So I am assuming the lifts are over 7 years old.

 

My problem.... I finally bought new tires for the truck, and took it to a trustworthy alignment shop, watched everything he did, and he pointed out, that even with the camber with maximum spacing, the camber is still off. (even tried dropping the t-bars a bit to help) You can see where the LCA is "pushing out" at the bottom of the wheel/tire, even with max spacing, and the camber is still off. We decided if the bracket the LCA attaches too had a bolt hole 1/4" to 1/2" further "towards the other side of the truck", the camber adjustment would not be an issue.

 

We set the toe in a bit more to help the camber problem, but I was wondering if this was a teething issue on these lifts in the beginning, and if there is another LCA mount bracket in production that has modified mounting holes? I have attached a picture of the lift, and you can see the camber is still off, not able to be adjusted/spaced anymore.

 

My question, has the lift/lca mount bracket been modified in recent years? if so, can I purchase them? I would hate to roast a new set of tires because the camber can't be corrected fully.

 

Thank you for your time. ~Rachel Kennedy~

 

sorry about the pic. i went wheelin sa soon as i got the alignment done! :)

 

and their prompt reply to me:

 

Rachel, It may be possible the mounts were changed over time. Trailmaster has been sold to us, since that kit was originally installed. I would not have access to the old drawings, so I cannot state with certainty that there has been any change. The part number for the brackets is NP43LA. Given the relatively small change required in location, it may be possible to elongate the holes in the brackets to allow some relocation and thus allow additional adjustments.

 

-Dale Hudson-

Edited by Slick
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The drawing for a product the company maked did not go with then the company was sold as a whole? :huh:

:blink: that was my first thought too.. and WHO is "us" and WHO is "dale hudson"???

 

i think my only option is to maybe buy new LCA's and brackets and PRAY they WERE modified)..... being as the bushings are shot in them anyway.... :rolleyes:

Edited by Slick
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"us" would be Performance Automotive Group, Inc

 

http://www.p-a-g.net/

 

Also owner of Performance Accesories... the makers of one on the BL's availible for WD21's (TM is the other... prolly the same kit now days lol)

sssh hm.. then i can pretty much assume the BL is theirs too.

vurry interesting.. well, i am not uber sure i want to go a drillin on that bracket... that would possibly compromise the integrity and strength of the bracket....

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Hmm, control arm; probably not... Bracket, sure!! Lets start with some pictures, Slick. This might be something I can do for you. I'd rather take a look to see if it can be readily done 'professionally' rather than rat tail fileing the bolt holes... :rolleyes:

 

B

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Hmm, control arm; probably not... Bracket, sure!! Lets start with some pictures, Slick. This might be something I can do for you. I'd rather take a look to see if it can be readily done 'professionally' rather than rat tail fileing the bolt holes... :rolleyes:

 

B

:PP...

 

You say rat tail filing as if it is a bad thing?

 

OK, how about... uhm, :unsure:

 

 

Selective offset material removal using linear cutting manual machining tool?

:hide:

 

The hole moving to correct camber on my RC control arms is coming out very clean and sano, TYVM! I used care in the SOMRULCMMT process so it resulted in a very neat oval hole. Careful backfilling with the MIG and then a bit more filing and grinding of the top and bottom and I now have quite round holes in better places. Took about 30-60 minutes per CA.

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Slick im wondering if you put some new UCA on there if it would correct the challenge???

 

B, Martin, you guys could copy the rear Spring Spacers... Easy.... Have Aaron pull one of his for a Pattern???

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Slick im wondering if you put some new UCA on there if it would correct the challenge???

 

B, Martin, you guys could copy the rear Spring Spacers... Easy.... Have Aaron pull one of his for a Pattern???

well, dale hudson gave me the "replacement p/n" for the bracket...... if imma go there, i will change the lca's too. cuz one of the bushings is shot anyhoo.... i am looking for a cheap fix right now to save the STT's :sniff:

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park king, drive mini :)

umm.. that's the situation right now cuz he kinda broke.... :sniff: he's constipated right now and i haven't had time to fix heem yet

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You say rat tail filing as if it is a bad thing?

OK, how about... uhm, 

 

Selective offset material removal using linear cutting manual machining tool?

 

LOL, you are obviously SOMRULCMMTing very nicely Martin, but for most people it would be more like VVSRDFWEROHIWD...

 

"Vigorously, violently and somewhat randomly dulling a file while eggshaping and rounding out a hole in the wrong direction."

 

The back filling is nice, but filing ? You must admit simply plunging with an end mill or boring head would do a FAR nicer job, and in about 5 minutes... :shrug:

 

 

Ok Slick, that piece is part # PN43LA and I could probably make one, but I would need to see it. It's hard to tell from the picture and that I haven't looked under my truck yet, but couldn't you weld plates over the top halves of the brackets and then redrill the holes, either off to the side you need or clocked so you could rotate the bracket (clockwise in the picture you posted)? That would be the simplest thing to do and nice and strong. How much do you need to move the mounting for the LCA?

 

B

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:D

Yeah, filling the holes in entirely and then re-drilling/milling would be much cleaner.

 

But, I do not know exactly where they needed to be to get camber exactly right. I could do some measurements and calculations to figure out exactly how much, but after 10 hours of intense thinking at work, I have been electing to do as little as possible at home! I have just been filing 1/16" at a time, slipping a couple bolts in, and re-measuring the camber. It is so easy with my new gauge. When perfect, weld to backfill the holes and then do the final hole shaping. I find the mechanical tinkering to be VERY pleasurable after a hard day pushing pencils, keyboards, and the boundaries of technology. :crazy:

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Ordering the new brackets and replacing new uca seems to be the smart move

;) that's my plan. i'll get prices when i know i can afford to do the job.

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Guest SuperSon
I had sent them an email asking about getting a set of their spring spacers... no reply :confused:

This people knows that we need what they have and they will take their sweet frikin time responding to emails or they dont have it :shrug:

 

Thats why its better to just deal with little machine shops and have one made.It cant be that difficult to cut a round doughnut out ot 6063 or 7075 ally.

 

If I can get specs (DWG/DXF file)on this stuff I am willing to do the leg work on going at the community college machine shop here and see if they can make one.I had an RC part made by them before and I just paid for the material used.

 

 

 

 

c1.jpg

c2.jpg

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