fondo Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 I'm replacing my timing belt and had a few questions. First off, is it best to take the spark plugs out when doing this belt (so you can tell if anything is interfering when putting on the new belt). Also, when I was turning the crankshaft (with old belt still on) I noticed that the tension changed, I mean I was able to turn the belt 45 degrees or so at one point in the rotation and 90 degreed at another point. I haven't taken the lower t-belt cover off yet so I don't know what the condition of the tensioner assembly is. I need to get another puller (or some smaller bolts for the one I got at autozone) to get the harmonic balancer off. Sorry for the ongoing posts on this topic I just had a few questions that deal with my particular situation. Thanks for all the feedback in advance!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 You don't need to take all the plugs out, it'll just make it easier to turn the crankshaft. What you were fighting before was the compression stroke. Removing the plugs will eliminate that. But if something is going to interfere it'll be the valves, not the plugs anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 no need to take the plugs out, unless you plan on changing them, or only take plug #1 out if yer gunna use the "screwdriver for TDC" method. as far as the motor not turning 180 degrees perfectly smooth. i have 3 motors and none of them do. don't worry. make sure you have everything you need to do the job, take your time, and do your h2o pump and t'stat while yer in there. also, check the upper bypass hose ( itsy bitsy hose hiding behind the upper timing cover)... good luck! -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 do cam seals too...B4 pulling the old belt its good to match up all the timing marks (the 2 cams) and take a punch nad make the mark for the crank (i have seen 4 pathy engines now and none had the crank timing mark stamped...and i always count as listed in the FSM to make sure nothing is out of whack... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 check the upper bypass hose ( itsy bitsy hose hiding behind the upper timing cover)... Learned something new again Thanks for pointing that out slick.I dont think that this has been mentioned before on all the tbelt how-to's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Learned something new again Thanks for pointing that out slick.I dont think that this has been mentioned before on all the tbelt how-to's That is an important "minor detail"... that hose can be a real PITA and doing it when your already in there for the timing belt just makes it easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 That is an important "minor detail"... that hose can be a real PITA and doing it when your already in there for the timing belt just makes it easier I havent got a clue to what that hose does. To make things easy for me to locate that hose can you please tell me what size it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 The resistance you feel is compression and the valves. With the belt on, when you turn the crank, you are turning the cams which are opening valves. At some point, the closing valves will push you along rather than resist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gxl90rx7 Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 (edited) I just changed my t-belt last weekend. mine had no mark on the crank gear either, what i did is count the ribs on the belt. 40 between the marks on the 2 cam gears, 43 between the marks on the driver's side cam gear and the crank gear. The other problem i had was tightening the crank bolt. pretty much impossible to do on an auto without a impact gun, ill probably drive it to a shop to get fully tightened. an easy way to loosen it is put a breaker bar on it, tie it up somewhere next to the frame on the pass side, and give the engine a quick turn with the starter, lol. kinda risky if the breaker bar gets loose, but it gets the job done if you do it right, and is a hell of a lot easier than taking the starter off and jamming the flywheel. and i also found out my t-stat housing is stripped out on the far bolt-hole, so its impossible to tighten down all the way. I RTV'd it to hell and back, hopefully it wont leak Edited February 12, 2007 by gxl90rx7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 The other problem i had was tightening the crank bolt. pretty much impossible to do on an auto without a impact gun, chock the wheels...put it in gear place socket on crank bolt...place breaker bar on crank bolt...beat the ever living @!*% out of breaker bar...this is how i have always gotten mine on and off (although mines a manual) just be careful not to hit anything else...i guess u can call it a manual impact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 Harbor Freight Tools. $8.99. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 For Removing and replacing the Crank bolt on a Auto: Remove Starter(2 bolts) Slide it forward about 2", slip a larger flat tip screw drive into one of the teeth on the Flywheel. Turn slowly until Flywheel Locks.... Brake that baby loose, or Torque to MFG Specs.... Remove Screw Driver and re-install Starter... Take 5 min.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 And again, NEVER use an impact gun to tighten bolts!!! That's how they snap!! Strap wrench, or screwdriver in flywheel for auto. In gear for manual. Also, another note, if you have a breaker bar, an easy way to remove the bolt is to put the breaker bar on the bolt, and have the handle under the frame. Take the coil wire off the distributor, and bump the starter. Usually one quick bump is enough to get the bolt loosened up. Make sure you get that wire off the dizzy though......or you could end up starting your truck, possibly with no bolt holding your harmonic balancer on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 (edited) I havent got a clue to what that hose does. To make things easy for me to locate that hose can you please tell me what size it is? it's this little fawker. makes big mess @ 65mph when it blows. really. xheck for any wear. replace. $6 @ kragens or autozone. cut to fit. put bottom on first, then top. don't fergetcher clamps. voila. Edited February 13, 2007 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 NEVER use an impact gun to tighten bolts!!! u can never say never...if you know u're gun and what PSI does what torque it can be done...and in manufacturing they have what i believe is called torque guns so it tightens smoothly until it his the torque and cuts off... but there are some things i use my impact on my such as the T-bar bolts or other bolts that are longer than 1" just to get them snug then go back and hit with the torque wrench to make sure they're to the right spec... i dont think its even possible to get an impact in for that bolt (unless it was 1 of those mini guns and i dont know that they would have enough ass to tighten it completely)...but i've never tried it always use my breaker with hammer and have no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 it's this little fawker. makes big mess @ 65mph when it blows. really. xheck for any wear. replace. $6 @ kragens or autozone. cut to fit. put bottom on first, then top. don't fergetcher clamps. voila. Thanks slick.I sure appreciate it you taking the time to do that :bow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I think with the radiator off you should be able to get an impact wrench in there like this one i dont think its even possible to get an impact in for that bolt (unless it was 1 of those mini guns and i dont know that they would have enough ass to tighten it completely)...but i've never tried it always use my breaker with hammer and have no issues I think with the radiator off you should be able to get an impact wrench in there like this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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