ticker Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 (edited) Let me give you the backstory real quick. Last summer I stopped at a rest stop and the pathy wouldn't start again. Eventually I figured out that the wireing harness that connects to the barttery was rotted out. This is the harness that connects to the starter the interior electrics and some other good stuff. I cobbled it back together and have had no problem since. Until now.... Tonight it did the same thing and after fiddling with the wires I got it started and made it home. One of the other wires was hanging on by a few strands so I clipped them all and fashioned a new wiring harness by taking out the tabs on the harness(cannot find this size tab at any autoparts store) and re using them to re-wire with new wire. This is the harness that has two wires coming out one slot and one coming out the other. All three connect to the battery together. Alas still no luck-So here it is Symptoms-won't start-no crank at all, no clicking nada, but electric works fine(ie radio, lights etc). *If I turn the key a few times it will sometimes give a weak turnover and then start up. *It will also start right up with a jump. Once started (this is the new wierd part) the engine will run at a low idle and the interior lights and head lights will be dim. Then the engine will dog a little bit and the lights will get brighter(this is how they normally look), then it will go back to the dim low idle and it keeps repeating this cycle. any ideas? Thanks in advance I'm truly stumped on this one. Edited April 11, 2007 by ticker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 bad connection at the batt. I cut all my fusable links out and connected all 8 or so of the wires to a 10gauge wire and then ran that to my batt. works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 ^^I did pretty much the same thing. Mine are all connected to a tab on a fuse block I installed under the hood. Pesky things, those fusible links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 loose ground wire connection somewhere..... had a first generation RX-7 that had those symptoms after getting a new transmission installed..... mechanic forgot to tighten the ground strap bolt (to the engine block) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Yeah, sounds like the fusable links giving you fits. Also (in addition) could be the starter solenoid is going out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I think I paid $14(usd) a few years ago for a replacement F-link harness... If you do i recommend that you call around local dealer, as i have found the prices to differ by a lot on some items. Or you could do as mentioned above and replace it with a fuse block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 BTW, Nissan North usually has the best prices in my experiance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 I guess I'll start with getting a new harness at nissan becuase at lunch today I re-did all of the wiring that I did in the dark last night and it seemed fine after that. Started right up first time every time. As I'm almost home tonight I notice that the radio loses power when ever I put my foot on the brakes or put the turn signal on. WTF does this still sound like the fuseable links. There was also a build up of newly formed corrosion on the + teminal this evening. It also just started raining and my garage is full of other broken cars so I'm giving up for the night. Thanks for the sugestions, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 There was also a build up of newly formed corrosion on the + teminal this evening. Get a set of those little red and green post washers. They work for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 (edited) Get a set of those little red and green post washers. They work for me. thanks, that's an easy fix for that issue. On the way to work today the radio cut out and then the tach wouldn't read coupled with sluggish acceleration and sputtering. I'm about to call the Nissan dealer so hopefully they will know which harness I'm talking about. I've also been I've been thinking about the possibility of a loose ground wire somewhere else. I just had some pretty sloppy work done at meineke, is there a ground wire down below that they might have forgotten to tighten or damaged? I looked around but didn't see anything obviously hanging out, so a specific location as to where to look would be appreciated if this might be a possibility. 95 if that makes a difference. :bow: -T update-just talked to Nissan North-super nice guys, they have to order the part so it won't be here until friday morning but at $13.76 if it works will be a heck of a deal! Thanks for the tip Ryan :cool2: Edited April 4, 2007 by ticker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 You're welcome. They aren't "cheap" being a dealer, but they are almost always cheaper than the other dealers in town. Not to mention the guys at the parts desk never act like you are wasting there time to look up a part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Have you checked your battery's voltage and the alternator's output? That's the first step in this problem...get a voltmeter and use it. Or go to an auto parts store and ask them to test it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 Have not checked that. The reason I am leaning towards the f link is that its disintigration was the catalyst for these problems. I pick up the new one tomorrow. Hopefully that will render the pathfinder driveable at which point I'll check out the batt and alt. Pathfinder stalled out on the way home last night and my wife had to come give me a jump so I'm leaving it home today and driving my father in laws car. His Car which some as*wipe broke the window out of and destroyed the radio in an attempt to steal the TAPE DECK so I'll be heading to work in the snow with no radio and no window. I hope to report good things tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I cut my connector out and just soldered in replacement wires for my FL. My battery had leaked and dissolved it. read here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Have you checked your battery's voltage and the alternator's output? That's the first step in this problem...get a voltmeter and use it. Or go to an auto parts store and ask them to test it for you. I agree with this. You are still getting jump starts. See what your battery is holding and also what your alt is putting out. A nearly drained battery that doesn't hold a charge will cause a stall out once brakes are applied or any other electrical draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 7, 2007 Author Share Posted April 7, 2007 (edited) I agree with this. You are still getting jump starts. See what your battery is holding and also what your alt is putting out. A nearly drained battery that doesn't hold a charge will cause a stall out once brakes are applied or any other electrical draw. The good news is the dealer had the new f-link and it was only $10.70. The bad news is that nothings changed. Had to jump start it and then none of the electrics were working, turned the head lights on and engine cut out. Is it possible that the bad connection at the f-link caused the drain on the battery? I'm hoping that a new battery will solve the problem. At this point I can't even drive down to the auto store to have it tested, or the alternator for that matter. We have always used "die hard" batteries in my family so I'm leaning that way. There is also an "interstate" dealer across from sears so I'm open to suggestions as to one being better than the other, maybe its all personal preference though. Thanks for the help so far. -T I was sitting here thinking about batteries and just wanted to share that my wifes toyota had a panasonic battery in it that lasted 9 years before it gave up. Edited April 7, 2007 by ticker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 My Optima red-top has been in five different vehicles over more than 10 years and it still starts the Pathy perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 8, 2007 Author Share Posted April 8, 2007 I had my battery tested and it turns out it had a bad cell. After doing some research and searching around, including this site, I decided to go with a duralast battery from auto zone. If i had more money I probably would have considered the optima given its track record and abilities, but seeing how the duralast came out at the top of the consumer reports list and it has a two year free replacement and a 7 year total pro-rated warranty. It also only cost about $45 so I feel pretty good about it. THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED ME SOLVE THIS ISSUE :bow: your advice and support is truly appreciated- -T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 My Optima red-top has been in five different vehicles over more than 10 years and it still starts the Pathy perfectly. I got a red-top too, but I hear they aren't what they used to be. Though there are other brands of "gel-cell" batterie on the market, I think Orbital is one of the better available. If you never plan to use a lot of equipment (lights, winches, etc.) or go places you think you might roll the vehicle, a standard battery is probably the best choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 I agree with this. You are still getting jump starts. See what your battery is holding and also what your alt is putting out. A nearly drained battery that doesn't hold a charge will cause a stall out once brakes are applied or any other electrical draw. I remember when that happend to me. Boy, its embarassing when your friends say your such a bad driver that you can stall an automatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 ARGHHH-Its not the battery!!!!!!!! The same thing is happening again, replaced both the battery and the F-link so I'm assuming now its got to be the alternator. The pathy ran fine since Saturday with the new battery until today when the same symptoms begain all over. Now I'm wondering if I really had a bad cell in the old battery. I guess I'll have to do the alternator next. This sucks I was totally about to buy new shocks. -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 autozone sells a alternator for the 95. http://www.autozone.com/R,APP178484/vehicl...oductDetail.htm I don't have the time to mess around with the junkyard. Does this sound like good price? $144 and change. thanks -T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 I don't know why they cost so much less but check out this HowTo: how to install a 90 amp alternator, Direct bolt on!, look up an alternator for a Maxima within the year range in the how to. Then decide if you want to do a stock replacement or an upgrade replacement You may or may not be able to get them to except your Pathy's alt as a core for the Max alt. Depends on them... and if they know it sssh If you stick with the stock alt, then take a look at http://www.advanceautoparts.com/ they have a lower online price, you may be able to print out the page and get them to honor that price at the store. I have no problem doing this with Schucks Auto Parts. which is also a member of the PartsAmerica.com group. But Advance operates seemingly seperate from CSK (Checker/Schucks/Kragen) so I am not sure if they will or not. If you have any of CSK stores near you (partsamerica.com did not list any) then there is that option as well. There is also the Quest Alt. option but those are not bolt on in WD21's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 Thanks, I saw that write up and it makes me feel better about the actual labor of swapping out the alternator. I'm a complete spaz there's an advance auto right around the corner I totally forgot to check that. Prices seem to be about the same. I found a junkyard around the corner from work that actually has 2 pathy alternators but no maximas right now. As I really don't want to mess around with a quest alternator, Id rather go bolt on this time around. Assuming the used alt is good to go I think I'm going to go for the $60 one from the JY. The upgrade would be cool but I'm about to lose the spare car we have on friday so I'm going to have to get what I can before then. thanks as always for the help :bow: p.s. I'm still a little confused about the whole battery having a bad cell. Could I have had the perfect gremlin trifecta? bad f-link, bad battery and bad alternator? dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Have you checked all your grounds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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